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g21-30 · August 28th, 2009, 08:25 AM

Waterproof (sealed) Connector Crimping (Copied from Eastern Beaver)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...as/extras.html

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Start by putting the rubber seals on all the wires. Put them far enough back so you can crimp it. If you are soldering, put them further back to avoid heat.

Here's a closeup of a properly crimped terminal. If you are bending the tabs and soldering, be careful to solder only a bit at the crimp. Do not get solder beyond the end of the wire or it won't insert properly. Also, try not to heat the wire insulation too much, or it will melt.

Note, in these photos the seals are left outside the terminal crimp. Crimping over the seals requires some fancy crimpers that most DIYers don't have. It's not necessary to do this, you can still get a good seal by pushing the seal in behind the terminal.

Note the position of the connector here. The terminals will only go in one way. You'll find out when you insert the first one. This photo shows proper orientation on this 2 position connector. Slide the seal up to the terminal.

When the terminal clicks in the rubber seal will still be sticking out. Use a dull screwdriver to gently push them in slightly below the connector edge.

Once you get the first two in place, be careful to make sure the matching wires align red to red, black to black. In a 3 or 4 position connector it's more complex. Note that the connector bodies are lined up with the locking parts aligned.

Notice here that the bottom rubber seal is pushed in a bit too much. Try and get them just below the connector edge like the top one.

The rubber seal is actually supposed to be crimped under the strain relief tabs, but that requires a very special crimper made just for this job. If you're using pliers on the tabs, you could do it like you see below. It's not necessary for a perfect crimp on the seal, as long as the seal is carefully pushed in far enough.

Removing a terminal after insertion is pretty easy if you have a very small thin bladed screwdriver. There's a small plastic tab inside the housing just above the terminal that needs to be lifted slightly to release the terminal

August 28th, 2009, 08:25 AM	#62
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	Installing the weather proof connectors Waterproof (sealed) Connector Crimping (Copied from Eastern Beaver) http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...as/extras.html ====== Start by putting the rubber seals on all the wires. Put them far enough back so you can crimp it. If you are soldering, put them further back to avoid heat. Here's a closeup of a properly crimped terminal. If you are bending the tabs and soldering, be careful to solder only a bit at the crimp. Do not get solder beyond the end of the wire or it won't insert properly. Also, try not to heat the wire insulation too much, or it will melt. Note, in these photos the seals are left outside the terminal crimp. Crimping over the seals requires some fancy crimpers that most DIYers don't have. It's not necessary to do this, you can still get a good seal by pushing the seal in behind the terminal. Note the position of the connector here. The terminals will only go in one way. You'll find out when you insert the first one. This photo shows proper orientation on this 2 position connector. Slide the seal up to the terminal. When the terminal clicks in the rubber seal will still be sticking out. Use a dull screwdriver to gently push them in slightly below the connector edge. Once you get the first two in place, be careful to make sure the matching wires align red to red, black to black. In a 3 or 4 position connector it's more complex. Note that the connector bodies are lined up with the locking parts aligned. Notice here that the bottom rubber seal is pushed in a bit too much. Try and get them just below the connector edge like the top one. The rubber seal is actually supposed to be crimped under the strain relief tabs, but that requires a very special crimper made just for this job. If you're using pliers on the tabs, you could do it like you see below. It's not necessary for a perfect crimp on the seal, as long as the seal is carefully pushed in far enough. Removing a terminal after insertion is pretty easy if you have a very small thin bladed screwdriver. There's a small plastic tab inside the housing just above the terminal that needs to be lifted slightly to release the terminal