July 20th, 2011, 03:16 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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DIY: T-Rex Frame Sliders and Spools
I did a lot of research on many frame sliders from Shinto and Intuitive to Shogun. All vary in price and design with pros and cons. I was about to make a decision when I found the new T-Rex 250R frame sliders (www.t-rex-racing.com). I like the fact that the slider mounts to two points and fits higher on the fairing, adding more protection, and are made in the USA. The innovative design looks well thought out and the price is $80 + $15 s/h with no tax if you’re outside of Texas. A big plus!
There are lots of good reviews from forums on other T-Rex bike slider applications (R6, 600R, etc.) and their bike stands are pretty popular. However, I could not find any slider reviews specifically for the 250 anywhere. I contacted T-Rex with a ton of questions about the quality, build, design, etc. and their customer service is great (Thanks Tom!). So I decided to try a set out. I also ordered a set of rear plastic T-Rex spools for $12.50. Items arrived within 3 days and parts are solid and fitment is dead-on. Since the install is very similar to the other sliders on the market, I’ll cover the basics and any additional tips on how the install went. |
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July 20th, 2011, 03:17 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Instructions are pretty thorough. Only discrepancy was I needed a 14mm socket and not 15mm and it didn’t note about using a jack to support the engine to remove the engine bolt. I’ve since contacted Tom at T-Rex and the instructions should be updated soon.
Tools: 5mm and 8mm hex keys, 14mm and 17 mm socket, socket wrench, lb. torque wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. The stock bolts were on really tight. |
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July 20th, 2011, 03:18 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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1. Put bike on rear stand. Side stand is okay, but it makes the job so much easier on a rear stand.
2. Strip bike - you know the drill. If not, it’s covered extensively on the forum. 3. Support the engine. I used auto floor jack with a flat piece of wood in between the jack and undercarriage. 4. Remove long engine bolt from (A - Red Circle) and bracket bolt (B – Red Circle). 5. Install bracket by installing small bolt with aluminum spacer by lightly tightening it. Do not tighten. Tip 1: I found it easier to remove the nut from the right side with a 17mm socket wrench and used an open-end wrench to hold the bolt head in place on the left side. Tip 2: For California bikes with the charcoal canisters, there’s a factory bracket on the left side of the bike (C – Red Circle) that may need to be bent/pushed back a bit. Also, you’ll need to add another washer (Red circle - extra washer) to the slider bolt to make it fit. Otherwise, bolt will hit the bracket and the slider will not install correctly. |
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July 20th, 2011, 03:19 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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6. Right side bracket install. Since the engine bolt is already removed, remove the top bolt (D – Red Circle).
7. Install flat plate and bracket with aluminum spacer. 8. Install long engine frame bolt. Torque setting is 35 lb. Tip: Temporarily install slider bolt to keep the flat plate and bracket aligned. |
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July 20th, 2011, 03:19 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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9. Install fairings.
10. Install long slider on the left and short slider on the right. 11. Install 10 mm spools. Super easy! 12. Go riding. Recheck bolts during your next service or wash. Hope you found this helpful and just another slider option that’s easy to install, high-quality and at a great price with fantastic customer service. |
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July 20th, 2011, 04:24 PM | #6 |
Sexy Beast
Name: Mat
Location: Tampa
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R, 2006 ZX-14, 2012 Ducati Monster Posts: A lot.
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hhhmmm....
I like these |
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July 20th, 2011, 04:40 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org dude
Name: 1 guess :-)
Location: SF Bay Area
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/linked from main DIY thread
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July 20th, 2011, 06:00 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org Pirate
Name: Seph
Location: San Diego
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250r Posts: 301
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Very nice guide!
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July 22nd, 2011, 05:55 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Spence
Location: Bogalusa, Louisiana
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250SE, green Posts: 85
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neat! great job on the write-up |
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September 29th, 2011, 09:54 PM | #10 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Dima
Location: San Diego
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R Posts: 7
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Thanks for the guide. I have the same sliders and the instruction sheets sucked balls.
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October 2nd, 2011, 08:44 PM | #11 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 771
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I noticed you mentioned something about a torque setting for the engine bolt. How important is it that I have the correct torque setting? Can I just tighten the bolt?
