Below are a few pictures of the gasket install along with the clutch cover plate.
The clutch cover plate has a lever that must be pointed down when you slide the clutch cover into place (see image IMG_1964). After you seat the clutch cover, hand tighten a couple of bolts and then attache the cable to the lever and now rotate it up to proper position (see images IMG_1973)...(in the image the clutch cable is not attached...however, it should be attached BEFORE you rotate it up because it is difficult to attach otherwise).
*When you rotate this lever up, this lever (on the inside of the clutch cover) will pull the pin (see above post) that, in turn, pulls the friction discs apart to shift between gears. If the lever is not pointed down upon install, the clutch cover will not mate to the engine case.
When installing the bolts to the clutch cover plate, you may get the longer and shorter clutch cover bolts mixed up. It's easy. There are only (2) shorter bolts. These two are installed immediately above and below the clutch cable lever (on the clutch cover...see pic IMG_1973).
Installation is the reverse of taking it apart, but below are a few pictures, just in case.
Clutch Cover Plate bolts' TORQUE SPECS: 87 in/lbs.
**Be extra careful with the clutch cover bolts. Hand tighten first in star-pattern. Then calibrate your torque wrench properly and in one smooth motion torque to spec/tighten until the torque wrench clicks or beeps. You do not want to strip these threads. It's soft aluminum which is easy to strip. Nice even pressure all around is what you want. Overtightening one bolt or area may result in leaks. The manual wants you to use gasket sealer. This stuff is messy and unneccesary if you have clean mating surfaces and a new factory gasket along with proper star-pattern tightening.
Quick Tip: you will need to push down the rear brake pedal with your hand in order to get the clutch cover on.