Electical info needed - Electrical dummy here

[GregEvans]

Hello again,

I want to preface this post with the fact that I know jack about electrical, and electrical is like magic to me, so pardon me for the likely dumb question

Looking at the ignition electrical for a pre-gen and a new-gen, I am wanting to know what the major differences are in terms of connections. I have tried looking at the electrical I Have found here:

EX250f I believe: (http://faq.ninja250.org/images/a/a4/...matic_-_R4.pdf

And the attached PNG...

It *appears*, at least at first look to this electrical dummy, that the big difference between the two is the 100 ohm resistor, and the wire order.

Is there someone here that is well versed in the electrical on these two that can confirm this or tell me that I am mistaken?

The goal here is to fully delete the key from the bike, turning the Kill Switch into a simple on/off. Someone mentioned that woodcraft has a key delete, but it is for a 2008, and I am not sure how much modification would be required to make it work for the 2005....

Any helpful advice is much appreciated. Hell, if someone knows how to do this wiring and would be willing to share some detailed instructions, that would be good too

[spooph]

Gonna need a higher resolution pic to figure it out as I'm not familiar with the pre-gen wiring, but I could figure it out. Hopefully somebody else has an easier answer for you.

[InvisiBill]

The plain white wire is the Main power wire coming from the battery. The white/black wire splits off it just before the ignition switch in the main harness.

In the ON position, the white wire is connected to the brown wire, which powers basically all the switched circuits on the bike. The white/black is connected to the gray wire to the igniter (through the 100Ω resistor as an anti-hotwire security measure) and to the white/green wire to power the turn signal circuit. The switch also connects the red/blue wire coming from the Taillight fuse to the red wire going to the taillight.

In PARK, the white Main wire is connected directly to red taillight wire and the white/black wire is connected to the white/green turn signal wire. This is so you can power your parking lights and flashers with everything else turned off.

If you want to delete the keyswitch, you just need a new switch to connect the white Main wire to the brown wire and the gray wire (with resistor). If you're getting rid of the PARK feature, you don't need to run the lights through the ignition switch. Just connect the red/blue and red together permanently for the taillight, and hook the white/green up to white or brown permanently for power (for always-hot or switched operation, respectively). The Main fuse is 30A, so get a switch rated for at least that much too.

[GregEvans]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

The plain white wire is the Main power wire coming from the battery. The white/black wire splits off it just before the ignition switch in the main harness.

In the ON position, the white wire is connected to the brown wire, which powers basically all the switched circuits on the bike. The white/black is connected to the gray wire to the igniter (through the 100Ω resistor as an anti-hotwire security measure) and to the white/green wire to power the turn signal circuit. The switch also connects the red/blue wire coming from the Taillight fuse to the red wire going to the taillight.

In PARK, the white Main wire is connected directly to red taillight wire and the white/black wire is connected to the white/green turn signal wire. This is so you can power your parking lights and flashers with everything else turned off.

If you want to delete the keyswitch, you just need a new switch to connect the white Main wire to the brown wire and the gray wire (with resistor). If you're getting rid of the PARK feature, you don't need to run the lights through the ignition switch. Just connect the red/blue and red together permanently for the taillight, and hook the white/green up to white or brown permanently for power (for always-hot or switched operation, respectively). The Main fuse is 30A, so get a switch rated for at least that much too.

I should have likely been more specific...

No Headlight, No tail light, no turn signals. The only thing I need to be able to do is flip the kill switch to the on position and start the bike, and flip it to the off position to turn it off and have no more juice flowing around draining the battery

This is becoming a race bike, so everything else is pointless. Note: I do not want an additional switch other than the kill switch.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by GregEvans

I should have likely been more specific...

No Headlight, No tail light, no turn signals. The only thing I need to be able to do is flip the kill switch to the on position and start the bike, and flip it to the off position to turn it off and have no more juice flowing around draining the battery :)

This is becoming a race bike, so everything else is pointless. Note: I do not want an additional switch other than the kill switch.

In the stock configuration, the kill switch gets power from the Ignition fuse, and feeds the coils and start button from there. You'll essentially have to remove the kill switch from that circuit, bridge those wires to be connected all the time, then insert the kill switch into the ignition circuit in place of the keyswitch.

You'll need to run the Main white wire into the kill switch on the yellow/red wire. The red wire coming out of the switch will have to go to the brown and gray wires (to have the kill switch act as the master switch). Then connect the brown/blue and red wires that were going into the kill switch together (to connect the ignition fuse to the coils and start button). I'm not sure how much power a race bike would be pulling, or how much the kill switch can handle. Just keep in mind that all power the bike is using will be running through that switch and its wiring. Upgrades may be in order.

If you're willing to have a separate master On/Off switch, you can just replace the keyswitch with a dual-pole switch to connect the white wire to the brown and gray wires. That will power the switched circuits as well as the igniter, with minimal effort.

[GregEvans]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

In the stock configuration, the kill switch gets power from the Ignition fuse, and feeds the coils and start button from there. You'll essentially have to remove the kill switch from that circuit, bridge those wires to be connected all the time, then insert the kill switch into the ignition circuit in place of the keyswitch.

