February 20th, 2010, 08:03 PM | #41 |
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I have run all sorts of trial and error setup and never ran into detonation . Most of my riding is done with 92 octain pump gas.
What you get is the ability to fine tune the engine timing to suite any riding you want to do . And the adjustable rev limiter.That is very important on the track. |
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February 20th, 2010, 08:06 PM | #42 | |
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February 21st, 2010, 01:59 PM | #43 | |
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Hey, if your interested... I'll sell you that one like new for 165 shipped, dtis & map switch. Only used around the block twice, then I found out the motor would not stop in gear kick stand down. Didnt want the wife forgetting, she's a newbie rider and all. |
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July 19th, 2010, 05:05 PM | #44 |
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BRT TIS - Technical Discussion
I just received mine today.
Can someone describe how to install it? I assume the on/off switch toggles between the two settings. Do I need to splice the the wires on the switch to the included extensions? What are the pros and cons of the two settings? I am also assuming that the main unit is directly swappable with the stock CDI unit as is (w/o use of the switch) . What is the default program - the "less aggressive" map? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thx! |
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July 19th, 2010, 07:17 PM | #45 |
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unplug stock and plug in the tis it can be run as is without the switch or anything plugged in. It will be on map 1 which is the less aggressive of the two maps. You can wire the switch if you choose by splicing.
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July 20th, 2010, 09:14 AM | #46 |
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I installed and currently have it on Map 1. I did notice a difference when I blip the throttle, the Idle seems to hang but drops back down to normal. I'm gonna try map 2 and see what it does and how the bike responds. I also noticed a quicker acceleration. if the Idle still hangs on Map 2 I'm gonna try adjusting the mixture screws.
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July 20th, 2010, 10:04 AM | #47 | |
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July 20th, 2010, 11:03 AM | #48 |
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Assuming both switches are open in the "run-position" ie. kickstand up and kill-switch on 'run' position. You run the wire that give the out-signal from the kill switch, by the kickstand switch, so that both switches individually will brake the run circuit.
The relay will lead negative/ground and is enabled by the power from the Neutral light on your dash. This way you can have the kickstand down while the bike is in neutral, and it will still run. Not really done this on my own bike, but i think this is what he meant. 1 is stock bike 2 is modded Dont take "ECU" literally, it might be the ECU or it can be some other box. The point is to make the circuit go by the kickstand switch. |
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July 20th, 2010, 04:48 PM | #49 |
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^ Iam kinda tired, dont really see a nice way of doing it.... maybe if the starter lock-out wasnt wired in too.. ... ?
Have a look: |
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July 22nd, 2010, 07:32 AM | #50 |
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Anyone else try map 2 yet?
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July 22nd, 2010, 07:52 AM | #51 |
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Remember before developing an opionion on Map 2 that you give the 92+ gas a chance to reach the carb. bowls prior to hard acceleration. Don't forget to listen for detonation also once you've switched over to Map 2.
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July 22nd, 2010, 08:27 AM | #52 |
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Still haven't tried map 2 yet. I did get the switch wired in, but weather has been iffy and I haven't had a chance to test it. I did find out that when you turn on the 2nd map that one of the LED's on the unit light up letting you know you are in map 2. If I am not mistaken I think its the Blue LED.
If map 2 doesn't change my idle hang I am going to adjust the mixture screws and see if that will fix the hang issue.
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July 22nd, 2010, 08:35 AM | #53 |
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I've noticed a little idle hang too. Still have half a tank before I can try map 2.
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July 22nd, 2010, 08:36 AM | #54 | |
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July 22nd, 2010, 09:29 AM | #55 |
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Before the CDI swap my idle didn't hang (that I noticed). When I swapped to the BRT I noticed the hang right away. Not saying it could be due to the BRT device, but Im gonna adjust them anyway and see if that fixes the issue. Maybe it had a slight hang that I didn't notice, and when I swapped it really started to show it more. I'll post the results, hopefully today!
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July 22nd, 2010, 11:19 AM | #56 |
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The hang is normal and slight with this unit.
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July 22nd, 2010, 11:25 AM | #57 |
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So should we expect this to happen. Will changing the idle or idle mixture help?
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July 22nd, 2010, 11:32 AM | #58 |
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I believe part of it is the lowest ignition point is 2000 rpm. Which is probably where it hangs. Adjusting the idle when warm to 2000 would eliminate the hang.
