ninjette.org - View Single Post - DIY - Replace the '08+ CDI (Ignitor) with the '88-94 CDI

g21-30 · August 29th, 2009, 08:54 AM

Prior to starting on the "plug 'n play" harness for the CDI, I decided to practice crimping, etc. on the "jumper" connector for the sidestand switch bypass. As I mentioned earlier, per the thread that kkim posted, last week I disconnected the sidestand switch from the main harness. I then removed the connector from the main harness, which left the 2 male pins exposed. I then used a piece (1") of insulated wire to wrap the 2 pins together and wrapped this with electrical tape.

This morning I decided to see if the new 2 pin connectors male/female would work with the OEM pins. I wanted to construct a jumper using both ends of one wire. The pins fit perfectly into the male connector. Unfortunately, the crimper tool that I purchased from Oregon Motorcycle is tooooooooooo wide for these pins. I discovered this while crimping the first connector. The tool formed the the first crimp into a perfect circle around the 16 gauge RED (on purpose so it would show in the picture below) wire, but the second crimp position of the connector interferred (tool too wide) and kept the crimp from being real tight. I simply used a needle nose plier to crimp it more and then soldered the first position.

For the second crimp position, I straightened the connector as best I could and slid the rubber seal into position and crimped the seal and the wire together. Because the tool is so wide, it elongated the seal, causing the seal to not sit flush once inserted into the connector.

When I started work on the other end of the jumper, I tried positioning the tool away from the seal crimp position and in so doing screwed the tip of the connector beyond repair. I'm glad Eastern Beaver sent me a spare (free) set of male/female pins! I decided to use the needle nose pliers and form the first crimp position into a circle around the stripped wire and then crimped the circle via the needle nose pliers and soldered that connection. Using the crimping tool, I simply crimped the second position without the seal in place. I then inserted the second pin and slid the seal into position.

Next, I inserted the "jumper" (female) connector into the main harness connector (replaced above) and tried to start the engine. The engine started normally.

Here is the finished product:

The blue arrow points to the connector for the sidestand switch.

After I took the picture, I stuffed the harness behind the idle knob. I wish now that I would have used a black wire, but I wanted it to show better in the picture. I may have to spray it black .... later.

August 29th, 2009, 08:54 AM	#67
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 Posts: A lot.	Prior to starting on the "plug 'n play" harness for the CDI, I decided to practice crimping, etc. on the "jumper" connector for the sidestand switch bypass. As I mentioned earlier, per the thread that kkim posted, last week I disconnected the sidestand switch from the main harness. I then removed the connector from the main harness, which left the 2 male pins exposed. I then used a piece (1") of insulated wire to wrap the 2 pins together and wrapped this with electrical tape. This morning I decided to see if the new 2 pin connectors male/female would work with the OEM pins. I wanted to construct a jumper using both ends of one wire. The pins fit perfectly into the male connector. Unfortunately, the crimper tool that I purchased from Oregon Motorcycle is tooooooooooo wide for these pins. I discovered this while crimping the first connector. The tool formed the the first crimp into a perfect circle around the 16 gauge RED (on purpose so it would show in the picture below) wire, but the second crimp position of the connector interferred (tool too wide) and kept the crimp from being real tight. I simply used a needle nose plier to crimp it more and then soldered the first position. For the second crimp position, I straightened the connector as best I could and slid the rubber seal into position and crimped the seal and the wire together. Because the tool is so wide, it elongated the seal, causing the seal to not sit flush once inserted into the connector. When I started work on the other end of the jumper, I tried positioning the tool away from the seal crimp position and in so doing screwed the tip of the connector beyond repair. I'm glad Eastern Beaver sent me a spare (free) set of male/female pins! I decided to use the needle nose pliers and form the first crimp position into a circle around the stripped wire and then crimped the circle via the needle nose pliers and soldered that connection. Using the crimping tool, I simply crimped the second position without the seal in place. I then inserted the second pin and slid the seal into position. Next, I inserted the "jumper" (female) connector into the main harness connector (replaced above) and tried to start the engine. The engine started normally. Here is the finished product: The blue arrow points to the connector for the sidestand switch. After I took the picture, I stuffed the harness behind the idle knob. I wish now that I would have used a black wire, but I wanted it to show better in the picture. I may have to spray it black .... later.