Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Just fact that it fired up confirms flywheel triggers, pickup-coils, igniter, ignition-coils, coil-wires and spark plugs are working. So no need to test or measure any of those.
Remaining concerns are:
- VRM working to charge battery?
- determine petcock status?
- carb adjustments correct?
- why is it not idling on its own?
State of battery charging is biggest issue as it would be wasted money to buy yet another one. So, keep trickle charger connected full-time 24/7 until we confirm VRM status. Fully-charged battery should be 13.8v on charger. Keep testing battery regularly.
To confirm VRM and petcock status, we need bike to idle on its own, so temporarily adjust idle screw to keep bike running so you have hands free to use multimeter to measure voltage while bike is running. So we’ve got 2 of three tests done:
1. Measure voltage at rest before cranking = 12.6v, which is good, fully-charged rested battery
2. Measure voltage while cranking = 11.5v which is also good, battery has good reserve capacity
3. Measure battery voltage every 2-minutes with bike running. Need to get bike running on its own to determine if battery is being charged. This test is most critical and needs to be done before anything else or we’ll drain new battery and destroy it.
If you don’t want to adjust idle screw, install cruise-control that locks throttle in open position. Or use velcro strap to lock on throttle in open position for at least 5-minutes so bike can fully warm up.
One purpose is to test VRM and other to blow out all Seafoam and accumulated junk in exhaust. Then we can determine if that smoke is coming from junk in exhaust or from inside engine. Not uncommon for bikes that’s been sitting to smoke when finally revived. If
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So fact that it fired up on its first time, but doesn’t after that means all that is working? Even ignition coil? I’m not sure how that works I’m sure it wouldn’t start at all if that was broke.
To confirm the vrm and petcock status we need it to idle on its own, okay so basically next time I get it started.. mess with the idle screw while holding the throttle? If I let go of the throttle the bike dies and I have to have it on like half or full choke to get it started.
When it was running I even had to had the choke on and it would idle between 4-5 even if I tried adjusting screw and choke, any less than 4 it would just stsrt turning off if I didn’t give it gas.
1. Good
2. Good
3. Okay next time I get bike started I could hold throttle and make sure bike doesn’t die while trying to adjust idle screw and choke? And then have someone else use multimeter and test battery every two minutes ? Or does the bike need to be running on its it own So we can test if it charges the battery? Like you said above. Or can I do the method I just said?
Or should I try and get it to idle by itself by adjusting the screw when it gets started on its first time or next time.. and choke? Or just leave full choke on?
Also 3. Basically what is the vrm? I know I said the bike was running and starting up and over like normal before I pulled carbs and cleaned them.
But since then, I have been trying to start it .. when I had the old battery in it.. I just put the new battery in yesterday and I pulled carbs out maybe 3 weeks ago , 2 and a half. And have been trouble shooting and diagnosing since then.. that could’ve damaged the vrm or whatever charges battery ? Is that what your saying?
And cause bike to start once or so and not want to again? If it isn’t working and charging battery? I don’t think that’s the problem because it was working before. Maybe the carb.
4. I can sit there and hold throttle for 5 minutes and let bike warm up and to also blow out seafoam and junk in exhaust.. I don’t think it’s from engine.
Wasn’t doing that before I pulled carbs. It wasn’t black smoke
Thank you DannoXYZ for all your help man it’s appreciated
🙏🏽