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#41 | |
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Quote:
If the inner copper conductor is intact, then yes, wrapping it up will be fine. If it's frayed and broken, then you'll want to solder back together. In which case, might as well cut it all the way through so you can slide shrink-wrap tubing in before soldering. Then you'll have more durable repair as tape will eventually fall off when adhesive dries up. Is this short on gauge-side of connectors? Or between ECU and gauge-connector? You'll want to test black-wire for signal with short repaired to determine if ECU is damaged. |
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#42 |
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Yes I was talking about where the wire splits into two. The wire still looks intact just worn through the insulation. And it's in the main harness not the gauge cluster harness
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#43 | |
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#44 | |
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Bill
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#45 |
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Got the wiring harness back in. Still no signal on black wire. At this point is it safe to say that the ecu is fried?
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#46 |
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I wouldn't assume that until I verified that all the signals into the controller are correct, while measuring the two coil outputs. Or borrow another one and swap them temporarily.
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#47 |
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is there any way to test the ecu without finding another one to try out?
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#48 | |
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#49 | |
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#50 | ||
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Confirm your black-wire repair. Test that by measuring resistance between black-wire spade connector to chassis ground. Compare that to your earlier reading and what do you get?
Quote:
Quote:
Do one more test to confirm the left channel's dead. - disconnect black wire spade from coil - bridge green-wire from right coil to left coil empty terminal with test-leads/alligator clips - perform 'noid light test on green coil, does it flash? - perform 'noir light test on black coil, does it flash? - how does bike run? Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; August 20th, 2017 at 12:44 PM. |
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#51 |
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Like Jac said early in the thread,are you sure it's not ignition related? Any time I hear there's no spark, I look there first because of what I've personally experienced.
Edit: After reading post #50 looks like Jac is on to something. I would get a working ECU on ebay and try it see what happens. Someone once said it's pretty rare these things actually stop working and become completely F'd up. If a working ECU doesn't solve the issue maybe it's time for a closer look at that cylinder. Compression test done? Would anyone advise one?
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#52 |
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Just checked spade connector (at coil) to chassis ground got .3
Checked ecu plug black wire to chassis ground got 3.7 still. Does this mean the black wire is grounding Somewhere it shouldn't? |
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#53 | |
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Do same measurement with green wire. Spade connector @ coil and ECU should be unplugged for these tests. |
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#54 |
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Ok just double checked black spade connector at coil to chassis ground and had to switch from 200 to 2M on the multimeter and got .923, I am thoroughly confused.
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#55 | |
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Quote:
- unplug ECU connector - unplug gauges connector - unplug both black & green coil spade connectors - measure resistance between green-spade connector to ground (test-control since we know this side works) - measure resistance between black-spade connector to ground it may be possible there's another short somewhere. |
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#56 | |
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Quote:
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#57 | |
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Quote:
Does short change to open-circuit when you disconnect gauge connector? |
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#58 | |
ninjette.org member
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Quote:
gauge cluster, green and black wires and ecu unplugged. Tested both green and black wires, couldnt get a reading. Same thing with gauge cluster plugged in. Plugged green and black wires back in, plugged gauge cluster back in, took reading from black wire (at ecu plug) and chassis ground. reading 4.1 is there a short somewhere in the main wiring harness still? or should i start looking at other wiring? |
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#59 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
- power off - disconnect black & green spades from coils - measure resistance between coil terminals of right coil - measure resistance between coil terminals of left coil - measure resistance between free terminal of right coil and chassis ground - measure resistance between free terminal of left coil and chassis ground |
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#60 |
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- measure resistance between coil terminals of right coil
2.5 - measure resistance between coil terminals of left coil 2.7 - measure resistance between free terminal of right coil and chassis ground 3.5 - measure resistance between free terminal of left coil and chassis ground 3.5 And just for kicks I measured from free terminal to free terminal and got 5.0 |
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#61 |
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What are you using for chassis ground?
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#62 |
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Where the harness (black/yellow) bolts to the frame up on the right side of the bike, under the tank, next to the thermostat.
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#63 |
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Hmm, not good. I was hoping to find just black left-coil shorted to ground. Now we have both!
- power OFF - ECU and gauges unplugged - Unplug BOTH spade-connectors from both coils. - measure resistance between each red spade-connector on wire to chassis-ground - measure resistance between each power-terminal (lower?) on coil to chassis ground. |
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#64 |
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- measure resistance between each red spade-connector on wire to chassis-ground
Left - 3.8 Right- 2.9 - measure resistance between each power-terminal (lower?) on coil to chassis ground Left - no reading Right - no reading |
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#65 | |
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Quote:
Coils are OK. |
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#66 |
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ok so at this point, do I pull the harness and go through it again? Or do i start with the handlebar switch side?
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#67 |
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I think that's a good start. Trace red power cable from handlebar switch and see if it had bare shorted spots like the black wire. We want zero connection between red wire & ground.
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#68 |
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So out of curiosity I unplugged the harness from the right handle bar switch and I couldn't get a resistance reading on the red coil wires anymore. Would this indicate that the short is in the smaller harness on the handlebar switch side?
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#69 |
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If you mean the meter read infinity (no change from disconnected leads) it's not indicating a short, it's indication an open (broken wire, etc.)
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#70 |
ninjette.org member
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I realize I'm jumping around here, but I reread the entire thread and realized one thing i never tried was running a test lead from the right coil to the left.
I tried it and the bike would crank but wouldnt start. When i took the test lead off the bike would crank and start but only on the right cylinder. I dunno if this had any bearing on anything but I figured I would mention it. |
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#71 | |
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#72 |
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Do you mean a low-resistance reading between chassis-ground and red coil-wires when plugged in? And open-circuit/no reading when bar-switch unplugged? Then yes, somehow, the power-wires from switch is connected to chassis-ground. You may need to disassemble switch-housing to inspect. I don't think there's any ground-wires in there, so perhaps wires inside are shorted to handlebar itself.
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#73 |
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Haven't had much time to work on it this weekend, but I got the switches and harness taken apart, didnt find any damaged wires, so I put everything back together.
Started unwrapping the main harness (still in the bike) starting at the plug for the right handlebar switches. Out of curiosity i measured resistance on the two power wires again (after starting to unwrap the harness) and resistance had dropped down to 1.8 / 1.9. If resistance is dropping the more i unwrap the harness, does that mean I'm headed in the right direction? |
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#74 |
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Resistance between two power lines should be minimal with switch ON. Open-circuit/no reading switch off.
You actually want to be measuring between each power-line and chassis-ground. There actually shouldn't be any connection to ground |
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#75 |
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I don't know if this is relevant here, but meters and leads have a resistance. To get rid of it, you need to touch the meter leads together and get the reading, then subtract that from any readings you take on the motorcycle. So if the reading you get when touching the leads together is 0.4 ohms and you read 1.2 ohms somewhere on the bike, the actual reading is 1.2-0.4=0.8 ohms.
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#76 |
ninjette.org member
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Sorry I didn't specify, I was measuring from the red wire to the chassis ground.
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#77 | |
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Dang, I didn't know that. Makes perfect sense. Thanks for making measuring electrical values even more complicated. Seriously, thanks, I was not aware of that. Bill
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#78 |
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It comes up only when reading low resistances, but when checking wiring the resistances are usually low ones.
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#79 | |
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Still good to know now that I've entered the new millennium. Bill
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#80 | ||
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Resistance lowering may mean that the movements you're doing is making the short worse. |
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