October 11th, 2011, 08:40 AM | #1 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Warning: Stop buying the Tridon EL12 Flasher relay
I wanted to warn people away from buying the Tridon EL-12 Flasher Relay. Please please please stop buying them. They do not work with 4 LED blinkers. They are ok if you only have front or rear LED blinkers, but will not work if you have all 4. I understand that it has 2 prongs and makes it easy to install, but it just won't work when you switch to 4 LED's. I get asked at least once a week about helping someone troubleshoot their blinkers and it invariably leads back to their EL12 relay.
Here are 2 PROVEN options: 1. Tridon EP34 relay. Can be found at just about any autoparts store, or can be easily ordered from amazon. It has 3 prongs, each marked B,L,&E. You ground the E pin on the relay. To do this, you get about 12" of wire, attach a 14ga female spade connector to one end and a ring terminal on the other end. You slip the female spade connector onto the E-pin, then bolt the ring terminal to a ground somewhere on your bike. 2. CF12ANL-01 flasher relay- 2 prongs so you don't need to add any ground wires, but you will likely need to order from that website. Those relays aren't found at your local auto store or amazon.
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October 11th, 2011, 10:33 AM | #2 |
ninjette.org dude
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Thanks, Tri.
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October 11th, 2011, 11:35 AM | #3 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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No problem Alex. I just wanted to make a public service announcement
It's funny if you google the EL12 relay, you'll find other bike forum posts that are asking why they're having problems with 4 LED blinkers and the EL12. It's not just on our bikes, it's widespread. I think I read in one of our DIY's about using the EL12 and it being ok, but I also believe that the person didn't have 4 LED blinkers.
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October 11th, 2011, 02:00 PM | #4 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: k
Location: nys
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thanks for the warning !
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October 11th, 2011, 02:13 PM | #5 |
wat
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Hey tri, i just installed 4 led turn signals but they don't flash! can you help me?
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October 11th, 2011, 02:18 PM | #6 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Haha. Yeah, sell your bike
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October 11th, 2011, 04:59 PM | #7 |
Ridin Dirty
Name: Ed
Location: Delaware
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i would be one of these once a week people
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October 11th, 2011, 05:27 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Nice timing with this post. I just ordered led flushmounts and an integrated taillight last night.
Of those 2 options which is better? |
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October 11th, 2011, 05:50 PM | #9 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Neither is better than the other. Just pick the one you feel you will be ok with.
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October 12th, 2011, 06:01 AM | #10 |
Sexy Beast
Name: Mat
Location: Tampa
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I just ordered the bottom one
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October 12th, 2011, 06:40 AM | #11 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Can the CF12ANL-01 plug into the stock connector? The bike is not "American" and it says it's typical for "American" automobiles.
This CF-12AN-L on eBay seems to require ground though there is no mention in the description. |
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October 12th, 2011, 07:45 AM | #12 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Paul (Momaru) highly recommends the CF12ANL-01 and from looking at the pin placement, it shouldn't have a problem plugging into the 250R. As far as needing a ground, if it does, then I'm sure you guys can figure it out.
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October 14th, 2011, 02:30 PM | #13 |
That rider dude.
Name: Eric
Location: Orlando, Fl.
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 White Ninja 250 SE. Posts: A lot.
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Edit Never mind. EP34 works great. Thanks!
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Mods: flushmount Led front binkers, diode mod, pazzo levers, clear tank pad, racing replica grips, bike monkeys integrated tal light, zx-2r vinyls, rearsets, red bar ends, and more red accented stuff. Last futzed with by Mr.E; October 16th, 2011 at 12:05 PM. |
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October 14th, 2011, 02:33 PM | #14 |
That rider dude.
Name: Eric
Location: Orlando, Fl.
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2011 White Ninja 250 SE. Posts: A lot.
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EDIT for this post: Nevermind, I notice it was just a random wire that looked like it was in the back of the relay, lol.
