They're called all sorts of things, ignition box, CDI box, ECM box, ignitor, etc. As long as we're referring to same thing, it's OK.
Be sure to get one from +1995 bike (wiring different for earlier models), with part# that's NOT from CA model. Those have milder ignition curves.
Also need to test ignition-box, current one and new one as well. Without positive 100% confirmation that it's good or bad, you'll have no idea if it or something else is causing no-spark condition (there's easily 10 other parts that can be responsible, do you want to replace them all? even if they're perfectly good?). At some point, you might as well buy another bike since you'll be replacing everything anyway.
Get a
solenoid light to test ignition box
8. Plug red/black ignition input wires going to coil into noid-light. Turn ON ignition switch + Kill-switch ON and crank. Does noid-light flash? repeat for red/green wire for other side.
Do this test #8 last as it depends upon all previous ones having been done and positive confirmation that all upstream components are function. Still waiting on results of your fuses test #3, wiring test #4 and battery-voltage test #6.
7. use long bolt to reach down into spark plug wire output terminal so it contacts metal at bottom.
6. What is battery voltage? If it's less than 13.6v right off charger or less than 12.6v after resting few hours, then battery is no good. Get new one and charge it for couple days. Measure voltage, what is it?