[Purspeed]

Here are a few pictures of what a worn-out friction disc looks like. Basically, you will see the friction disc material worn to the point that the diagonal marks will be close to worn off. Also, you will see friction disc 'gunk' and bits and pieces around the clutch area and on the oil screen.

The interior of the engine should be extremely clean. So, get rid of all of the gunk inside the engine by hand and throw in a fresh oil change. Ride for a few miles and throw in another fresh oil change. This will guarantee that you all of the particles are gone for optimal engine performance.

You do not have to, but I soaked the fricion discs overnight in oil so that they "swell" and absorb the oil. This will help prevent binding upon installation, as well.

The last image is of a new metal plate. You will want all of the "sharp" edges of the new metal plate pointed AWAY from the bike when installing. The "sharp" edge is difficult to see in the picture, but when you see them in person, you will notice that on one side of the disc edge, it is softer than the other side. This is due to the stamping process of manufacturing the metal plates. Why do you want the "sharp" edges pointed outward? Because, theoretically, when the pressure plate pushes on the discs, the "soft" edge will not sheer the hub (housing) edges and be smooth in actuation. Some say that as long as the "sharp" or "soft" edge run in the same direction, you are okay.

The Kawasaki manual states that the sharp edges should be pointed to the outside of the bike.

Do a full oil change with a fresh filter and gaskets. Note the clean oil screen. Be sure to clean the areas where the oil screen is housed and the oil filter area. Clean, clean, clean.

*Use only OEM friction discs and metal plates and paper gasket. Aftermarket friction discs are terrible. You can use EBC clutch springs for about 15% more pressure, but this will also give require 15% more clutch lever pull.