Another edit: Never mind. I got it to work. I connected it wrong. Sorry. Btw, the blinkers look great. Thanks! lol
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Mods: flushmount Led front binkers, diode mod, pazzo levers, clear tank pad, racing replica grips, bike monkeys integrated tal light, zx-2r vinyls, rearsets, red bar ends, and more red accented stuff. |
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October 15th, 2011, 08:47 AM | #15 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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I use the LF1-S with the FLAT connectors from superbrightleds.com. It's plug and play, and so far, I have had any issues with LED signals on front and back. Only thing you need to use it is a ziptie to keep it secured, as the mounting tab is not the same as the stock one.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2Fflashers.htm |
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October 16th, 2011, 07:27 AM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 159
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Used the EP34 with my integrated taillight that I installed yesterday. Works perfectly.
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October 20th, 2011, 12:44 PM | #17 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Kane
Location: Las Vegas
Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250 Posts: 40
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wow, im lucky i stopped by the forum today. I was going to buy a relay today after school. Thanks brrraaaaah
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March 5th, 2012, 03:54 PM | #18 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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I need to bump this again. Still getting messaged about people with EL-12 Relays. Soon, I'll start carrying a new flasher that will be plug and play! No extra wire to ground.
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March 6th, 2012, 12:53 AM | #19 |
ninjette.org guru
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September 24th, 2012, 12:17 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Chris
Location: Portland
Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R Posts: 2
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Heads up, the EP34 does not work with all LED's. Sadly, I found this out. I recently put LED's on the back. Worked fine. Put some on the front. Now everything just turns on when I use the left or right signals. These are what I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270593932476...84.m1497.l2649 Any ides on how to get them to flash. Yes, the E pin is grounded to the battery. Thanks for any help |
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September 24th, 2012, 12:32 PM | #21 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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It does work. It's not the relay at fault. You need a diode kit. http://modmy250.com/LP.html
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September 24th, 2012, 12:47 PM | #22 | |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Chris
Location: Portland
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Quote:
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October 18th, 2012, 09:16 AM | #23 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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PAGING @CThunder-blue!
Hello, Tri. You seem to be the guy to ask about this. First of all, the Tridon EP34 energizes the extra prong when the lights blink off, correct? So the power alternates between blinkers and the third prong (ground) rather than simply switching on and off to the blinkers? If so, then I want to use the constant power going to it while the blinkers are active as a trigger for another relay. This other relay will turn off my brake and tail lights while the turn signal are active. Don't worry, I intend to have auxiliary brake and tail lights. This is purely to increase contrast with the cheap integrated one I already have. Now, I obviously can't use the CF12ANL-01 flasher relay to trigger the second relay because the power must be flowing intermittently through both sides while the signals are active. I still have a lot of questions you might be able to help me out with. I think I've figured out how to wire in auxiliary brake and running lights and have the original ones shut off while the blinkers are active. If I wire a series of brake lights and a series of running lights I can then use a relay with a couple diodes to create a switched common ground after the first bulb in each series. Will this work? I'm worried that the power will not take the newly opened path to ground that the relay opens up and will still light up the second light in each series. There will be a voltage drop from the diodes. About the diagram: LTS = Left Turn Signals RTS = Right Turn Signals DI = Dash Indicator R = Running Light AR = Auxiliary Running Light B = Brake Light AB = Auxiliary Brake Light The switch at the top represents both brake light switches. The replacement three-prong Tridon EP34 flasher relay is the one on the bottom. The split power I show going into it would actually be internal to it (shared/common terminal). That's how I imagine it works if the supply is constant and diverts to ground when the lights blink off yet stops when the selection is canceled. This will be the trigger for the second relay (top one), which opens up a ground after the first set of lights in the series. The diodes keep each series of bulbs from feeding power through each other so that the brake light doesn't light with the running light and such. I only diagrammed the turn signals and dash indicator so that it was obvious what that two-way normal-open switch did. So, the top relay is triggered when the turn signals are flashing and makes a new ground for AB and AR before B and R. It's still connected to B and R, but my understanding is that electricity takes the shortest path of least resistance. That said, the voltage drop across the diodes may mean it isn't the path of least resistance. Will it work? If not, how would you recommend I do this? THREE relays? |
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October 18th, 2012, 11:31 AM | #24 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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It's a misconception that Ground = discharge. The third prong on the EP34 supplies voltage. Electrons flow from negative to positive. What we think of as ground is actually the bike's system to provide voltage. It's the reason why people always tell you to disconnect the negative cable from the battery before the positive.
