November 7th, 2009, 03:41 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kris
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Engine Kill Switch won't kill
So my red engine kill switch isn't working. I have to use the key or put down the stand to kill the engine. I bought a replacement switch since putting a cont. test on the switch showed both ways the two wires (red and red/yellow) were shorting. The new switch responded the same way. What could be the problem? Thanks!
-KiT |
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November 7th, 2009, 03:48 PM | #2 |
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welcome Kris! Have you traced the wires to be sure there aren't any visible cuts, etc?
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November 7th, 2009, 04:05 PM | #3 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kris
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Quote:
Second Step •Turn on the ignition switch. •Set the neutral position. •Turn the engine stop switch to run position [A]. •Push the starter button and run the engine. •Turn the engine stop switch to stop position. •Immediately the engine should be stop. If the engine does not stop, inspect or replace the following item. Engine Stop Switch (see Switch Inspection in the Electrical System chapter) If the engine stop switch is good condition, replace the IC Igniter. I will go out there and trace it now. Thanks for the response! |
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November 7th, 2009, 07:10 PM | #4 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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Replace the cdi....... Thats interesting. I thought the kill switch cut the 12v to the coils. Looks like it in the schematic anyway
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November 8th, 2009, 05:50 AM | #5 |
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November 8th, 2009, 07:40 AM | #6 |
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CDI = Capacator Discharge Ignition
IC Ignitor = Ignition Coil Ignitor |
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November 8th, 2009, 08:28 AM | #7 |
dirty old man
Name: Chris
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Check the wiring that leads from the kill switch to wherever it goes. You may have to take off the fairings to get to them. Visually look at them and look for cracks or breaks in the insulation on the outside of the wire. I have seen places where wires were rubbing against each other rubbed bare and making contact.
nb
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November 8th, 2009, 10:36 AM | #8 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Out of curiosity, what year is the bike? I'm wondering why Kawi says to use the key and not the switch, contrary to the MSF guidelines.
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November 8th, 2009, 12:04 PM | #9 |
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November 8th, 2009, 12:30 PM | #10 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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same thing.
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November 8th, 2009, 07:21 PM | #11 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Quote:
Anyway, next time, remember that you have to disconnect the switch to test it's continuity. The short is obviously on the other side of the wiring. |
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November 9th, 2009, 03:12 PM | #12 |
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So do I replace the CDI or the IC Ignitor? Oh wait it is the same thing. Is this a common problem on this bike? I just read about a potential recall and everyone is saying CDI. This bike has 250miles on it. Really shouldn't have a part failure already?
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November 9th, 2009, 04:51 PM | #13 |
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is it by chance still under warranty if it only has 250 miles? maybe the dealer can figure it out?
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November 9th, 2009, 05:09 PM | #14 |
IC2(SW)
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I dont see why they say to replace the CDI. The CDI just grounds the coils to make a spark, the kill switch is supplying the +12 to the coils(via main sw). Seems like you would have to trouble shoot why the +12 is not being cut by the switch.
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November 10th, 2009, 08:40 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Thanks again for the replies -KiT |
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November 10th, 2009, 08:43 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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November 10th, 2009, 09:13 PM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kris
Location: NC
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Alright I give up tracing wires for now. Everything seems fine. I am going to read service manual on how to VOM test the CDI if it is even possible.
I am going to install the tender lead. I am bringing it up under the back seat and making a cigarette lighter plug that adapts to the battery side of the tender connection. Mounting it under back seat and it will leave enough space in that storage to stick a cell phone. I'm guessing this has been done before? I will take pics if it hasn't. |
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November 11th, 2009, 08:04 AM | #18 |
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Kris, I created the following just for your benefit:
http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...776#post120776 Maybe it will help you! Let me know if it does. |
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November 11th, 2009, 09:49 AM | #19 | |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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Quote:
If theres no +12 at coils, it has to be the switch. |
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November 11th, 2009, 09:49 AM | #20 |
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As Kerry (HKr1) stated, the function of the engine stop switch is to "OPEN" the circuit, thus cutting off the 12V supply to the coils. You said that you have already replaced the switch once, so why not disconnect the switch from the circuit? If the engine starts, then the problem is either in the wiring (not the engine stop switch wiring) or the CDI.
