How do I re-fit the airbox ?

[Tony B]

Well. I've spent the last couple of days rebuilding my top-end, new gaskets for the head and barrel, got to the carbs, slid on with no problems. Then, the airbox ............
Now mine is old and the rubbers that go between the box and carbs are hard as hell, but I had discovered that heating them made them quite soft. So, I heated them up, and quickly tried to fit the box to the carbs. Still no go. I must mention that I have entirely stripped the rear end of the bike, wheel, shock and all. So getting the box in from the rear is easy, but once it's up to the carbs, I just can't get it anywhere near to back on.
So, I pulled the carbs, and tried to fit to the box. Still no dice, so next, off with the airbox rubbers, heated them, and hey presto, with a lot of pulling and pushing, got them on the carbs. Great, then it wasn't too bad a job fitting the carbs and rubbers back on the box, as that end of the rubbers was quite soft.
'So what's the problem ' I hear you asking, well, the carbs slide into the rear of the frame easy enough, though you have to twist them just a little as you pass through the frame rails, and the airbox is a cinch too.

But NOT WHEN THEY ARE CONNECTED TOGETHER!!!!

Long and short of it is I scratched the frame, pulled a lot of wires to their limit, skinned my knuckles, and swore a lot. But airbox is on the floor, and carbs are laying between the frame rails where I just left them, figuring if I tried anymore tonight, I was going to chuck the whole lot through the window.

Any ideas ?
Am I missing something, or do I just go and buy pod filters ...... ?

[road_rascal]

I had on old KZ750 that was the same way- carb boots were an absolute pain the rear to get on (this was a 4 cyl bike). One thing I did was to spray a lot of silicone on them or use Silkolene Pro Prep . That made the rubber much more pliable. I did use a dull flat-edged screwdriver to persuade them on too.

[Tony B]

Hi, yes, I tried silicon, still no go. I can get it on one end, then when I try to persuade the other end to slip on, (or in, if I try it the other way), then the first bit slides off again ! Even with the airbox bolted up hard in the most forward position, the carb rubbers seem a little too short. I guess the rubber is too old and hard to work.
I can't yet find anyone in the UK who stocks new ones, I suppose I'll have to try Kawasaki.

[CynicalC]

Get the carbs in place on the engine first. You can even tighten those 4 clamps on them. Then get the airbox into place. Slow yourself down, patience is key. Push the airbox (with the rubber airbox boots already installed) against the carbs and working one carb at a time, use a tiny screwdriver to work the boot over the edge of the carb while pushing gently on the airbox still. Once it's aligned, keep pressure on it and switch to the other side doing the same thing.

Also, make sure those little spring clamps on the airbox boots are slid back into the second notch so they're not fighting you. And take that little bracket off that's under the seat that holds the nub on top of the airbox. Put it back on after the airbox is installed.

Remember - patience!

Or you can say f all of it and get pod filters.

[Tony B]

Thanks for the reply, yes I tried that, but the carb end is so stiff, it started to push the rubbers into the airbox!
I have just returned from my local Kawasaki dealer, where I ordered a new pair of rubbers and springs, I hope that will do the trick.

And as for saying f all of it, I have, lots, didn't help .........

I'll post when the new bits arrive next week

[Tony B]

Well, I got the new bits and finally got around to fitting them. I didn't want to take out the whole airbox et-al, you know, the rear end of the bike ends up in a pile on the floor. So, I loosened the airbox off as much as possible, pulled it back, and squeezed the new rubbers into the gap. They were so soft and pliant, I had them fitted in ten minutes flat, eureka!
Happy bunny now ........

[andylawcc]

just go buy the Pods man: I read on the ninja250 FAQ that once you take off the stock airbox, consider it gone, don't even bother THINKING about putting it back.

but now you will have a second issue: re-jetting the carbs, should you go with the pod filter.

[edit] oh, congratz, you put it back together?

[Tony B]

Yeh, all back together now, but I may go for pods on the second bike I've got lying around in the back garden.

[exploring/carolina]

Here's a modification I made to a 99 Ninja 250 air/battery box to make it easy to remove/install the carburetor. Got about 800 miles on the modification without problems:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74317

[Bushmaster11B]

Originally Posted by Tony B

Well, I got the new bits and finally got around to fitting them. I didn't want to take out the whole airbox et-al, you know, the rear end of the bike ends up in a pile on the floor. So, I loosened the airbox off as much as possible, pulled it back, and squeezed the new rubbers into the gap. They were so soft and pliant, I had them fitted in ten minutes flat, eureka!
Happy bunny now ........

Next time use a well rounded off 90 degree andgled pick. They usually have a handle like a screw driver. Then line up the carband boots and rotate the hook around the boots with applied pressure and they will work on no matter how stiff the boots are. You may run ito taking tem off in the future so keep this in mind. Oh and Lithium grease works better than silicone spray.

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by exploring/carolina

Here's a modification I made to a 99 Ninja 250 air/battery box to make it easy to remove/install the carburetor. Got about 800 miles on the modification without problems:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74317

Hi, yes I've seen that, I'll probably make the mod next time I need to pull the carbs

[Tony B]

Originally Posted by Bushmaster11B

Next time use a well rounded off 90 degree andgled pick. They usually have a handle like a screw driver. Then line up the carband boots and rotate the hook around the boots with applied pressure and they will work on no matter how stiff the boots are. You may run ito taking tem off in the future so keep this in mind. Oh and Lithium grease works better than silicone spray.

Thanks for the tip ..