Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
yeah, two different size bolts to hold fairing onto tank. Longer one goes on bottom where there's nothing behind. But shorter one is required for upper home as there's only about 5mm of thread. Put longer bolt in there....
I've found with age of these bikes and numbers of previous owners, half of whom are below average, that most tanks have been punctured. Out of previous 8 pre-gens I've restored and sold off, about 3/4th had punctured tanks.
Don't even think about JB-Weld! That stuff has caused more crappy repairs on cars & motos than anything else. IT WILL NOT WORK BECAUSE THAT CRAP IS NOT PETROL PROOF!!!
I've found it's easiest to drain tank, let sit outside for a day, then rinse with soapy water gets it ready for welding. Then I braze some brass into puncture hole (positioned flat so hole is up & down). I give it a little extra heat and brass slides to bottom of hole. Let cool and hole is plugged with metal!!! Actual time spent is about 15-min. Most of that is sanding and cleaning to prep that hole!
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Yeah. In my experience its seems more than half EX250F tanks will leak from there when you fill up because a previous owner mixed up the bolts and punctured the tank. Perhaps Kawasaki should've only supplied the shorter ones for all fairing bolts. It seems some people just avoid filling the tank up that high.
What about JB TankWeld? It's gotta tolerate petrol since it's supposedly made for fuel tanks and such. I found some at the salvage store and bought it because I have a punctured EX250F tank in storage somewhere. Sure enough, I searched and this dude was using it to fix the exact same issue (language):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfpTUxLGCjM
I always intended to restore mine by inserting a headless set screw with a shorter bolt in the same hole, maybe with something like JB TankWeld smooshed between them. Unless there is a gap between the threaded hole and the tank rupture, I expect it to work.
Does the brazing method leave you with no hole for mounting the fairing?