it will be a mess on the other end, but that is easily cleaned up later.
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remove the cable luber...
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Before reassembly, we need to grease the cable barrel end with grease. This allows the barrel to pivot smoothly in the lever to reduce friction. I use a HD wheel bearing grease here as most cable failures occur at this location with frayed cables being the biggest problem.
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stick the barrel into the hole in the lever assembly and assemble the same way to took it out, by working the sheathing back on the cable until you can slip it over the end of the adjuster.
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once over the end of the adjuster, turn the adjuster counterclockwise to take up the slack in the cable.
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adjust the lever spacing shown in this blurry photo to the factory spec of 2-3mm (0.08-0.12")... just call it a tenth of an inch. the main thing is to have some slack at the end of the lever to assure that the clutch is fully disengaged and not slipping. check your owner's manual pg.106 on how to properly measure this.
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after you have adjusted to the proper free play, tighten the inner locking knob and you're done.
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clean up the lever side and the engine case side of the cable and you are finished. don't forget to put the little rubber booty back into place. also, the lube will drip for a few days from the cable end by the engine.
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And now, to add 10 HP to your bike...
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the euro bikes have a 250R sticker on their rear side cowls, but they are plain black. With the addition of that red R, the bike picks up at least 10 HP... it's true... believe me.
I find the black with red R the highest HP combo.
If you are interested in obtaining some 250R decals, please contact forum member Beast on this site. He has them in many different color combos.
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