November 26th, 2008, 04:30 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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DIY: Let's Get Nekkid!!!
So much is covered up by that sexy body dressing, but you need to get under it to really get down to business...
Here's how... start with taking off the side covers. A #3 phillips works best, as a #2 will fark up the screw... ask me how I know. -015.jpg Once the covers are off, you will need to remove the allens around the lower fairing perimeter. There are 2 sizes of allens.. two larger sizes on the back half and 4 smaller ones with plastic washers on the front end of the fairing. Remember which ones use the plastic washers. -016.jpg -017.jpg On the bottom of the fairings where they come together, they use a plastic type rivet to hold the fairing halves together. There are 3 total... one in the front and 2 underneath. To remove, use a flat blade to pop out the middle section and then remove the rivets from the holes. -018.jpg On the inside front of each fairing is a black plastic piece being held on by two plastic rivets on each side. These work by pushing the center pin in till it clicks... about 1/4", then remove the rivets. -019.jpg One last allen to remove. It is located in the middle of the plastic tunnel looking thing in the center of this picture. It's the same size as the smaller allens from the fairing, but it has no plastic washer. -020.jpg |
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November 26th, 2008, 04:31 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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At this point, all of the fasteners should be removed and the fairing is only being held on by tabs along the topside between the black plastic piece for the console and the fairing. You need to kind of slide it out and forward to get the fairing to separate. Easy does it as the plastic is brittle here.
-021.jpg Once you get the fairing to separate, you need to unhook the blinker harness. I support the bottom edge of the fairing with my foot as I depress the connector tab to separate the connector. For some reason, this little connector can be a real SOB to come apart, sometimes. -022.jpg The tab to release the connector is next to my thumb in this pic. -023.jpg Some pics of the right fairing with the allens removed from the bodywork. -024.jpg -025.jpg -026.jpg Once you have both fairings off, you should be left with a bike ready to be worked on... and this is what she looks like nekkid... -027.jpg -028.jpg Installation is the reverse.. duh! To keep things organized, I usually group things as I take them off so when it's time to go back on, the parts are in the same place. Hope this helps all of you to feel more comfortable about how to undress your bike. -029.jpg some additional photos on how to remove the bottom fairing fasteners... -030.jpg -031.jpg -032.jpg |
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November 26th, 2008, 04:48 AM | #3 |
That's me!
Name: TJ
Location: Ames, IA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r (Tis blue), 2008 CBR600RR Posts: 454
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You're the bestest kkim!
This is reminding me of poker rules btw... I see your "Putting a bike on the stands" and raise you a "Adjusting valve lash" thread! |
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November 26th, 2008, 04:57 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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November 26th, 2008, 10:24 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Alex
Location: Belfast, ME
Join Date: Jul 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Honda NT-700-V, formerly, Green 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Kelly, Your DIY`s are better than a Shop Manual. When I get my new computer, I will put them all on a CD. I still plan to buy a shop manual--not an Ebay pirate copy. I think that copying someone else`s work and selling it is wrong.
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November 26th, 2008, 10:32 AM | #6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Glad to be of help, Alex.
Sometimes reading about it in the service manual just doesn't give you the full effect on what needs to be done. I try to supplement the manual with picture DIYs so people can visualize the task at hand. Between Vex and myself, you ain't seen nothin' yet... hope to contribute more DIYs soon. |
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December 4th, 2008, 03:48 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Alex
Location: Belfast, ME
Join Date: Jul 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Honda NT-700-V, formerly, Green 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Kelly, You guys could publish a 250R DVD Shop Manual Supplement.
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December 4th, 2008, 04:08 PM | #8 | |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Quote:
I contribute because I feel a need to give back, in some small way, to the people who have graciously helped me in the past. I'm a firm believer of "Paying it Forward". |
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January 31st, 2009, 03:56 AM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Troy
Location: Gold Coast, QLD
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250r Posts: 20
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Just a follow on from kkim's post, for removing upper fairings and replacing a globe in the gauge cluster.
