fan noise when the bike is on

[yogurtpooh]

Hi. I just picked up a really used ninja today (about 15,000 miles)
and as soon as the key is turned on in the ignition, i hear a fan noise and hot air being blow into my neck from the bike. I live in vietnam, so it's quite hot all the time - around 90 to 100 degrees all the time. However, after one night of not running it, the fan immediately starts when the ignition is on. When the engine starts, I can still hear the fan being on. I haven't driven the bike fast enough to know if it turns off or not. Is this normal?

Are the ninjas able to start in gear if I hold the clutch down?

[Christofini]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Hi. I just picked up a really used ninja today (about 15,000 miles)
and as soon as the key is turned on in the ignition, i hear a fan noise and hot air being blow into my neck from the bike. I live in vietnam, so it's quite hot all the time - around 90 to 100 degrees all the time. However, after one night of not running it, the fan immediately starts when the ignition is on. When the engine starts, I can still hear the fan being on. I haven't driven the bike fast enough to know if it turns off or not. Is this normal?

Are the ninjas able to start in gear if I hold the clutch down?

They should be able to start in gear with the clutch in and kickstand up.

The fan usually kicks in when the temp gauge is around the 80% mark. It sounds like your fan switch is bust or the fan was wired to be always on (I see it a lot in the South around here - bikes overheat all the time).

There's no problem with it running all the time, apart from maybe delaying your engine warmup. It will wear out the fan motor faster, though I have mine always on via a manual switch and its lasted 2 years already.

[yogurtpooh]

That's really weird. I can't seem to start my bike when it's in gear.
I think my clutch might be really worn then because with the clutch fully in, the bike still moves.

I just woke up at 4 AM to test it and the air temp outside is around 75 degrees and the bike wasn't started for 12 hours and the fan immediately came on.

I don't want it to be always on. What should I check for first? Could it be a low coolant problem or dirty air filters? The previous owner didn't seem like he maintained it well.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

That's really weird. I can't seem to start my bike when it's in gear.
I think my clutch might be really worn then because with the clutch fully in, the bike still moves.

I just woke up at 4 AM to test it and the air temp outside is around 75 degrees and the bike wasn't started for 12 hours and the fan immediately came on.

I don't want it to be always on. What should I check for first? Could it be a low coolant problem or dirty air filters? The previous owner didn't seem like he maintained it well.

Welcome Lucas !!!

Try completing a full service for the bike.
Now, you are paying attention to what you see; however, many things may be in need of your prompt attention, especially lubrication.

Your fan is just a back up for when the radiator is not able to cool enough (due to slow riding, long stops, etc.).
It is commanded by a thermo-switch located on the left-rear side of your radiator (to sense leaving temperature) and that in your case is either broken or removed.

Read all this good information:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cooling_system

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Service_Schedule

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Underst...afety_switches

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checkin..._safety_switch

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/New_Riders

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

That's really weird. I can't seem to start my bike when it's in gear.
I think my clutch might be really worn then because with the clutch fully in, the bike still moves.

I just woke up at 4 AM to test it and the air temp outside is around 75 degrees and the bike wasn't started for 12 hours and the fan immediately came on.

I don't want it to be always on. What should I check for first? Could it be a low coolant problem or dirty air filters? The previous owner didn't seem like he maintained it well.

It shouldn't do that. Most likely the cable needs adjustment.

Read through this section - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

As Moto noted, having the fan running constantly would suggest the temperature sending unit isn't working properly. Its job is to turn the fan on when the temp gets above a set level and turn it off when it drops back down. I would say yours is stuck in the on position.

[yogurtpooh]

Thank you.
I think the clutch cable is definitely on its way out. Here in Vietnam, OEM products are not availble for the ninja250, so I have to just get a clutch cable that's closes enough for now. I'll order one from the states and have it shipped here.

As far as the fan goes, I will check the coolant first. If all is well, then
it's likely the temperature switch that needs to be replaced right? Or if it's stuck, can I just clean it or something? But in the mean time, is it okay to ride around with the fan always on like that?

is this the temperature switch? http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-12-KAWASA...8d97d9&vxp=mtr

please excuse my ignorance.

