Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
You don't have to put airbox back in, but at least put carbs back to stock so it can run properly.
You've got multiple problems that causes multiple issues, so it's not easy to make cause and effect correlations. Me flipping light-switch DID NOT cause great NY blackout of 1972, but it sure seemed like it because I hit the switch and entire city went black!!!
Your float-bowl seals are fine, so is float-level. Use some UV dye in petrol to pinpoint source of leak. One clue is changing pilot-screws settings changed leak. I suspect something's wrong with your pilot-screw O-rings, washers and springs or their seating area. This has been problem for you all along, with inconsistent behavior with pilot-screw settings. Remove all screws, get magnifying glass with strong light and look down hole! I bet there's remnants of previous O-rings and other gunk that's causing new O-rings to not seal. Scrub out that passage from end-to-end with test-tube brushes. Poke out bleed hole from venturi side back towards bowl.
That and remove those shim-washers. Will fix your low-end bogging issues, too much fuel! Bike will run much, much better when carbs are back to stock settings!
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I'm afraid I've already wrestled with the airbox and crammed that sucker back into the bike. I have a carb kit coming tomorrow (matches the 88-07 Ninjette model(s)). So, I'm waiting on that to come. When it does, I'm gonna fix the carbs back to stock and see how it goes. The buyer is 100% fine with the stock airbox going back in. If it leaks like that again, though, *after* I swap the old pieces out -- that's gonna be a different beast.
I've been through the wringer with carb tuning once before, when I first did the air-filter mod. Surprisingly, it didn't take me that long to figure out. But, it's just time for me to move on from messing with the ol' thing. I'm just gonna fix it up for the buyer, sell it, and move onto a bigger bike. I've got a few 600s and 650s I'm eyeballing.
