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Old December 14th, 2017, 09:03 PM   #5
DannoXYZ
ninjette.org certified postwhore
 
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011

Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C

Posts: A lot.
MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Quote:
Originally Posted by EffaMoulton View Post
Thanks, if I did get the cheap slip-on do you think I’d HAVE to rejet my bike so it didn’t run too lean or do you think I’d be fine?
The factory jetting on a newgen bike is both too lean AND too rich. Lean in low/mid-range and rich in high-end. Easiest to address each range individually:

1. idle & low-end - unscrew pilot-screws 1/4-1/2 turn more than factory setting

2. midrange - shim needles 1-4mm, 1mm at a time. This is the variable depending upon which slip-on you get.

3. high-end - get smaller main jet, two sizes down if you have factory exhaust. One size down with aftermarket exhaust

I've got 20% more high-end power than stock on my 2008. AFR is spot-on at 13.5:1 for maximum power in high-end (compared to stock 11.5-12.0:1). To do that, I went down to slightly smaller main jet with Tyga full-exhaust. Or just leave factory main-jet alone for 13.0:1 AFR in high-end. This is real tried and true mods done by pretty much all racers on newgens. I can dig out dyno-charts and magazine-articles that showed this is path to enlightenment.


EDIT - > REFERENCES
Racing on the Cheap - scroll down to "The Nuts and Bolts" section, note: "close to perfect" is with full AreaP exhaust and factory jetting.
Racing Order - Dyno testing
Dyno testing - lean mid-range only - thinned needle to correct.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 15th, 2017 at 03:56 PM.
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