July 9th, 2021, 11:54 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
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Easy fork oil change without removing forks?
I am wondering if it is possible to change the fork oil without removing the forks from the bike? With my dirtbike that has (I believe) the same style damper rod forks, it is possible to just remove the front wheel and then take out the damper rod bolts and let the oil drain. Once it has drained, put the bolts and everything back, measure the oil you took out and replace the same amount.
Has anyone done it this way and is it possible to do? I'm putting in new Racetech springs and I know that I also need heavier weight oil but do not feel like getting into to much disassembly right now. Of course the correct way would be to remove the forks but who wants to do that? |
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July 9th, 2021, 08:27 PM | #2 |
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If you want to skip cleaning them inside I do not see why cannot you do that. Moreover I think you can suck most of the oil out through the top if you have a pump. This way you can just open the top, take the spacer, washers and the spring out and you should be able to put a tube almost all the way down through the hole in the rod.
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July 10th, 2021, 05:37 AM | #3 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
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Of course one of the reasons for changing the oil is to get the solidified sludgy stuff out.
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July 10th, 2021, 08:56 AM | #4 | |
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July 10th, 2021, 09:00 AM | #5 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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Quote:
Jim, are you familiar with Bruce's Suspension in Salisbury NC? He worked over the damper rods for my dirtbike forks and was thinking about asking him to check out my Ninja 300 damper rods. His damper rods in my dirtbike work much better than the gold valve emulators and I'm betting he could work his magic on these forks as well. If he was willing... |
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July 10th, 2021, 10:49 AM | #6 | |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
Name: Jim
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July 10th, 2021, 02:45 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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Yeah, I'm sure he could improve these forks. He does mostly off road suspension but he is a wizard with damper rod forks. To be honest, I like to take it easy and generally do the speed limit so for me some fresh oil and the correct springs will do the trick for now. Maybe this winter I'll see about upgrading my forks and shock.
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July 11th, 2021, 01:49 PM | #8 |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
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On the 500, you could drill and tap a hole for a drain bolt without disassembling the forks. http://web.archive.org/web/201804272...rk_Drain_Screw The NewGen/300 forks aren't identical, but should be pretty similar.
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August 6th, 2021, 08:02 PM | #9 |
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Hey @jjmaine How did the forks oil and springs change go? Did you pull out the forks? Or syringe the oil out?
I tried the syringe and managed to pull out a bit over 200ml of oil from each fork. Not sure if pour the new oil as it is or to pull out the forks and turn them upside down. |
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August 7th, 2021, 05:06 AM | #10 |
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Name: Topaz
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The instructions on the new springs indicate an oil level of 20mm higher than the stock. Why is this oil level change?
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August 7th, 2021, 07:26 AM | #11 |
Guy Who Enjoys Riding
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More oil = less air = effectively higher spring rate, because with less air space, the air pressure rises faster as the suspension is compressed. For the same reason, less air also can prevent bottoming of the suspension.
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August 7th, 2021, 10:33 AM | #12 |
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Thanks Jim!
The syringe method doesn't seem to be very good. After looking at this diagram from RaceTech https://www.racetech.com/page/title/...%20They%20Work you can tell that there is a significant space below the rod that cannot be reached with the syringe, so I pulled out the forks. Damn! A drain plug in the bottom seems like a great idea. Why don't they do it? I had to remove the clip ons, the caliper, the wheel, the fender and a 6 bolts bracket that squares the forks and holds the fender. I had been able to pull out 500ml of oil per fork with the syringe. Then I pulled out about 60ml more from each fork by turning the forks upside down. Around 10%, so not sure if it's worth. In this case, the oil was from 2013, 8 years old, so I wanted to pull out as much as possible. After re installing the forks, wheels, fender, and bracket I realized I had the wires and cables of the right side clip-on on the wrong side of the fork tube, so I had to take it all apart again. What a j#rk! Pay more attention next time. I brought down the front end 8mm. Pretty much all I could bring it down without having the fairing touching the fender if the forks bottom out. Anyways, at 150 lbs and with stiffer springs, I doubt I will be bottoming out the forks. |
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August 7th, 2021, 03:46 PM | #13 | |
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March 19th, 2022, 09:08 AM | #14 |
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Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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I never did get around to replacing the springs but plan on it now since spring is almost here. I am wondering what weight fork oil you guys recommend for me? I have .80kg Racetech springs to put in and was thinking about 12.5w oil? I’m 185lbs with no gear and just average street rider…
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March 19th, 2022, 11:38 AM | #15 |
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I'm similar, originally was 195-lbs with gear and used 0.90kg/mm springs from Racetech with 15wt oil.
This winter I'm down to 180-lbs with gear and went to 0.80kg/mm springs with same 15wt oil. Used slightly lower oil level since previous setting was slightly "springy" at higher compression amounts. Both of these on lightened race-bike. For street riding, you'll be fine with what you've got. Can adjust preload and oil-level as needed. |
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March 23rd, 2022, 03:57 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
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Thanks Danny!
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April 7th, 2022, 06:43 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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Racetech’s instructions are vague. For those that upgraded fork springs did you start by making the new spring/spacer the same length as the oem spring/spacer to keep the same preload and then adjust with washers as needed?
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April 7th, 2022, 07:09 AM | #18 |
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Kinda, new spring + new spacer needs about 5mm less total length than stock due to higher rate and less sag. Then I added these nifty pre-load adjusters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144407494866
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April 7th, 2022, 07:45 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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Thanks! I’ll have to adjust my preload with washers because I prefer the stock handlebars. I have a set of woodcraft clip-ons and did not like the hunched over feel and for my everyday riding being more upright is the ticket.
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May 21st, 2022, 01:56 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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Hey Danny, good advice on using 5mm less preload than oem. First I tried making the new spring/spacer the same as stock and it was very harsh and not enough sag. I took off 5mm and now have about an inch static sag but when riding at a good pace on the street I am only using another 2” of fork travel. Does this mean I can take a few more mm off the spacer for a plusher ride? For me it os all about comfort and soaking up the bumps as much as possible but want to keep somewhat correct sag as well. I also used 15w oil but think when I have my tires off to change them I will go down to 10w oil.
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May 21st, 2022, 02:19 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Maine
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I have 44mm of front race/rider sag. That sounds good for a slow street rider like me I think?
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May 21st, 2022, 05:36 PM | #22 |
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Should be good for now.
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