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October 2nd, 2011, 08:57 PM | #12 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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I recall the instructions said 35 lb/tq but I think factory is 45. You might want to double-check. Anyways, tighten it as tight as you can and recheck after a few 100 miles. It's a little important since it does hold the engine in place. :-)
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October 3rd, 2011, 12:55 AM | #13 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Justin
Location: Ewa Beach, HI
Join Date: Feb 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 CT Blue 250R(Sold), 2008 Black & Silver Honda CBR600RR(Current) Posts: 201
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Quote:
no matter what type of frame slider mount you have the oem foot pegs,shifter and brake pedal will get damaged from a tip over....unless you get aftermarket rearsets with fixed foot pegs. even with my shogun frame sliders my shogun barends sliders still got a little rash from a tipover, and my old pazzos got like a really minute ding in it. |
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October 3rd, 2011, 07:52 AM | #14 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Good point, but I now have A&L rearset adjusters and the frame sliders are just to minimize any potential damage. Nothing is guaranteed and then there are those who will be totally against sliders all together. I think the T-Rex kit is a great option to have if you want multiple mounting points and higher positioned sliders.
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October 4th, 2011, 09:12 AM | #15 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 771
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Quote:
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October 4th, 2011, 09:30 AM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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October 4th, 2011, 10:20 AM | #17 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 771
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So did you use a socket on the other side? I'm just having and awful time finding a way to get some leverage to remove that bolt.
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October 4th, 2011, 12:44 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Yep, socket set. Don't recall if I used an extension but if it's on there good keep trying it'll come off.
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October 5th, 2011, 04:54 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 771
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I finally got that bolt off today. In the process of removing said bolt, I broke a socket extension, socket adapter, and the SOCKET itself!!! Thats right, the socket itself split right down the side. Needless to say, me and my dad were shocked. Luckily, all the parts were Craftsman, so they were replaced for free. So today I borrowed my neighbor's breaker bar and the sucker popped right off.
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October 5th, 2011, 05:11 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Awesome!!! Must have been over zealous with the torque wrench at the factory.
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October 22nd, 2011, 07:47 PM | #21 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Marcus
Location: San Antonio, TX
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): Green '08 Ninja 250R Posts: 32
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I bought the T-Rex sliders and rear stand w/ spools after checking out this DIY. The shipping only took 2 days! Granted, they were only going from Dallas to San Antonio, and I being in state I had to pay tax. Initial impression is that everything is made from high quality parts and very sturdy
I got the 10mm black aluminum spools and gold galvanized rear stand. The spools screwed in perfectly, and the stand was easy to put together and works great. I used both this DIY (thanks for the pics!) and the included instructions to help me with the slider installation. Everything went smoothly up until step 10, but I'll get to that in a moment. One thing I noted is that I would not have been able to remove the engine bolt without using a jack and piece of wood to support the engine. I was literally putting the fairings back on after having installing the brackets before I noticed that the left slider bolt would not screw in to the bracket correctly. Apparently the threads are screwed up in the bracket, because after 20 minutes of trying both bolts and from both sides of the bracket I can't get them to go more than a turn or two into the bracket I kinda wish I had played around with the parts before hand and noticed the threading issue before I had my bike torn apart, but there's nothing I can do about it now except wait for Monday to call T-Rex and get them to send a replacement bracket. |
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October 22nd, 2011, 09:11 PM | #22 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Dan
Location: Mississauga
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250 Ninja - Soon Posts: 96
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Quote:
or go to your local hardware store get the correct tap and re thread that hole your self, unless of course it's completely messed up, then a new bracket will be required for sure |
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October 23rd, 2011, 01:34 AM | #23 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Sorry to hear about your bracket. Their customer service is very responsive and I'm sure they will help resolve the problem. Good luck and I'm glad that my DIY was helpful.
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October 23rd, 2011, 07:29 AM | #24 |
Winging It In Life
Name: Umar
Location: SoCal
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R; 2011 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.
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I've been checking that site every so often. I'm definitely going to order my framesliders and spools from them.
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2011 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Bought - Apr 22, 2011; Sold - Feb 17, 2015) 2010 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Bought - May 01, 2017; Current) |
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October 25th, 2011, 04:32 PM | #25 |
Kamikaze Squirrel
Name: Zach
Location: NJ
Join Date: Sep 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250r Posts: 300
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Do the t rex kawasaki bar ends fit a 250?