You'll need to run the Main white wire into the kill switch on the yellow/red wire. The red wire coming out of the switch will have to go to the brown and gray wires (to have the kill switch act as the master switch). Then connect the brown/blue and red wires that were going into the kill switch together (to connect the ignition fuse to the coils and start button). I'm not sure how much power a race bike would be pulling, or how much the kill switch can handle. Just keep in mind that all power the bike is using will be running through that switch and its wiring. Upgrades may be in order.

If you're willing to have a separate master On/Off switch, you can just replace the keyswitch with a dual-pole switch to connect the white wire to the brown and gray wires. That will power the switched circuits as well as the igniter, with minimal effort.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to go look at some wires on the bike, and some bits on the internet and see what I might come up with. That is excellent info though. Thanks much!

[GregEvans]

Would something like this work?

Waterproof Blue Kick Ass Switch

[GregEvans]

Any chance you could draw me up the schematic? I'm a moron when it comes to electric and I don't want to screw it up

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by GregEvans

Would something like this work?

Waterproof Blue Kick Ass Switch

That switch is rated for 3A, while the Main fuse is 30A. With a pared-down racebike, you're going to be drawing less than stock, but even getting rid of all the lights is only about 10A (~5A for the headlight and <5A for the various other little lights). I really don't know how much the rest of the system draws to tell you the bare minimum you'd need, but I'd figure at least 20A just to be safe. Keep in mind every single electron flowing on the bike will be going through this switch - think of the size of the cables coming off the battery, and your switch should be on par with that.

Originally Posted by GregEvans

Any chance you could draw me up the schematic? I'm a moron when it comes to electric and I don't want to screw it up

I don't have anything good for drawing wiring diagrams. For replacing the keyswitch with a simple master on/off switch, just run the white Main wire into one side of the switch and the brown and gray (with resistor) wires to the other side. When the switch is on, power flows to the junction box and igniter; when it's off, there's no power. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...767#post947767 has a diagram of that.

For repurposing the killswitch, I'm not sure I could draw it much better than I explained it above. At the killswitch, unhook the brown/blue and red wires in the harness from the yellow/red and red wires on the killswitch. Connect the brown/blue and red harness wires together to bypass the killswitch. Plug the white Main wire into the killswitch's yellow/red wire to supply power, and plug the brown and gray wires into its red wire. You'll have to extend/reroute the ignition wires to the killswitch area (or chop into the main harness somewhere in the middle to mate up the keyswitch and killswitch sections).

[GregEvans]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

That switch is rated for 3A, while the Main fuse is 30A. With a pared-down racebike, you're going to be drawing less than stock, but even getting rid of all the lights is only about 10A (~5A for the headlight and <5A for the various other little lights). I really don't know how much the rest of the system draws to tell you the bare minimum you'd need, but I'd figure at least 20A just to be safe. Keep in mind every single electron flowing on the bike will be going through this switch - think of the size of the cables coming off the battery, and your switch should be on par with that.




I don't have anything good for drawing wiring diagrams. For replacing the keyswitch with a simple master on/off switch, just run the white Main wire into one side of the switch and the brown and gray (with resistor) wires to the other side. When the switch is on, power flows to the junction box and igniter; when it's off, there's no power. https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...767#post947767 has a diagram of that.

For repurposing the killswitch, I'm not sure I could draw it much better than I explained it above. At the killswitch, unhook the brown/blue and red wires in the harness from the yellow/red and red wires on the killswitch. Connect the brown/blue and red harness wires together to bypass the killswitch. Plug the white Main wire into the killswitch's yellow/red wire to supply power, and plug the brown and gray wires into its red wire. You'll have to extend/reroute the ignition wires to the killswitch area (or chop into the main harness somewhere in the middle to mate up the keyswitch and killswitch sections).

Probably sounds dumb, but that makes more sense to me...so I would basically be tying the brown and gray together for the key switch if I understand correctly?

I should have also edited the post after I realized that switch at 3a was too small, sorry about that.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by GregEvans

Probably sounds dumb, but that makes more sense to me...so I would basically be tying the brown and gray together for the key switch if I understand correctly?

Yup, as far as powering the bike, the keyswitch simply connects the white Main wire to the brown wire for powering the switched circuits in the junction box, and to the gray wire for the igniter. All the other stuff is just lighting, and only goes through the keyswitch so that you can have the lights on in Park.

[tri501]

just fit a relay and switch the main load across the main contacts then use any sort of switch you want to control it as there will be bugger all load on that switch.

[GregEvans]

Bought a switch and got it all wired into the extra ignition I had here after cutting all the wires off. Been sick, so have not tested it yet LOL

[GregEvans]

Finally got around to working on the bike a bit today. In order to fit the switch properly where the key was, I took a large washer and used a step bit to drill it out to 3/4", this made it so the switch fit in there perfectly.

From there,, since there was no good way to weld the washer in, and since my welding skills leave pretty much everything to be desired anyway, LOL. I grabbed the JB Weld and used that to place the washer so the switch will if allgoes well, be flush with the top of the hole where the Key was. After it has set and cured for 24 hours, I plan on adding some JB Weld to the underside of the washer as well, then putting the switch in. I have wired it as people told me, and have used quick connects to mate it to the harness, that way, when at the track, and leaving the bike out overnight, if that is to be the case, I can disconnect it and the bike wont be easily started.

Pics to come.