Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackCat04
Returning everything back to stock would be a giant pain for me. So, that's the very, very last resort. I just finished fiddling with the bike. I'll fill you guys in and see if you can help me out. Like I said, stock is my very, *VERY* last resort. The buyer *LOVES* how I have this bike looking.
I fixed the float height. They were a little off. But, now, I get a drip from the float bowls. The seals are brand-spanking-new. So, I guess I've gotta fix the floats again. I set the FM screws to 2 turns, and that fixed the drip just a bit.
Mid and high-range response is solid.
When it drops down to about 3-1k, it starts bogging and wanting to die. The exhaust is pretty strong, so it's rich there.
What can I do to fix it? I'm hoping I narrowed it down enough for you guys to have a better understanding.
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You don't have to put airbox back in, but at least put carbs back to stock so it can run properly.
You've got multiple problems that causes multiple issues, so it's not easy to make cause and effect correlations. Me flipping light-switch DID NOT cause great NY blackout of 1972, but it sure seemed like it because I hit the switch and entire city went black!!!
Your float-bowl seals are fine, so is float-level. Use some UV dye in petrol to pinpoint source of leak. One clue is changing pilot-screws settings changed leak. I suspect something's wrong with your pilot-screw O-rings, washers and springs or their seating area. This has been problem for you all along, with inconsistent behavior with pilot-screw settings. Remove all screws, get magnifying glass with strong light and look down hole! I bet there's remnants of previous O-rings and other gunk that's causing new O-rings to not seal. Scrub out that passage from end-to-end with test-tube brushes. Poke out bleed hole from venturi side back towards bowl.
That and remove those shim-washers. Will fix your low-end bogging issues, too much fuel! Bike will run much, much better when carbs are back to stock settings!