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January 24th, 2012, 12:48 PM | #26 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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January 24th, 2012, 03:53 PM | #27 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Solon
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (sold), 2007 SV650s (deer wrecked), 2010 Suzuki SV650S Posts: 334
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Do these frame sliders get in the way of rejetting and carb/air box tinkering?
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January 24th, 2012, 04:00 PM | #28 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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January 24th, 2012, 09:42 PM | #29 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Solon
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Kawasaki Ninja 250R (sold), 2007 SV650s (deer wrecked), 2010 Suzuki SV650S Posts: 334
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March 23rd, 2012, 09:52 PM | #30 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Chadi
Location: Ottawa
Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Ninja 250R Posts: 67
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Just installed these sliders and spoolers. Very impressed by the build quality but not so much with the instructions from T-Rex. Luckily we have this DIY.
The hardest part for me was removing the long 10mm bolt. I ended up hammering the new bolt which pushed the OEM bolt out. And even then when it got to the other end the Engine dropped slightly (despite the fact that I had a a jack underneath) and it took some effort to get it all the way out. If you're going to do this careful not to bust the radiator hose. Thanks for the DIY |
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April 23rd, 2012, 10:49 PM | #31 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 2
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Can anyone post a frontal shot of the bike with the sliders? I'm looking to see how far they protrude out from the fairings and everything else.
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April 29th, 2012, 10:26 AM | #32 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kristoffer
Location: San Jose
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 (sold) Posts: 110
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I got some of their spools when I bought a stand and I somehow ended up stripping the threads with the spool screw. But they of course screwed into my friends bike no problem...
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May 29th, 2012, 02:23 AM | #33 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: derek
Location: 114, Taman Hillview, Jalan Datuk Mohd. Musa
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250R Ninja Posts: 3
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dragonboy,
I'm from Kuching Malaysia. Thanks for the write up and recommendation. I ordered 1 set from T-Rex and get it installed, pretty satisfied with the quality. Attached a few pics after install plus photo of radiator cover and engine cover, hugger Just the printing of the wording on the slider had been replace with sticker. s04.jpg s05.jpg s06.jpg s08.jpg h03.jpg IMG_1293.jpg |
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May 29th, 2012, 01:03 PM | #34 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Awesome! I really like your radiator cover. I hate seeing the tiny header pipes and it covers it up quite nicely. How much was that thing?
BTW, keep an eye out for my next DIY. Pretty cool. Quote:
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May 29th, 2012, 10:39 PM | #35 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: derek
Location: 114, Taman Hillview, Jalan Datuk Mohd. Musa
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 250R Ninja Posts: 3
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June 6th, 2012, 04:15 PM | #36 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Cool, I prefer the lower one and it makes a big visual difference. BTW, I just posted a DIY on installing the new T-Rex exhaust slider here.
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July 3rd, 2012, 03:54 PM | #37 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Han
Location: Columbia, MD
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R SE Posts: 77
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This may sound like a stupid questions, but how did you guys remove the engine bolt? I tried to remove it but couldn't because of the hose from the radiator. I didn't feel like removing the hose and having to deal with flushing the coolant and etc. I feel like I'm missing something here.
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July 3rd, 2012, 04:15 PM | #38 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Good question, I used a socket extension and pushed the hose aside to remove the bolt. Do not drain or remove the hose. Also don't worry about pinching it. It's rubber and will bounce back.
Hope this helps. Quote:
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July 3rd, 2012, 04:25 PM | #39 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Han
Location: Columbia, MD
Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R SE Posts: 77
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Did the bolt slide out fairly easy for you? I had to fight mine to even move. Is that normal? I'm wondering if I didn't jack the engine enough to the point where the engine weight was pushing down on the bolt. Or is that normal?
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July 3rd, 2012, 05:05 PM | #40 |
ninjette.org member
Name: JT
Location: NorCal
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R SE Green Machine, 2011 250R SE White Lightning Posts: 155
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Yes, keep lifting but it gets hairy if you're balancing on just the rear stand and a floor jack under the oil pan. Also, remember to place a piece of wood or something between the jack and underbelly. Probably overkill but didn't want to scratch anything.
It's next to impossible to remove that bolt without lifting up/supporting engine. Take your time and it will come out. Check the how-to again to make sure you didn't miss any steps. JT |
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