[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Well, if you've got fuel-valve issues, you can lay tank down sideways so valve is higher than petrol level. Or disconnect fuel-hose from carburetor, pull tank with hose, then screw big bolt into end of hose to stop petrol flow.

Ok I will try second option. Thanks!

Let's do these tests from earlier. Back probe harness side of connector so reading is taken after connector.. When you get steady voltage reading, wiggle key in ignition switch and see if voltage drops. Then repeat for next wire.

Ok what you mean is that I plug in the key switch connector and once plugged in, do the tests according to the table, right? but what is not clear to me is where the second tip of the tester goes to measure voltage?

2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box
W/G = voltage ???
O/G = voltage ???
BR/W = voltage ???
BR/BK = voltage ???
R/BL = voltage ???
GY = voltage ???
BR = voltage ???
W/BL = voltage ???
W = voltage ???

While you do those, I'll write up test to trace flow of electricity from battery to starter-solenoid. Somewhere you may have break in circuit.

Ok thank you so much!

Post photos of burnt-looking connector and brown wire. Also photos of your turn-signal installations.

Yes, I must first remove the tank to be able to take the photos and upload. The turns are all disconnected so that they do not affect the circuit.