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July 22nd, 2010, 11:40 AM | #59 | |
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The 2000 RPM idle is prolly cool for track bikes as they rarely use first. Not so good for street machines.
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July 23rd, 2010, 02:09 PM | #60 |
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The new idle speed is taking some getting use to - I too was thinking about the extra RPMs and the shift into first. It is hard to tell with a helmet and earplugs, but the shift into first at a stop does seem a little rough/louder.
I do however like the constant RPM reading - it was annoying to me, but only mentally. |
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July 23rd, 2010, 02:11 PM | #61 |
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I have asked for adjustments to be made in programming for future shipments.
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July 23rd, 2010, 02:20 PM | #62 |
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Are the transmissions in any danger because of the extra RPMs while at idle - since there is plenty of use of 1st on the streets?
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July 23rd, 2010, 06:57 PM | #63 |
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Ok I'm a little confused. First I want to make sure the unit is working correctly.
Matt... Can you confirm the led status with switch on and switch off. Switch "off" which I assume is map 1, red is illuminated. Switch "on" red and green are illuminated. I have noticed when cranking the bike with the switch in the "on" position, the blue led blinks but does not illuminate. Once I am confident the unit is working properly, I will comment on the units performance. I will say right now that I have no idle issues. Idle went down a little if anything. Holding around 1350 rpm's. Posted via Mobile Device |
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July 24th, 2010, 07:00 AM | #64 |
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The blue light flickers to indicate power is flowing to the unit it never illuminates and stays lit.
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July 24th, 2010, 08:25 AM | #65 |
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Once I am confident the unit is working properly, I will comment on the units performance. I will say right now that I have no idle issues. Idle went down a little if anything. Holding around 1350 rpm's.
Posted via Mobile Device[/QUOTE] What changes did you make to bring the idle down? |
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July 24th, 2010, 04:10 PM | #66 | ||
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July 25th, 2010, 08:58 AM | #67 |
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I hope my idle goes down to 1350 RPMs without making any changes.
I wonder if your mods made a difference, Jason? So from one ride to the next the RPMs went from 2000 to 1350 without making any idle adjustments? My bike is bone stock. |
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July 26th, 2010, 06:45 AM | #68 | |
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On a side note...I was having some concerns that my bike was running a little rich on the idle circuit prior to installing the BRT TIS. After a short ride around the neighborhood, I did turn my adjustment screws in an additional 1/4 turn. Last night I was out riding and noticed my idle had raised just slightly and I also noticed that when grabbing the clutch to coast to a few stop lights, the bike seemed to come down to around 2000-2500 pretty fast but hung there briefly and then slower than normal returned to idle. I'm still testing the unit but it has me thinking that the mixture screws may have some sort of effect. After a bit more riding, I think I'm going to pull my plugs to check for a rich or lean situation. My suggestion to anyone having the high idle concern... pull your plugs to verify a clean burn. austexjg: Being your bike is "bone stock" as you say. We all know the bikes from the factory are lean on the bottom of the powerband including the idle circuit. I would say minimally that you consider shimming your needles to allow the extra fuel in. Idle hang can be a lean condition and it's also my understanding that it is very bad for the engine. kkim here on the forum is our carb/jetting expert. I would also suggest you drop him a PM to pick his brain on this one. Together I'm confident we can resolve this issue.
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July 26th, 2010, 08:54 AM | #69 |
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I've had the idle hang, and it turned out to be a rich condition. So don't rule that out unless you got readings of the spark plugs.
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July 26th, 2010, 09:14 AM | #70 |
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I'm going to try to get Tomy Huang the head guy at brt on here to help with any technical stuff. Because this is over my head experience wise.
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July 26th, 2010, 02:49 PM | #71 |
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Jason - " I did turn my adjustment screws in an additional 1/4 turn." - on the carb or the idle adjustment screw on the side of the bike?
I'm thinking about adding a jet kit instead of the shimming - just don't think I'm going to DIY it - need to shop around on installation/tuning prices. Last futzed with by austexjg; July 28th, 2010 at 08:49 AM. |
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July 27th, 2010, 05:59 AM | #72 | |
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July 28th, 2010, 04:48 AM | #73 |
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Hey Matt:
Mine seems to have no rev limiter either. I've found myself busting 15,000 RPM's a couple times. Thought these were supposed to be set at 14,500 which is what the stock valves can handle. Thoughts?