** images can be clicked to open higher quality version. Remove the screws circled. One on each side. These two screws are the reason why you need to follow kkim's method first.. For some reason they decided to make it difficult to remove the front fairing. I guess so they can charge more on labour. at the front at the front towards the bottom, although these two should have already been removed when you followed kkim's method. Under the upper fairing, there are I believe 4 plastic rivets, to remove you just use the end of a screw driver or something small and push the centre of the rivet in. The rivet should now come away when pulled. Remove these two screws while supporting the upper fairing, might be easier to get a second person to hang on to it, although I managed to do it myself with a bit of twisting. The fairing should now be loose to come away. You should be able to pull the upper fairing with windscreen/mirrors/headlight attached together, forward a few cms'. You then reach in behind the fairing and unplug the headlight cables. If you just wingle them back and forward they should come out. One closest to the camera is plugged in, and further unplugged to demonstrate what the plug looks like under the plastic. and thats it for removing the upper fairing. ----- Now for replacing the broken globe this is the globe Drove over to kawasaki parts store and they gave it to me for free. Recommend them.. Pro Kawasaki Nerang store on the gold coast, qld, australia. Here is the back of the gauge cluster. You don't need to remove the cluster to access the bulbs. The rubber grommets each represent a globe, you can generally gauge which globe is for what by looking at the front and then at the back and lining them up.. The speedo is the one circled. I just used a pair of pliers and twisted back and forward while pulling and the grommet popped out. Pull the bulb out, can just use fingers... replace it, and turn the ignition on to check that it all works. Success for me and if everything works for you, you can put it all back together in reverse. Hope it helps someone else. |
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February 12th, 2009, 03:55 PM | #10 | |
Ramen Rider
Name: Gary
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
when you need to put these "rivets" back on: from the back side of the rivet, push the center pin back past the outer ring. position the rivet in the hole and push the center pin flush with the outer ring of the rivet until it clicks into place. |
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February 12th, 2009, 03:59 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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what cha doin', Gary??
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February 12th, 2009, 04:10 PM | #12 |
Ramen Rider
Name: Gary
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.
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oh, no. hehe. that is from when i shimmed my needles.
i was trying to push the rivet in the hole, reach behind the fairing, and tried to push the tab flush that way..... doesn't work. i figured it had to be something really simple. |
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February 12th, 2009, 08:01 PM | #13 |
Area P
Name: Kerry
Location: SoCal & South Florida
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439
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Kelly - props for all your DIY(s). Putting a series of "remove & replace" type operations down in pictures and writing is sometimes taken for granted. You really convey them in excellent form. Especially for someone who lives in paradise!
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February 12th, 2009, 08:11 PM | #14 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Kerry,
Thanks for the kind words... especially coming from a man in your position. I'll take that as a compliment... even if I do live in paradise. I'd like to also take this time to say "thank you" to you for all you do to support our small band of 250 riders with outstanding products from your shop. It's always nice when there are great companies like yours that provide support for niche bikes. Any thoughts of perhaps developing an exhaust system for the pre 08 bikes? |
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February 12th, 2009, 08:37 PM | #15 |
Area P
Name: Kerry
Location: SoCal & South Florida
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 439
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My pleasure.
I have thought about doing a full system for the pre-'08 models for awhile now. From 1980 - 1993, I ran a company called SuperTrapp/Kerker. In the Kerker division, we sold Slip-Ons for the older model 250. If there is interest, I would love to R&D a full system for one. We can do so much better than dual Slip-Ons, while gaining much more power and lighter weight with a 2-1 design. Someone nearby in SoCal would need to provide a bike for a few weeks. And of course they would get the first production system for free. Last futzed with by kbryant; February 12th, 2009 at 09:18 PM. Reason: spelling |
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February 12th, 2009, 08:39 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Wow... we need to get this offer out in the general forum.
Oh, Alexx!!!!! Thanks, Kerry! |
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February 16th, 2009, 07:36 PM | #17 | |
Some weird Canuck!
Name: Greg
Location: Ontario - Canada
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '92 CBR250RR "Babyblade", 2008 Ninja 250R, 2001 CBR600F4i Posts: 209
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Quote:
No way, I had a Kerker on my 1991 CBR600F2 for a while. Was a nice pipe. |
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December 23rd, 2009, 07:58 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mychelle
Location: Texas
Join Date: Dec 2009 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 Posts: 23
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Loads of help using this today!
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May 9th, 2010, 01:53 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Buell XB12R (his), 2010 Ninja 250(hers) Posts: 18
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Nvm
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May 22nd, 2010, 03:11 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Greg
Location: Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 ZX6R 636 Posts: A lot.
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Just when I can't figure out why my fairing isn't coming off I remember Kelly did a DIY, I see why and my day is simplified. Thanks KKim.
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May 22nd, 2010, 03:58 PM | #21 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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lol... and which fastener did you forget?
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May 23rd, 2010, 08:36 PM | #22 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Greg
Location: Rhode Island
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2013 ZX6R 636 Posts: A lot.
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August 2nd, 2010, 04:15 PM | #23 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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You know, the title of this thread, while amusing, makes it darn hard to find when you need it!
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August 2nd, 2010, 04:25 PM | #24 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Cab
Location: Miami Beach
Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): Blue 10 250r Posts: 697
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August 6th, 2010, 08:10 AM | #25 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kim
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R, 2007 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Posts: 20
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Can someone post a DIY on removing the remaining plastics? I can probably figure it out with the service manual, but these DIYs with photos are fantastic!
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August 6th, 2010, 08:53 AM | #26 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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What kind of thread-locker should I use and are there specific torque values?