I've been reading your posts and I would suggest using SPDT relays. http://www.bugmanweb.com/gsxr/turnsignal.html scroll down to half the page and check out the "Madness" method. It's what you want to do.
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October 18th, 2012, 05:41 PM | #25 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Yes, I've heard that but it's still conceptually the same, right? Like lightning actually comes from the ground but it still takes the shortest path to get "to" it from above (tree, pole, lightning rod, person with no trees around, etc). It looks like I've got a lot of reading to do. It should all be applicable here and elsewhere in the future, so I'm sure it's worth it even for such a small thing as my tail light issue. |
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February 1st, 2014, 03:43 PM | #26 |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
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Free bump since hey, I've got an EL12 currently on my bike.
Thankfully Napa had an EP34 on hand.
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February 3rd, 2014, 01:41 PM | #27 | |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
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Quote:
If you disconnect the positive first and happen to touch your wrench against the vehicle, you'll be directly shorting it out. If you disconnect the negative terminal from the vehicle first, then you're not completing any circuit if you happen to bridge the positive terminal to the vehicle while you're removing it. Disconnecting either cable from its terminal breaks the circuit. Doing the negative first removes all the nearby metal from being a conductor in the circuit though, which then makes it safer to do the positive. |
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February 3rd, 2014, 02:07 PM | #28 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Quote:
To take your example, if you disconnect the neg first, then you bridge the positive to the chassis, nothing will happen either. There's no current drawn from the negative side of the battery.
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February 5th, 2014, 07:26 PM | #29 | |||
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
If you remove the positive first and accidentally touch metal, you're grounding out the positive terminal directly through your wrench (i.e. completing the circuit between positive and negative). Since the negative terminal is wired to the chassis, touching the back of your wrench to the metal while trying to remove the positive is the equivalent of laying your wrench directly across both terminals of the battery. Regardless of which terminal you start with, the circuit is equally broken after the first terminal is disconnected (making the second terminal "dead" while you're working on it). However, one way is much safer in case you do happen to slip while removing the first one. In an older "positive ground" vehicle, you'd want to disconnect the positive first to avoid accidentally shorting out the negative terminal against the positive chassis. It has nothing to do with which way the electrons flow, but with the physical layout of metal (which happens to be connected to the electrical system) around the terminals. And getting back to the original topic of flashers, the EX500 guys have found that some off-brand EP34 "equivalents" (like the Blazer FL34) don't work properly with LEDs. As soon as they got an actual Tridon EP34, it worked exactly like it was supposed to. The LF1-S-FLAT from SuperBrightLEDs.com (as mentioned above by chone) is a PnP replacement on the later EX500 too, and has worked flawlessly for me with OEM bulbs and LED replacements. It's worth a couple extra bucks to me to be able to just plug it in, rather than taking the time to chop up my harness to match a generic flasher. |
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February 5th, 2014, 07:58 PM | #30 | |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
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Quote:
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February 6th, 2014, 10:34 AM | #31 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Quote:
TLDR- just disconnect the negative side of the battery to avoid any unpleasant surprises.
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February 6th, 2014, 10:34 AM | #32 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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I thought you had gotten the Tridon Ep34. haha.
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February 6th, 2014, 10:42 AM | #33 |
Certified looney toon
Name: Teri
Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV)
Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 102k+ miles -- 2014 CB500X, 42k+ miles Posts: A lot.
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Nope, Napa only had their version. Thought EP34 was EP34.
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