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Old September 13th, 2022, 06:28 PM   #1
CZroe
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Super-cheap genuine Kawasaki OEM lock set on clearance for 250 and Ninja 300

Kawasaki charges over $400 for a EX250J/K lock set (ignition cylinder, fuel door, and seat/helmet lock with two keys). That might deter criminals using them to steal or sell stolen bikes but cheap replicas made it irrelevant a decade ago. They’re close but lack the Kawasaki-branded key and some of the inner parts are plastic. I see replicas as low as $26.99 (example), but how would you like a brand new genuine/original Kawasaki OEM lock set for even less?





It seems these are cosmetically blemished and on clearance.

I ruined the markings on my original ignition with my key so I drilled it out to swap parts with a replica when I found my original fuel door was rusted almost beyond belief. My attempts to clean it caused more cosmetic issues so I gave up and ordered this replacement lock set that just came in:


At some point Kawi replaced lock set 27045-5390 with 27045-5421, adding plastic plug covers which this has. Both parts are $402 on Partszilla, which is the cheapest I can find other than this eBay seller. As described, there is a blemish on the fuel door ring but I have a cover/protector if it bothers me.

There are still 4 available but let me know if you want my ugly (but functional) lock set when they sell out.

The ignition and fuel door should work for the Ninja 300 though you’ll need to get the seat/helmet lock cylinder swapped or repinned if you want to use the same key.

It came absolutely dripping with oil and no signs of use. It even has the key code tag like I got with my new bike in 2008. I disassembled my originals enough to tell this is genuine Kawasaki though they are selling as Fire Dragon Bros brand. FDB makes parts like integrated tail lights, which I bought from them before:

Link to original page on YouTube.

I don’t know why it includes the seat lock cable/striker when that part isn’t key-specific but, hey: BONUS. Maybe these were from new race-prepped bikes that didn’t need this stuff after ignition-delete and race tail. That’s probably why they are also selling tail lights and headlights.


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Old September 13th, 2022, 06:36 PM   #2
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Awesome find! Thanks!
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Old September 16th, 2022, 09:34 PM   #3
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This would have been nice when a wannabe thief ruined the ignition on my 300. I bought a used complete lock set but the other parts in the set were corroded so I ended up swapping the ignition only and now use 2 different keys lol. Maybe it might be worth swapping again to go back to having only one key and to have a gas cap with fresh new gaskets.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 04:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
This would have been nice when a wannabe thief ruined the ignition on my 300. I bought a used complete lock set but the other parts in the set were corroded so I ended up swapping the ignition only and now use 2 different keys lol. Maybe it might be worth swapping again to go back to having only one key and to have a gas cap with fresh new gaskets.
My only concern is the helmet seat lock. They look the same but Kawi updated the part numbers between generations. Replica lock sets, like this, claiming to fit both EX250 and EX300 are probably referring to EX250L/M, which is the same bike as the Ninja 300 in other markets.

I know the fuel door and ignition cylinder will fit. Visually, I don’t see why the helmet/seat lock wouldn’t but I’ve never inspected the 300’s lock in person.

If you have to have different locks you could get a key cut with different teeth on each side but then you’d lose the convenience of having it work in either orientation.
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Old September 17th, 2022, 10:21 AM   #5
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You can also have locksmith rekey some locks so they match other ones.
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Old September 19th, 2022, 09:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
You can also have locksmith rekey some locks so they match other ones.
I asked a locksmith and they said they don't have the ability to rekey bike locks. Asked my usual kawi dealership and they said they don't do that.
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Old September 20th, 2022, 03:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
I asked a locksmith and they said they don't have the ability to rekey bike locks. Asked my usual kawi dealership and they said they don't do that.
Maybe it’s because they use wafers instead of pins but I imagine there would be enough wafers between the two lock sets that it’s usually possible.

Edit:

Link to original page on YouTube.

I actually have a disassembled ignition cylinder from one of my bikes since I was going to use the exterior tube to refurbish the one I’m now simply replacing.

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Old September 22nd, 2022, 12:02 AM   #8
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I had "disassembled" the ignition cylinder and seen the internals when I replaced mine although it was through complete obliteration of the thing
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Old September 22nd, 2022, 03:55 PM   #9
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Mine arrived today. Looks good. Probably learn how to and swap it all out this weekend.
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Old September 25th, 2022, 10:56 AM   #10
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Mine arrived today. Looks good. Probably learn how to and swap it all out this weekend.
The only hard part is drilling out the special hardened security bolts holding the ignition in place. I ended up taking my triple tree to my mechanic to do that part.
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Old September 25th, 2022, 12:15 PM   #11
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Oh great. That’s not what I want to hear. Is there a special trick to or it something? Any videos out there?
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Old September 26th, 2022, 01:09 PM   #12
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Oh great. That’s not what I want to hear. Is there a special trick to or it something? Any videos out there?
I barely had any tools and no mechanical experience when I managed to get mine out many years ago. Since you’ve already got a replacement and you’re working on the bottom of the triple clamp you shouldn’t need to worry about chewing it to bits with a drill when you slip. Just worry about yourself: gloves and glasses!

If I were concerned with the ignition lock cylinder I’m removing and I had to do it again I’d get a metal sleeve or spacer that fits the recess around the bolt head and use the largest drill bit that fits through to start. Once there is a divot in the break-away bolt’s head, go freehand with the largest drill bit you can fit. This should leave behind threaded bolt studs that you can remove with locking pliers. If there is red thread locker you could add some heat from a butane lighter or micro torch.

You can see I did OK on the ignition lock cylinder but terrible on the part I was salvaging to transfer over:



Now I don’t have to worry about hiding it under the triple clamp since I have a whole new lock set anyway.
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