Quote:
Someone else can get you pictures but here's a quick explanation: The tail pieces require you to remove the side panels (two phillips screws-don't even try the ones in the included tool kit) and the main seat (two allen bolts). Unlock the rear seat and you can then remove the four allen bolts on top and two on bottom. The rear-most bolts goes into a rubber wellnuts that are probably both in two completely seperate pieces by now... you will want to hold the bottom and catch the loose piece when you remove each one. That's all there is to it except that you may have to remove the right side to remove the left side due to overlapping plastic. |
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August 29th, 2010, 03:22 PM | #27 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ian
Location: Columbia, SC
Join Date: Aug 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09' 250 ARRRRRR Posts: 130
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anybody taken the tail section off yet?
ive gotten the fairings off, but i need to take the rear plastics off, and im not trying to break anything. *edit* reading owns me. thank you sir CZroe. lol. |
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April 29th, 2011, 09:58 AM | #28 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Michael
Location: Belgium
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, Fazer8 Posts: 580
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would it be a good idea to do all this work, just because you want to clean more easily? or is it really not worth the trouble?
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April 29th, 2011, 12:21 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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it's a good idea to learn how to undress your bike just for practice.
seriously, the more times you do it, the more you learn all the little tricks that make removing and reassembling the bodywork easier and faster without breaking/forcing anything. as far as cleaning, I usually remove and clean everything that I can once every year or so with the bodywork removed. Once you're done cleaning, spray a light coat of rubber protectant on areas that were especially difficult to reach and next time clean up will be easier. just be sure to keep that stuff away from hand/foot controls and tires. |
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April 30th, 2011, 03:26 PM | #30 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Michael
Location: Belgium
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250r, Fazer8 Posts: 580
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I did it today and I must admit that this DIY was very helpfull. As I live in Belgium (Europe), I think it must be interesting for you to see some differences.
The first is that there are no screws! See pictures. I don't how you call those in english but they are very easy to remove. The second is that I could already unhook the blinker harness after removing the black covers. pretty handy |
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April 30th, 2011, 03:30 PM | #31 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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yes, we have the same screws... they are called Allen head screws/bolts.
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June 16th, 2011, 04:16 PM | #32 |
shaol1n ninja stuntman
Name: Jae
Location: Philly
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Yamaha YZF R6 Anniversary "Yoshiko" 2007 Honda CBR600RR "Katsumi"(SOLD) 2010 Ninja ZX-2R "JADE" (RIP) Posts: 726
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hey thanks big mike! i am about to do a turn signal swap and was hoping to accomplish without having to remove the whole side fairings. im gonna go pop the black pieces off and hopefully i will see the connector!
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August 31st, 2011, 09:27 AM | #33 |
ninjette.org member
Name: nathan
Location: Springfield IL
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): Honda Ruckus Posts: 35
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good write up.
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January 19th, 2012, 08:26 AM | #34 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Max
Location: UK
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja EX250 K8F Posts: 89
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Thx loads for this. I just got a new fairing for the right hand side. Looks easy to follow your guide
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April 27th, 2012, 12:27 PM | #35 |
One Loyal Fox
Name: Rahul
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250R (RIP), 2011 ZX-6R Posts: 869
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excellent. went down on my bike wednesday and need to align my front fork, and this will help me take off the plastics (and eventually replace them). I have no qualms about working on my bike now..working on my car, that's a whole different story!!
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December 11th, 2012, 10:34 AM | #36 | |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 102k+ miles -- 2014 CB500X, 42k+ miles Posts: A lot.
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I'm a picture type, so noticed there were no pictures for the tail. Hope this helps someone...
Quote:
Finally, I found lifting the center part first (at the key lock) then pulling the rear peg from the rubber plug (not sure technical term), followed by the front peg seems to get the piece off the easiest as it is tight. And now your bike is truly butt nekkid!
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<-- Linky Hey Unregistered! The code [you] shows the username currently logged in. IBA # 56020 AMA # 521481 Fun Rides! ][ My Videos ][ My Gear Hold yourself to the same rules you expect others to follow. Last futzed with by NevadaWolf; December 11th, 2012 at 09:54 PM. |
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December 11th, 2012, 09:18 PM | #37 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
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September 21st, 2014, 09:54 AM | #38 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Eric
Location: Chicago
Join Date: Sep 2014 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 Posts: 3
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Quote:
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March 12th, 2015, 05:44 PM | #39 |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 102k+ miles -- 2014 CB500X, 42k+ miles Posts: A lot.
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Are the pics for removing the front showing for anyone else? All I see are broken links.
If they are broken, I can snap some pictures...
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<-- Linky Hey Unregistered! The code [you] shows the username currently logged in. IBA # 56020 AMA # 521481 Fun Rides! ][ My Videos ][ My Gear Hold yourself to the same rules you expect others to follow. |
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March 12th, 2015, 06:44 PM | #40 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: .
Join Date: Feb 2015 Motorcycle(s): . Posts: 46
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The pix and links are broken on the upper fairing removal. The domain is up for sale.... I'd appreciate a few pix. I have to jump in this area in the next week. Thanks!
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