[broilmebk]

Worn clutch cable shouldn't affect starting bike in gear. There's a clutch switch that takes care of that.

[yogurtpooh]

the cable is so loose that when I hold the clutch in, the bike still moves.
I think that definitely affects why I can't start the bike in gear. It's about to snap soon. There's definitely something wrong with it. I'm awaiting a part to get shipped over to me.

What clutch switch are you talking about? Please link me to a diagram or picture. Thank you.

[JohnnyBravo]

When you pull the clutch in its not engaged and your bike should move... When you let the clutch out it is engaged an should not move unless in neutral or you are riding

[yogurtpooh]

Yeah. there is something seriously wrong with my cable. It's all loose. The previous owner did tell me about it. When I hold the clutch completely in, the bike moves as if I was in the friction zone. I live in Vietnam so parts take a while to get to me.
I also can not shift from first to N when the engine is on because of the worn cable.

Btw, should I order a clutch safety switch even though I can not start the bike in gear? I don't hear any clicking at all when I press the clutch like I do when I press the front brake handle. Anything I should do to double check whether or not it actually works? I read the FAQ, but it doesn't apply to someone with a worn clutch cable like me.

Also, my bike will start with the kickstand down, is that normal?

[jkv45]

I expect a new cable and proper adjustment will cure the clutch-related issue and there isn't anything else that needs to be replaced the cure that problem.

[yogurtpooh]

Originally Posted by broilmebk

Worn clutch cable shouldn't affect starting bike in gear. There's a clutch switch that takes care of that.

I can't completely close the clutch, so I don't think I can start the bike in gear.
With the clutch handle completely pressed, the bike feels like it's in its friction zone, and it rides. So I think that's the culprit.

[yogurtpooh]

Originally Posted by jkv45

I expect a new cable and proper adjustment will cure the clutch-related issue and there isn't anything else that needs to be replaced the cure that problem.

Yes. Too bad I have to wait at least 3 weeks for the clutch cable to come...
But all of my problems (aside from the fan) seems to be from the extremely loose clutch cable?

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Yes. Too bad I have to wait at least 3 weeks for the clutch cable to come...
But all of my problems (aside from the fan) seems to be from the extremely loose clutch cable?

I would say so, unless there is excessive wear in the clutch mechanism or plates.

[vmax]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Yes. Too bad I have to wait at least 3 weeks for the clutch cable to come...
But all of my problems (aside from the fan) seems to be from the extremely loose clutch cable?

You can search for other motor cable from the same length or longer than the original cable, so no need to use the oem cable. I use a Yamaha MX 135 cable

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Thank you.
I think the clutch cable is definitely on its way out. Here in Vietnam, OEM products are not availble for the ninja250, so I have to just get a clutch cable that's closes enough for now. I'll order one from the states and have it shipped here.

As far as the fan goes, I will check the coolant first. If all is well, then
it's likely the temperature switch that needs to be replaced right? Or if it's stuck, can I just clean it or something? But in the mean time, is it okay to ride around with the fan always on like that?

is this the temperature switch? http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-12-KAWASA...8d97d9&vxp=mtr

please excuse my ignorance.

You are not ignorant; just new to this.
The important thing is that you ask questions.

What year is your Ninja?

In countries with limited resources, modifying cables is a normal thing:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Copied from
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...ling_system%3F

"To test the switch, attach two wires to the terminals on the switch, and then to the test leads of an ohmmeter or multimeter. Drop the switch in a pan of boiling water, and watch the resistance go from open to near-zero. The switch is supposed to close (fan comes on) at between 94 and 100 degrees C as the temperature is rising, and open (fan goes back off) at 90C when the temperature is falling. Resistance spec is less than .5 ohm when closed, more than 1 megohm when open."

Here are some additional links that may help with your questions above:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Controls_%26_Cables

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Checkin..._safety_switch

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleanin..._clutch_switch

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Clutch_%26_Transmission

[yogurtpooh]

Thank you for your responses.

