Too much work in these Farkles.

[MAZ 80]

[choneofakind]

Exhaust hanger? For sale?

Interested in black one. Price?

[Ghostt]

Got some specs? Prices?

[MAZ 80]

The black pair is mine.

There was originally 3 pair simply because that's how big the piece of material was. One died in the bending operation. I forgot to anneal it. Oops. The now 1-1/2 spare pair I'll be keeping at least until I get enough posts & time then I'll keep the 1/2 "just in case" and sell the other pair.

I had hoped that once developed they might be something that could be marketed for a nice reasonable $50.

I doubt I'll make more but you never know when I might get bored and do it anyway.

There is a nice cad file if anyone else wants to punish themselves.

[Ghostt]

What type of metal?

[MAZ 80]

Aluminum. 6061 T6. That's why it cracked when bent. Annealed it to T1.

[Ghostt]

Very nice

Good luck with the venture

I'm more into stainless or titanium

I'm complicating make replacement handle bars out of stainless steel, to improve on the faulty Kawasaki design of the actual bars.

[MAZ 80]

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I'm more into stainless

Nice but pricey.

Originally Posted by Ghostt

or titanium

NASA budget pricey.

Originally Posted by Ghostt

Good luck with the venture

NO! No venture. Project is over.
Those are the only ones that are going to get made unless someone else wants the prints to make their own.

Originally Posted by Ghostt

I'm complicating make replacement handle bars out of stainless steel, to improve on the faulty Kawasaki design of the actual bars.

I'm not sure what's wrong with the OEM bars but I'd love to see some carved out of stainless.

[Ghostt]

@MAZ 80

The bars are weak, any sort of a drop and there bent. Welded ends on a thin gauge round tube. I've seen then duplicated using solid round bar, an old CV axle for one set.

I can get solid stainless round bar enough to make a pair, for less then the price of one OEM bar. I just need the motivation to do a set out of stainless steel.

Would also match my extra heavy bar ends also stainless steel.

[choneofakind]

Why not just do what the rest of us do and get WC lowered risers for your bike? There's no need for them to be solid stainless.

Look at it this way: there has to be a clean failure point in the system somewhere. If you drop it, do you want to fail a $10 aftermarket bar or damage the triple and forks???

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Why not just do what the rest of us do and get WC lowered risers for your bike? There's no need for them to be solid stainless.

Look at it this way: there has to be a clean failure point in the system somewhere. If you drop it, do you want to fail a $10 aftermarket bar or damage the triple and forks???

A valid point, but mine are slightly bent, from the P.O. so it's more just to do it just for a new pair. Also the OEM bars bend with even an easy drop,

I know the bars are inherently weak, maybe for a reason, maybe just cheap manufacturing to save Kawasaki a few $, either way I'm aware of the risks.

[VaFish]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Why not just do what the rest of us do and get WC lowered risers for your bike? There's no need for them to be solid stainless.

Look at it this way: there has to be a clean failure point in the system somewhere. If you drop it, do you want to fail a $10 aftermarket bar or damage the triple and forks???

If the factory bars weren't $46 ea side for my pregen I would see some sense in that.

[Ghostt]

Originally Posted by VaFish

If the factory bars weren't $46 ea side for my pregen I would see some sense in that.

The raw 1"x 24" stainless steel 304 round bar is about $40, which is enough to make a pair, and even cheaper is using an front wheel drive axle, which has been done before.

Here is a quick write-up I did for my EX500, which is almost identical to the Ninjette

I started with 1" Bar stock which seemed about perfect for the collar which locks into the riser. I did everything on the lathe. I cut the end that goes into the riser first. It is .080" from the end to the collar. I center cut that end then drilled it and tapped it all on the lathe. I over drilled and tapped the hole in case I needed to cut it down. One tip it is easier to cut down a section that is too big rather than have one too short. I made the collar a 1/4" again it is easier to make it smaller and it paid off in one case since my dial indicator was off on the riser end on the first one and it was too short so cut into the collar. The collar width measures .165" it can be thicker but I would not go much thinner. On the bar cut it is .875 but if you are painting it make sure to take it a couple more thousandths. Make several passes and check each pass. I cut the right bar a little more too to make sure the throttle moved smoothly. Also the last pass make it a .005" cut and prior to cutting it oil down the shaft on this last cut. It will make it a smoother cut. I also them emory clothed the bar while it was still in the lathe to final finish it. Make sure to measure and mark the bar end length before resetting it to drill and tap the bar end threads. I cut the end off on the lathe as the material I had was like cutting butter on the lathe.

Hope this helps.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by VaFish

If the factory bars weren't $46 ea side for my pregen I would see some sense in that.

Huh? I'm talking Woodcraft lowered risers. The clamp and the bar are two separate pieces. The bar is more likely to get damaged than the clamp. A bar is only $10 or so to replace. The stock part is one piece, and like you said, is more expensive... Maybe I'm just not reading what you're writing with the same thoughts?

[Ghostt]

The PreGen Ninjette has a two separate parts, one is the bar, the other is the riser.

[choneofakind]

Huh, I've not had good luck getting that off the riser.... I did not know that. Learn something every day.

[Ghostt]

I wanted slightly lower bars on my EX500 years ago, and the same modification works on the Ninjette, using Kawasaki parts from other models.

How to lower your bars....