I just bought my first motorcycle and parts

[RPS13]

I enjoy riding the bike a lot, I bought the bike a week ago and put on 180 miles already. The transmission is clunky feeling "normal??" and the clutch grabs far out "normal??" Otherwise its a fun bike and I am happy with my purchase!

My part's are on there way, already! I ordered the.......

Uni Dual Stage 4200st pod filters and Uni crank breather filter.
Facotry Pro 3 Jet Kit
CR7eIX spark plugs

I want to remove the air box so I can hear the carbs better, and I'm gonna keep the stock muffer on instead. I hope the tuning all goes well.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by RPS13

I enjoy riding the bike a lot, I bought the bike a week ago and put on 180 miles already. The transmission is clunky feeling "normal??" and the clutch grabs far out "normal??" Otherwise its a fun bike and I am happy with my purchase!

My part's are on there way, already! I ordered the.......

Uni Dual Stage 4200st pod filters and Uni crank breather filter.
Facotry Pro 3 Jet Kit
CR7eIX spark plugs

I want to remove the air box so I can hear the carbs better, and I'm gonna keep the stock muffer on instead. I hope the tuning all goes well.

Welcome, RPS13 !!!

The transmission can be clunky for only three causes:
- Because the grade and type of oil is incorrect.
- Because the rider is not matching the rpm's and speed properly.
- Because the clutch is excessively dragging due to improper adjustment or bent discs or excessive idle's rpm's.

It is normal that the clutch grabs far out.
Too much far out indicates problems of adjustment.

CR7eIX spark plugs may be too hot for your engine, unless you live in really cold weather.

My best recommendation: Work on the rider first, then work on the bike.
The reason is that you should practice and becoming familiar with riding (specially stopping) before getting involved in long repairs or performance mods (in order to go faster).

If not done yet perform the whole maintenance schedule; that will suffice.
Please, read this:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Service_Schedule

[RPS13]

It's probably me then, haha since it's my first bike and all. I changed oil to Castrol RS synthetic oil 10w-40 with the stock Kawasaki oil filter. The NGK brand goes by lower the number, equals colder the plug I think??
My bike has 3,000 miles and it's a 2010. I just wanna keep it well maintained. I also noticed a nail in the rear tire while cleaning the rim... -.- I'm gonna order this tire when it goes flat: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/d...t-2-rear-tires

[RPS13]

Dunlop Roadsmart 2 Rear Tires

[RPS13]

I also totally admit that I need more riding time and miles for sure, but I'm having so much fun at the same time.

[RPS13]

Also my clutch lever has free play at the top so I'm sure it's fully engaged.

[RPS13]

I'm not to fixated on speed hence why I got a nice 250 instead of a junky 600 lol... Dream bike is a Yamaha r6, but a nice one costs $5,000. I just want the ITB chooup dry throaty sound.. After researching the topic turns out I need to up the jet size since the 250cc's are gonna breathe better. I just hope its gonna be a problem free thing haha. I'm gonna post pics to make this post much more fun to read.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by RPS13

It's probably me then, haha since it's my first bike and all. I changed oil to Castrol RS synthetic oil 10w-40 with the stock Kawasaki oil filter. The NGK brand goes by lower the number, equals colder the plug I think??
My bike has 3,000 miles and it's a 2010. I just wanna keep it well maintained. I also noticed a nail in the rear tire while cleaning the rim... -.- I'm gonna order this tire when it goes flat: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/d...t-2-rear-tires

No - lower is hotter.

I would only run a hotter plug if you were hypermiling - low rpms and loads. The standard plug heat range is a compromise, covering low rpm/load running and high rpm/load running. In normal riding, because of the Ninja's engine characteristics, you will be revving significantly more than most bikes out there.

Castrol RS is good oil. A less expensive alternative that is still more than adequate would be Shell Rotella T6 5W-40.

Change the tire now - don't wait until it "goes flat".

[RPS13]

**** I ordered the wrong heat range. THANKS! I'm gonna see if their's a good way to change my order from Ebay.... It works out I guess since I don't wanna foul $7.00 plugs and install them when I get the bike tuned right......

[DmbShn41]

Prob best to order iridium plugs in the stock heat range, no real need to go up or down in heat range unless you're drag racing or hypermiling, as mentioned previously.

Invest in a good tire (not that your choice isn't), go with the Michelin Pilot Street radials. Great grip, great tread life, many members around here have that tire and are pushing 8-10k on a rear tire with great tread wear and tread life left still. I would go sooner than later on that tire replacement though, never know when and where it will go flat. 75 MPH on the highway is a horrible place to get a flat, particularly for a new rider.

As far as clutch lever, just make sure its properly adjusted. There should be a few DIY around here on that.

Like mentioned before, wouldn't be a bad idea to give everything on the bike a one over and perform any needed maintenance that it shows, or is due based on maintenance schedule.

Welcome to the boards, don't forget to search, and ask questions. LOT of knowledge around here.