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November 11th, 2009, 11:36 AM | #21 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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may be it's a faulty switch
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November 11th, 2009, 12:12 PM | #22 |
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Yep, but he already replaced it once, but the new one could be bad; however, not likely.
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November 11th, 2009, 12:12 PM | #23 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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November 11th, 2009, 12:42 PM | #24 |
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It's also possible that the 6 way connector (blue ellipse in pic) has the BR/BK and R pins shorted together...similiar to what Kerry said about the harness.
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November 11th, 2009, 02:32 PM | #25 | |
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Name: Kris
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Quote:
Installed new switch. Does same thing. I will disconnect harness and put a cont. test on the leads. I can try to take switch out completely like suggested. While out I can test switch outside while disconnected. Oh I did dissect old switch but when I dissected it the little spring went flying and I lost it. BUT by just rocking it while it is back together without the spring it opens and closes properly on cont. test. I got some great ideas to go try now... thanks for all the replies. |
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November 11th, 2009, 02:33 PM | #26 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kris
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November 11th, 2009, 02:42 PM | #27 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
Location: Pensacola
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November 11th, 2009, 02:44 PM | #28 |
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Checking continuity without removing the switch from the circuit is never recommended. It will give you false readings, i.e take other unexpected paths. I would really like to know if the bike starts up with the switch unplugged from the circuit.
Good Luck! |
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November 11th, 2009, 03:36 PM | #29 | |
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Quote:
I unplugged it and put continuity on it and it worked flawlessly. on off, beep no beep respectively. I plugged it up and tested cont. behind the switch and it is always closed. onto the CDI?? |
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November 11th, 2009, 03:43 PM | #30 |
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page 2-41 of the 08- service manual
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November 11th, 2009, 03:57 PM | #31 |
IC2(SW)
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So I take it, it does "not" start(turn over) in the off postion?
For the life of me, I dont under stand the Replace IC ignitor (pg2-41).... Kawi should know best |
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November 11th, 2009, 04:05 PM | #32 |
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Starts perfect runs everything in off. Basically the switch is for looks on my bike. Luckily it is locked on and not off.
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November 11th, 2009, 04:15 PM | #33 | |
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Quote:
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November 11th, 2009, 05:03 PM | #34 | |
ninjette.org member
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Location: NC
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Quote:
I had the switch in the off position after verifying that when the switch is in the off the meter shows open circuit. |
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November 11th, 2009, 05:09 PM | #35 |
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Will NOT start with the switch disconnected.
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November 11th, 2009, 05:16 PM | #36 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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November 11th, 2009, 05:19 PM | #37 |
ninjette.org member
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The switch is perfect. It is the second one too.
not locked on just means the switch, on position instead of off. Meaning always closed even though it rocks fine. at least I can still ride. I put the meter on the switch harness with it disconnected. SWITCH ON = CLOSED CIRCUIT BEEP SWITCH OFF = NO BEEP How can you be sure it is the switch with a test condition like this? |
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November 11th, 2009, 05:39 PM | #38 |
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OK so correct me if I am wrong but if the switch works when disconnected from the harness (tests closed and open with a meter) and the rest of the harness that the switch goes in controls the start switch, and a short of the r wire then there is no way to start the bike with that harness disconnected because there is an open circuit, but with the harness hooked up the plug basically overrides with whatever is on the other end of the plug making the stop switch not work... therefore ruling out the fact that it is the switch. I could unsolder the switch from the handle that way the starter still works but I don't really want to do that
According to the attachment that plug does more than just control the kill switch. |
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November 11th, 2009, 05:45 PM | #39 |
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I just checked my bike. The switch connector is a 6 way, so the only way to disconnect the kill switch alone would be to use your old switch. You could cut the 2 wires leading to the kill switch on the old connector and hook it up to the bike. If the bike starts, it definitely is NOT the kill switch.
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November 11th, 2009, 05:57 PM | #40 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
Location: Pensacola
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With the key on, the kill sw disconnected. Is there 12 volts on the Red wire @ harness ??
If there is, could be what Kawi says... the cdi. Cdi should only be grounding the coils. If there something wrong with the cdi, perhaps the 12v is going back thru the coils via cdi. ???? |
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