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July 28th, 2010, 09:52 AM | #74 |
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Non pros have a 15k rev limit. Which is still within the tolerances of the head. However prolonged useage at 15k will fry your motor.
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August 16th, 2010, 06:51 PM | #75 |
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Matt,
Is there a way to switch to map 2 without having to install the switch? I have the programmable unit. Also the programmer has a LED cluster in the 3rd place that is not working. How do I send it back to get a new one? |
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August 17th, 2010, 09:09 AM | #76 |
The Sportisi Master
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PM me and I will give you my address and send a new one. A broke circuit is map two. so the ignition with out anything plugged into it is map 2 one the switch wires separated. linked is map 1.
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December 16th, 2010, 09:31 AM | #77 |
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BRT TIS- non programmable
I purchased the BRT TIS and finally got it last Saturday. I got it installed and it's awesome. Pulls harder through every gear.
Some thoughts: The system came with a handlebar switch that says on/off. This switch has a pigtail which ends in a male & female bullet crimp connectors. You're given another harness that has the connections for the CDI unit for the switch. It's a 2 pin harness which has a length of wire. You would think that they would have crimped on the matching bullets for you to "plug and play" but it just ends in snipped off wires. The kit didn't even come with the bullets in a bag so you could do it yourself. 2nd, the two wire harnesses were too short (as others have mentioned). I'm not sure why they can't spare the extra 8-9" of wiring. Usually manufacturers give you too much and you just cut the length down. Being on a motorcycle, They could approximate how much length is needed to run from the handlebar all the way to the TIS and give it an extra 5" of slack. I ended up soldering in about 9" of new wire and heatshrinking. I'm really not sure where BRT installed theirs, but it's pretty natural to remove what you're replacing and putting the new part where the old one went. The switch buttons are yellow and pretty ugly imo. It would have been nice to get a standard color like red to match the other buttons on the bike. The unit was slightly fatter than the 2 plastic tabs that the stock cdi's rubber sleeve slid on to. I could push it down, but the tabs would bow outwards. I ended up putting some velcro on the bottom of it and a zip tie strap on top to keep it from moving. I tried the oem sleeve, but that was a no go. The bike seems to run a hair richer. I can smell the unburned fuel during warm up more now than before. Altho that might just be my imagination. Overall, even with the very minor complaints it's a great unit if you're looking for a little extra oomph. Even with the 87 octane I had in there with the map set to OFF, I could instantly tell it was faster. Keep in mind, I weigh close to 200 and it picked up enough HP to haul my fat ass down the road faster than before. I put in some 91 octane yesterday and will run through that before I switch it to ON since the 91 is mixed with the 87 now. There was just under a gallon of 87 left when I filled with the 91. EDIT: forgot to mention that my bike has a full yoshi exhaust and rejetted carbs. Results will vary with what your bike has. |
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December 16th, 2010, 10:42 AM | #78 |
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/merged a handful of threads that were all BRT TIS reviews, so it's all in one place and a bit easier to track down. All of the existing threads have pointers that will remain for a week.
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December 16th, 2010, 11:14 AM | #79 |
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Kit I got awhile back is a plug & play as far as the connector to that yellow switch. I think the length is fine...I don't remember having to extend it.
Only thing to note is "ON" is close which means map #1 (conservative map).."OFF" is open = map #2 (aggressive). I wish they switch the ON/OFF around...I would think it makes more sense to have "ON" as aggressive. Anyhow it's a PnP unit...I forgot I even have it in there until you digged up this thread...LOL.. |
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December 16th, 2010, 11:57 AM | #80 |
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Yeah I found the switch orientation weird also, but I figured it is just a generic switch with "on" obviously referring to the switch closing the circuit. Since the second map is only activated with an open circuit, the switch must be "off" to do it.
I have a VR Black exhaust and Non-Programmable TIS coming in the mail now (yaay), and I probably won't use the switch at all (keep . But if I do, I've already decided that instead of thinking of the switch as "positive," I'll consider it the toggle for something "negative," since being "on" reduces performance. So, don't think of it as a "Fun" or "Go" Wwitch (with "on" being more Fun / Go). Instead, look at it like a "Lame" switch :P. If you want to be optimistic, perhaps a "safety" switch would be appropriate :P . Anyways, that's my post for the day about absolutely nothing.
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