Is the clutch supposed to click like the brake handle when you pull it in?
Mine does not, does that mean the clutch switch is bad?

If the bike is in gear, is it possible to roll the bike back if I'm backing out of a space or do I have to put in in N before I back up?

My bike is a 2009.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Thank you for your responses.

Is the clutch supposed to click like the brake handle when you pull it in?
Mine does not, does that mean the clutch switch is bad?

If the bike is in gear, is it possible to roll the bike back if I'm backing out of a space or do I have to put in in N before I back up?

My bike is a 2009.

You are welcome

No, the clutch does not click; the switch is very small and smooth.
Actually, it is very easily damaged when you re-install the clutch lever or handle.

Yes, with the clutch in (lever is pulled all the way), the engine gets disconnected from the transmission , chain and rear wheel.
The several discs of the clutch do not separate much at all, reason for which you will feel the viscous resistance of the oil between those.

It is always harder to move the bike when the engine is cold because the oil is more viscous.
After the engine is hot, that resistance to movement while in-gear and clutch-in is noticeably reduced.

You will also feel less resistance when engaged in second gear than when engaged in first, because the discs will rotate less respect to each other in the first case.

[yogurtpooh]

Hey!! So the clutch cable finally came and I got to finally ride her after waiting for a month. This is one fun bike. definitely awesome gear ratios after 1st gear.

But
It still won't start if the bike is in gear with the hand clutch held in. What could be wrong?

How soft or hard is the hand clutch supposed to be? What's an ideal thread length between the big round screw and the smaller piece?

Is it normal for the bike to get really hot really fast? I was only going about 40 miles an hour (i live in Vietnam - crazy traffic and slow speeds) for about 15 minutes down the street, but the bike was already really warm on my thighs.

Lastly, when I got back home, the rear brake stopped working!! I could push it down quite easily and there was no braking power. I almost hit a wall because I use mostly my rear brake more than my front brake. I waited for about 10 minutes and tried it again and it worked like normal. Any ideas? The bike probably hasn't been serviced for a while, and I'm pretty sure I was riding the brakes a little bit because it was my first time riding it. I'm coming from a bike with rear drum brakes. What should I do about this?

thank you!

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Hey!! So the clutch cable finally came and I got to finally ride her after waiting for a month. This is one fun bike. definitely awesome gear ratios after 1st gear.

But
It still won't start if the bike is in gear with the hand clutch held in. What could be wrong?

How soft or hard is the hand clutch supposed to be? What's an ideal thread length between the big round screw and the smaller piece?

Is it normal for the bike to get really hot really fast? I was only going about 40 miles an hour (i live in Vietnam - crazy traffic and slow speeds) for about 15 minutes down the street, but the bike was already really warm on my thighs.

Lastly, when I got back home, the rear brake stopped working!! I could push it down quite easily and there was no braking power. I almost hit a wall because I use mostly my rear brake more than my front brake. I waited for about 10 minutes and tried it again and it worked like normal. Any ideas? The bike probably hasn't been serviced for a while, and I'm pretty sure I was riding the brakes a little bit because it was my first time riding it. I'm coming from a bike with rear drum brakes. What should I do about this?

thank you!

Check the previous links that I posted about safety switches, clutch adjustment and maintenance service.

If the brake fluid is old (more than two years), it has absorbed a lot of humidity from the air.
There is abundant air humidity in Viet Nam and brake fluid loves absorbing that water.

As you have been braking so much and possibly dragging the rear brake inadvertently, the excessive heat coming from the friction between pads and disc turns that moisture dissolved in the brake fluid into steam.

The expansive effect of steam pushes the pads against the disc, generating more heat that induces more steam.
When you put pressure on the pedal, there is a huge bubble of steam between your foot and the pads (just like having a very soft spring between both).
Besides, when pads drag for long time, they fade or lose much of the braking effect and the heat can warp the disc.

