September 6th, 2018, 05:39 PM | #1 |
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Name: Richard
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Ninja 300 ram air intake
So... I made a ram air intake on my Ninja 300 and was curious if there was any interests in me trying to make some sort of production part. Just out of morbid curiosity.
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September 7th, 2018, 06:28 AM | #2 |
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so you closed off the other intakes?
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September 7th, 2018, 06:36 AM | #3 |
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Also, looks like your intake is on the same side of the filter as the throttle bodies, unless you rotated that too.
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September 8th, 2018, 12:40 PM | #4 |
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Interesting... What's the improvement in top-speed?
Ram-air needs velocity to cram in air, so won't help accelerating out of corners. But if i can pick up another 3-5mph on long straights like at Thunderhill or Laguna Seca, that would be totally worth it! |
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September 8th, 2018, 07:13 PM | #5 |
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I met a guy at Bonneville with a simple ram air pipe to a plenum. The plenum ha a pressure gauge hooked up. He said the pressure at 120 mph was about 3psi. It was a Harley with a single carb. He had a dial a jet enrichment he used to compensate for the airflow. Simple and it worked pretty well.
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September 9th, 2018, 06:48 AM | #6 |
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120 mph is about 104 knots. From the graph, the pitot pressure at 104 knots is about 0.49 inches of mercury.
One inch of mercury is 0.491 psi, so the ram pressure at 120 mph is 0.49 x 0.491 = 0.24 psi Since atmospheric pressure is around 15 psi at low altitude, this is about a 1.6% increase from the ram air intake. A 40 hp engine might be expected to make an extra 0.64 hp. At 200 mph, ram air starts to get important, and you get a pressure of 1.48" mercury, or 0.72 psi, so a 180 hp motorcycle engine could make an extra 8.64 hp. |
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September 9th, 2018, 07:01 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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September 9th, 2018, 09:32 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Biggest advantage in some applications would be the reduced temperature of the incoming air, but still unlikely to show significant improvements in normal riding. |
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September 10th, 2018, 01:06 AM | #9 |
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That’s pretty cool though
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September 10th, 2018, 07:04 AM | #10 |
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Even WWII fighters that went over 400mph used turbo and superchargers (sometimes both at the same time). Ram air just doesn't provide enough pressure until you get supersonic, at that point you can do away with the compressor entirely and just inject fuel into a well formed metal tube (ramjet).
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September 10th, 2018, 03:20 PM | #11 |
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It was more so for fresh air that was a look ittle cooler temp wise. I had seen some interests and some poor attempts at doing a ram air intake. So I will just sell this one. I was just curious how people felt about it. I spent a lot if time making it and it seemed to pick up a little mph on the straight. It dyno'd at 46 hp. With everything else stock. So... not sure. I did the tune and know there is more to be had... I just dont know enough about tuning to get it.
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September 10th, 2018, 03:33 PM | #12 | |
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September 10th, 2018, 04:15 PM | #13 |
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At Supersonic speeds and above you start to get more air being shoved down the intake. To solve this problem, aircraft like the SR-72 use a variable cone at the intake to meter the amount of air coming in. Otherwise the flame would get blown out l8ke bowing out a candle.
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September 10th, 2018, 05:19 PM | #14 |
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That's like mach 4+. Like I said... super dooper sonic.
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September 11th, 2018, 02:25 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Did you measure air-temp in airbox before & after? Also before & after dyno-tests to determine exactly how much mod contributed? Please post dyno-chart. Thx |
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September 11th, 2018, 02:53 AM | #16 |
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46hp,? Stock with the addition of the snorkle?
How? How did the ram air effect work when your stationary on a dyno? |
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September 11th, 2018, 06:14 AM | #17 |
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September 11th, 2018, 07:18 AM | #18 |
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The dyno used had air that followed with the speed of the bike. The faster the bike the harder the simulated air was. Which is why I chose that shop to use. I couldn't get any print outs of ther dyno. Something was going on and he couldn't get it to work. I can only go by what the dyno said on the screen.
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September 11th, 2018, 07:23 AM | #19 |
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As far as before and after dynos. The shop I had to use for the specific dyno was 3 hours away. So... repeated visits was not something I was excited about. And since I had to cut a hole in the air box and tie the piping. And the only way to install the airbox is from the back. Swapping it back and forth was not a quick and easy process and would take hours, and dyno time is by the hour. So, being able to do a before and after would be pricey and pretty much unnecessary except for comparison
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September 11th, 2018, 08:03 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
You would have needed to create a baseline with the bike before you started your mods, then bring it back again after it was completed. If you like it - run it, but even it situations where the factory has designed a full ram-air system (that even runs directly through the steering head) the gains are not outstanding until speeds are close to maximum. Even then, something like 5 additional HP doesn't gain you much (compared to reducing drag). |
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September 11th, 2018, 08:32 AM | #21 | |
ninjette.org newbie
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Quote:
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September 11th, 2018, 09:15 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
Speaking of R3s, I did some work on this R3 a friend is running - He had been running a SV, but is having more fun on the R3. You may want to check out Spears - https://www.spearsenterprises.com/ |
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September 11th, 2018, 09:25 AM | #23 |
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I just ordered my K-tech suspension for it. I have somebody that will buy the intake. I am still parting out what is left of my Ninja though. Once its gone. I will be putting the finished in the R3.
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September 11th, 2018, 10:01 AM | #24 |
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another reason to never use a clip style master link.
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September 11th, 2018, 11:34 AM | #25 |
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My son tossed a chain on his VFR because of a clip masterlink. Luckily it only cracked the tailsection, which was repairable. Messing up the cases is a whole different ballgame.
He's using a rivet masterlink now. |
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September 11th, 2018, 12:43 PM | #26 |
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i used one on a gsxr, one day on the way to work i started hearing the chain sound loose, the clip had come off, and th elink was backing out, but each time the link would rotate around a certain spot it would strike the swingarm and knock its self back in place. i came very close to losing the chain. i'd hate to wrap my rear sprocket and lock the rear tire down on a turn on the highway. could get nasty real quick like
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September 11th, 2018, 05:16 PM | #27 |
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Sure that shop wasn't using some software that gave you a "corrected" number to estimate crank hp instead of wheel hp?
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