Tires and Fork Questions

[DirtyPelican]

So some of you are following my build of a 2006 250 as I convert it over to a bobber. I have a few questions that I need some insight on

Forks
Im looking to replace the fork oil and the dust seals since they are cracking from being old. Am I just looking for dust seals from K&L 36mm correct?

As for the fork oil, what is everyone running for spirited street riding. Im about 185lbs with no gear on, so maybe 15W oil? Perhaps going to follow the Racetech recommendation of 150mm of oil? I know everyone will be different based on feel, but Im just looking for a baseline.

Tires
So Blue Collar Bobbers sends out a new front tire (shinko 712 I believe) 120/80-16. Im looking to match tread front to back, but shinko only makes a 130/90-16. Which is a difference of 1.65 inch diameter

I know you can get away with a bigger rear. Even on my Triumph I have 120/70 and 180/55 which is a diff of 1.20 diameter.

What are my options, will my steering suffer?

[jrshooter]

im 185, i ran .85 springs and 20 wght. now running emulators .85 springs and 15 wght.

[jrshooter]

thats only half the equation. you need to be balanced front and rear also,
just more things to consider.

[DirtyPelican]

Originally Posted by jrshooter

thats only half the equation. you need to be balanced front and rear also,
just more things to consider.

I might test out the bike once built and see how it feels, if i upgrade the front I was looking to get an 08+ rear shock as well since theyre relatively cheap used online. This would probably be over winter, Im dying to get this bike on the road and get the kinks worked out.

[Ghostt]

You can, cut an, space the front fork springs, that, what I did as I had a, spare set for my EX500, cut them down to. 85, and running 15wt added a rear shock from ZX600 and it works well for me.

The NewGen rear shock is an excellent choice, best bang for your bucks.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by DirtyPelican

So some of you are following my build of a 2006 250 as I convert it over to a bobber. I have a few questions that I need some insight on

Forks
Im looking to replace the fork oil and the dust seals since they are cracking from being old. Am I just looking for dust seals from K&L 36mm correct?

As for the fork oil, what is everyone running for spirited street riding. Im about 185lbs with no gear on, so maybe 15W oil? Perhaps going to follow the Racetech recommendation of 150mm of oil? I know everyone will be different based on feel, but Im just looking for a baseline.

Tires
So Blue Collar Bobbers sends out a new front tire (shinko 712 I believe) 120/80-16. Im looking to match tread front to back, but shinko only makes a 130/90-16. Which is a difference of 1.65 inch diameter

I know you can get away with a bigger rear. Even on my Triumph I have 120/70 and 180/55 which is a diff of 1.20 diameter.

What are my options, will my steering suffer?

I'm running PJ 15 wt. oil. I like it. Good suspension travel and minimal nose dive under hard braking. It's a somewhat firm ride. I have stock springs and preload.

Tires, dunno. I never had experience with Shinkos.

Bill

[DirtyPelican]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

I'm running PJ 15 wt. oil. I like it. Good suspension travel and minimal nose dive under hard braking. It's a somewhat firm ride. I have stock springs and preload.

Tires, dunno. I never had experience with Shinkos.

Bill

Ill probably go with the 15 and stock internals for now and gauge it from there. As for tires Ive never used these either. They dont make Dunlop q3s this size unfortunately. This is like a whole other bike to me.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by DirtyPelican

Ill probably go with the 15 and stock internals for now and gauge it from there. As for tires Ive never used these either. They dont make Dunlop q3s this size unfortunately. This is like a whole other bike to me.

Please keep posting I'm interested in your project. This should be a nice build.

Bill

[DirtyPelican]

I ordered 15w for the forks and will probably go with the recommended 150mm as per racetech

[spent_too_much]

I also run 15 wt fork oil and Racetech .85 springs. Also, options for the rear - best bang for the buck ( and zero modifications ) are the new-gen 250 and the 300 rear shock. It is a bolt in affair.

Keep in mind, that you can drop in a set of front fork springs form a new-gen, as I have done on 2 other builds, for about 1/2 the cost of the Racetech springs. They are .66 rate, I believe.

[CaliGrrl]

Originally Posted by spent_too_much

Also, options for the rear - best bang for the buck ( and zero modifications ) are the new-gen 250 and the 300 rear shock. It is a bolt in affair.

Just put a 300 rear shock on my pre-gen. It's great! Fit perfectly.

[Triple Jim]

Same here, a newgen rear shock made my pregen's rear suspension quit bottoming out on bumps, and the price is certainly not a problem on eBay. I went with Sonic front springs, but maybe newgen front springs are good too, I haven't read much about that.

[DirtyPelican]

Im looking into the 300 shock, they are very cheap and well worth it from what Ive read

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by CaliGrrl

Just put a 300 rear shock on my pre-gen. It's great! Fit perfectly.

Yo Grrl,

Are you able to adjust the preload without removing the shock from the bike?

Bill

[DirtyPelican]

Like most bikes you SHOULD be able to switch the clicker with a spanner if you have it. Ive never owned a bike that requires you to remove the shock. Is this one diff? Or do you mean do you have access to it on the bike?

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by DirtyPelican

Like most bikes you SHOULD be able to switch the clicker with a spanner if you have it. Ive never owned a bike that requires you to remove the shock. Is this one diff? Or do you mean do you have access to it on the bike?

Yes that's what I meant to say. Can you get to the preload adjuster with the shock mounted on the bike. I installed an EX500 rear shock and I can get to the preload adjuster with a 13" piece of 3/8" aluminum rod and a hammer to adjust mine on the bike. There's no way I could get a spanner in there with the shock on the bike.

Bill

[CaliGrrl]

Originally Posted by Ram Jet

Yo Grrl,

Are you able to adjust the preload without removing the shock from the bike?

Bill

I'm not sure. I will have to look at it. The shock was set one click up from bottom, which turned out to be right for me, so we didn't need to change it.

You should be able to adjust it without removing it. It wouldn't make sense to do it any other way. It might be necessary to use a piece of wood on the adjuster itself, given that the clearances are little tight. I know it doesn't turn by hand, so you need the leverage of it being solid on the bike to turn it.

[Ram Jet]

Originally Posted by CaliGrrl

I'm not sure. I will have to look at it. The shock was set one click up from bottom, which turned out to be right for me, so we didn't need to change it.

You should be able to adjust it without removing it. It wouldn't make sense to do it any other way. It might be necessary to use a piece of wood on the adjuster itself, given that the clearances are little tight. I know it doesn't turn by hand, so you need the leverage of it being solid on the bike to turn it.

Thanks CaliGrrl.

Bill