All the above catastrophic things can be avoided by simply replacing the brake fluid and cleaning the calipers.

If the situation persists, the pads need to be replaced.
Besides the following links, please check our Riding Skills section and learn about the proper braking techniques.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...brake_fluid%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Brake_caliper_rebuild

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_..._brake_pads%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/My_brak...ating_normally

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Hey!! So the clutch cable finally came and I got to finally ride her after waiting for a month. This is one fun bike. definitely awesome gear ratios after 1st gear.

But
It still won't start if the bike is in gear with the hand clutch held in. What could be wrong?

How soft or hard is the hand clutch supposed to be? What's an ideal thread length between the big round screw and the smaller piece?

Is it normal for the bike to get really hot really fast? I was only going about 40 miles an hour (i live in Vietnam - crazy traffic and slow speeds) for about 15 minutes down the street, but the bike was already really warm on my thighs.

Lastly, when I got back home, the rear brake stopped working!! I could push it down quite easily and there was no braking power. I almost hit a wall because I use mostly my rear brake more than my front brake. I waited for about 10 minutes and tried it again and it worked like normal. Any ideas? The bike probably hasn't been serviced for a while, and I'm pretty sure I was riding the brakes a little bit because it was my first time riding it. I'm coming from a bike with rear drum brakes. What should I do about this?

thank you!

On the first one - as Moto noted - check the clutch switch. That would make the most sense.

As far as the rear brake - use the front for almost everything - not the rear. When you really need to stop, the rear isn't going to help you much.

Check the condition and level of the fluid, and probably bleed the brakes.

[yogurtpooh]

Should I replace The brake lines to steel brake lines anyways. The bike is from 2009 with 16,000 miles. Would it be easier to lock up Thr wheels in an emergency situation? I'm worried steel ones are too strong. Most of my riding is in stop and go traffic. 40 miles an hour with lots of braking. Crazy people over here. Would it be better just to replace the lines with oem? can someone help me with Thr part numbers and banjo numbers. thanks

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

Should I replace The brake lines to steel brake lines anyways. The bike is from 2009 with 16,000 miles. Would it be easier to lock up Thr wheels in an emergency situation? I'm worried steel ones are too strong. Most of my riding is in stop and go traffic. 40 miles an hour with lots of braking. Crazy people over here. Would it be better just to replace the lines with oem? can someone help me with Thr part numbers and banjo numbers. thanks

Rubber hoses are fine in any bike from 2009 with 16,000 miles.
Your rubber hoses do not need replacement, only the brake fluid.

Brake with both brakes simultaneously, while pulling the clutch in and closing the throttle.
If the rear wheel locks up, keep pressing on the pedal and let the tire skid.
If the front wheel locks up, release the lever immediately and reapply more gently.

[yogurtpooh]

thanks. my caliper was seized up and not working properly, so I'm goin to replace it with a Nissan brand one. thank you.
any braking below 50 kilometers and hour and it was fine, anything above 50 and no brake pressure whatsoever.
changing and bleeding the brake fluid didn't work.

[yogurtpooh]

i changed the fan switch to a new one and my fan still runs on.

any thoughts? maybe the previous owner wired it to always run on?

is this bad long term?

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

i changed the fan switch to a new one and my fan still runs on.

any thoughts? maybe the previous owner wired it to always run on?

is this bad long term?

You don't want it running all the time.

A normal temperature sender should have power on one side but not the other until the switch reaches the set temp - then it should send power to the fan.

Check to be sure that's what is happening. If you have power on both sides when the engine is cold, I would say the new switch is bad - but that's unusual.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by yogurtpooh

i changed the fan switch to a new one and my fan still runs on.

any thoughts? maybe the previous owner wired it to always run on?

is this bad long term?

maybe you could get an electronic multimeter and investigate your wiring to see what the previous owner has changed

[yogurtpooh]

Another question I have is how many threads does the clutch adjuster screw supposed to have out of the housing, I keep turning and playing with the screw but can't seem to get what feels right. Either The clutch feels too hard or soft. What are the stock settings? thanks