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Old July 27th, 2015, 03:58 PM   #1
GregS
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Ninja 300 gearing

Looking at going with a 415 chain and sprocket kit for my 300 track bike. Also need to gear the bike down quite a bit, as I'm topping out in 5th gear at my local track and not getting into 6th at all. Not sure why, but gearingcommander.com does not seem to list the 300, so will have to try and calculate how much to drop this by.

According to info on the web
5th gear = 27/27 for a 1.00 ratio
6th gear = 24/28 for a 0.857 ratio
So roughly 14% difference between 5th and 6th, so I'll need to gear the front/rear sprockets down by about the same.


Stock gearing is 14/42 which is exactly a 3.0 ratio, so bumping that up by 14% gives me 3.42

If I go with the 17T front sprocket, it looks like my best choices are 17/58 for 3.41 which is pretty much optimum, or 17/57 which is 3.35 which would give me a few RPM to spare on the top end in case I get faster.

Anyone see any flaw in that logic before I order a set?

Thanks
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Old July 27th, 2015, 04:25 PM   #2
Alex
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17 will not fit. 16 might fit with some grinding. 15 will definitely fit, and is easy to find. But if you are trying to gear shorter, why are you increasing the front sprocket at all? Just leave it at 14 teeth and put a 46 or 47 tooth on the rear, and you have the ratio you're looking for.

That said, I'm not convinced that gearing this particular bike to almost top out in 6th on the longest straight will lead to the best laptimes. Gearing for the particular corners or other areas of the track might be more beneficial. One of the very active track riders runs 15/41 or 15/42 on their trackbike, if I remember correctly (@csmith12). Before ordering anything, I'd talk to a few 250 / 300 owners who race at your local track, and find out what was worked for them.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 04:31 PM   #3
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex View Post
17 will not fit. 16 might fit with some grinding. 15 will definitely fit, and is easy to find. But if you are trying to gear shorter, why are you increasing the front sprocket at all? Just leave it at 14 teeth and put a 46 or 47 tooth on the rear, and you have the ratio you're looking for.

That said, I'm not convinced that gearing this particular bike to almost top out in 6th on the longest straight will lead to the best lap times. Gearing for the particular corners or other areas of the track might be more beneficial. One of the very active track riders runs 15/41 or 15/42 on their trackbike, if I remember correctly (@csmith12). Before ordering anything, I'd talk to a few 250 / 300 owners who race at your local track, and find out what was worked for them.
You sure a 17 will not fit? Bear in mind I'm not talking about a 17 for a 520 chain, this is a 17 for a 415 chain.

I definitely get your point about gearing for particular corners rather than just trying to optimize top speed. I'll have to chat with some of the other 300 owners and see what they are doing.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 07:28 PM   #4
Somchai
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@GregS, idk if the gearing of the 300 is interchangable but maybe you can ask your dealer.
The idea is to change the 'GEAR,INPUT TOP,28T' (Part-No: 13262-920) to the 'GEAR,INPUT 5TH,27T' (Part-No: 13262-922) to have 24/27 with 0.889 ratio for the 6th gear.
I just took a look at the 250 FI-Gearing and this uses an output gearing for the 6th gear with 25T (Part-No: 13262-0469), so maybe this could be the best solution.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 08:05 PM   #5
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somchai View Post
@GregS, idk if the gearing of the 300 is interchangable but maybe you can ask your dealer.
The idea is to change the 'GEAR,INPUT TOP,28T' (Part-No: 13262-920) to the 'GEAR,INPUT 5TH,27T' (Part-No: 13262-922) to have 24/27 with 0.889 ratio for the 6th gear.
I just took a look at the 250 FI-Gearing and this uses an output gearing for the 6th gear with 25T (Part-No: 13262-0469), so maybe this could be the best solution.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I really dont want to have to crack the cases and swap gears. I'm pretty sure I can find a solution with just the final drive gearing.
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Old July 27th, 2015, 09:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregS View Post
You sure a 17 will not fit? Bear in mind I'm not talking about a 17 for a 520 chain, this is a 17 for a 415 chain.

I definitely get your point about gearing for particular corners rather than just trying to optimize top speed. I'll have to chat with some of the other 300 owners and see what they are doing.
my ninja 250 race bike has a 17 tooth front sprocket and a 415 chain and i have no issues. my front sprocket guard is removed, not sure if you have to do that or not.
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Old July 28th, 2015, 06:47 AM   #7
GregS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keebler View Post
my ninja 250 race bike has a 17 tooth front sprocket and a 415 chain and i have no issues. my front sprocket guard is removed, not sure if you have to do that or not.
Yeah I already removed the sprocket guard. How much life are you getting out of your 415 chains? I'm assuming you are not running O-ring.

Thanks
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Old July 28th, 2015, 07:38 AM   #8
keebler
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i bought the bike with the 415 kit already on the bike so i can't give you a solid answer on the life of the 415 chain. i can tell you they definitely get stretched easier than the stock size chains and i really need to buy a new one soon cause mine has stretched and developed sections that are looser than other sections when i check the chain slack.
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Old July 28th, 2015, 03:26 PM   #9
GregS
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Thanks for the info. From what I've read elsewhere I'll probably have to replace the chain once a year, which is not too big of a deal considering that the 415's are quite a bit cheaper than the 520's
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Old August 1st, 2015, 12:11 PM   #10
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I am not sure about the smaller chains, I use the 520. I did run and still do from time to time the 15/41 gearing. It's a rider specific thing and changes the shift points on the track. Some tracks lend themselves to more of a stock gearing vs. something else. YMMV

On your run of the mill track, the best bang for the buck is corner exit drive. So gearing for that is the ticket. Unless the straight is ridiculously long, I wouldn't sacrifice drive for a small portion of the track. If you get pulled on, get really good with the brakes, draft like a mad man and learn to block into the turn at the end of the straight. The line will suck, but if you can block and have drive... you can guard the pass and then pull your lead in the corners. When you start to experiment with gearing, you may find you also have to experiment with line on certain corners to get max drive. This is not dependant on the type of chain you use, but when you should and when you should not shift.

Good luck!
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