Quote:
Originally Posted by pb3
my first rodeo, need clarification:
1. "turn engine over." i've read on yeager group you go counter clockwise with your 14mm socket, is this correct?
2. i start checking cylinder 1, and right away my exhaust and intake are out of spec's. do i need to continue checking the rest of the valves, or can i go right to removing the cams and adjusting?
3. my feeler gauge start at .04mm/ .0015" and go up from there. should i invest in a .0005" gauge?
tia,
parker
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1. I've always turned it over clockwise, as that's how the engine proceeds when under power. I dont *think* it'll fubar anything if you rotate backwards, but the factory service manual says clockwise too (just looked)
EDIT: The engine rotates counterclockwise under power
2. Definitely check all of your specs. You need to know those clearances in order to put in the correct shims to get them in-spec. I advise taking each measurement at least twice if not three times, especially for your first time with valves. Also suggest turning the engine over between measurements (but of course returning to the correct cam position for the valve you're looking at) so you get a true second and third measure instead of just checking it repeatedly in the same position. That said, I'm a scientist by trade and like to be bloody sure of my measurements before I mess with anything, especially something that's gonna be moving 10-12,000 times/minute between my legs.
3. Personally, I'd invest in the smaller gauge leaves. Right now, if I'm understanding you right, your smallest blade is 0.04mm. You should be able to combine that one with anything between .11 and .25 to figure out if your valves are in spec, but the more accurate the measurement, the more accurately you can pick the right size of shim to get the desired clearance result.
Long explanations, but I remember doing the valves my first time and loved it when people explained things better.