DIY- Woodcraft Clipon Install - Page 12

wandyhee · November 7th, 2011, 12:01 PM

thanks for the write up, would love to replace mine with this woodcraft clip on

pop0tart · January 1st, 2012, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xer0x

Just a fyi for drilling the holes in the woodcraft clip on bars. I used a 7/64 bit and it fit perfect and snug!

Waaay too small. Xerox..you owe me 5 bucks for the 7/64 bit I bought.

I should have stuck with Kelly's recommendation.

Everyone else: go with a 7/32 bit.

ator · February 23rd, 2012, 04:08 PM

Installed my woodcrafts, thought I'd put up some pics

in the last pic you can see that with the bars turned as far as they go, the brake lever just ever so slightly touches(it's the same on both sides) But it's no big deal as the bars will never get turned that far while riding.

Kangxi · February 23rd, 2012, 04:31 PM

Hey Chris, what kind of bar ends are those?

ator · February 23rd, 2012, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trixter

did you cut your bars? I am getting the impression they are not as long as I thought they were

I got them because I needed 1-1.5 inches longer bars than stock and those do not look much longer if at all.

I have to put the front brake and a start/kill switch on the left bar in addition to the existing clutch. I need about 2 inches total for that. Do you have that much space on the left bar with the stock clutch perch?

While you have slid yours through a little further than I will the images make me think they wont be long enough.

No, I did not cut these at all. I believe the length is about the same as stock if not exactly the same length.

ator · February 23rd, 2012, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kangxi

Hey Chris, what kind of bar ends are those?

I don't remember what brand they are, I want to say driven? but not sure. I did get them from my local shop so who knows how long they had em sitting around. These were made for the stock type bars but with a longer screw and some rubber hose, they work just fine with these bars.

TheJimmyEnglish · February 23rd, 2012, 05:06 PM

I love my WC clip ons

ator · February 23rd, 2012, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trixter

hrm I thought they were about 12 inches where stock is 10.5. I will have to look at mine when I get home (get the bike March 3 just trying to get everything I need to be able to ride it before I get the bike).

Could you measure the length of the left grip, button cluster and the bar space that the clutch perch takes? As I dont yet have a bike I dont yet have those parts. That way I can mock it up with the parts I have and see what I am getting into.

Thanks

Definitely not 12 inches long, maybe with the plastic end plug in they are, but the actual silver part is about 11 inches. Factor in the mounting clamp and you lose another 1 3/4 inches of area to mount what you need.

ator · February 23rd, 2012, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trixter

http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin...on&key=12-4537

I will measure when I get home, if they are not I am gonna be a sad panda.

Alex · February 24th, 2012, 09:53 AM

Can I merge this with the main Woodcraft install DIY?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12960

ator · February 24th, 2012, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

Can I merge this with the main Woodcraft install DIY?

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12960

Sounds good to me.

ator · March 7th, 2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kangxi

Hey Chris, what kind of bar ends are those?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZX750-ZX7RR-...465b5d&vxp=mtr

CZroe · March 7th, 2012, 05:50 PM

I saw today that a Triumph Daytona 955i has clipons with a rise very similar to the SV650 clipons that many people use instead. The only problem I see is that the forks are 45mm, so it'd need a bit more shimming.

CZroe · March 31st, 2012, 10:31 PM

Just a warning: "universal" bar-ends don't always work with Woodcraft clip-on bars.

They DO fit the SV650 clip-ons that I never got around to installing (found a deal on these first).

The blue "universal" bar-ends that I bought have two aluminum sleeves that expand as a cone-shaped piece is threaded onto the bolt (the sleeves are slotted to allow this). Even before expansion, the outer sleeve is just too big to fit the inner diameter of the WC bars despite being the same outer diameter as the compatible SV650 bars. There's also a spacer against the bar end itself that's too thick to fit inside the bars. If I remove both the spacer and the outer sleeve, I can get it in but the cone has to expand the inner sleeve an extreme amount to contact the walls and, even then, it's only the tip, which allows the bar-end to wobble excessively. I'm thinking about wrapping it with tape or something to fill most of the gap before it expands or just switching to the SV650 bars and selling these. If I do try to fit them, I'll measure the inner diameter and get washers to make my own fitted spacer to stabilize it at the end of the bar and push the expanding sleeve deeper. The original spacer was solid but I'm going to try rubber. The Woodcraft bars already had the plastic plug bar-ends removed when I bought them.

00NissanNinja · March 31st, 2012, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Just a warning: "universal" bar-ends don't always work with Woodcraft clip-on bars.

They DO fit the SV650 clip-ons that I never got around to installing (found a deal on these first).

Yeah I had the same problem. But to get my bar ends on I just greased up the rubber expansion piece, that is supposed to make a snug fit, and jammed it in there. It hasn't budged since.

CZroe · March 31st, 2012, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00NissanNinja

Yeah I had the same problem. But to get my bar ends on I just greased up the rubber expansion piece, that is supposed to make a snug fit, and jammed it in there. It hasn't budged since.

Mine has no rubber.

I'll see if I can find an appropriately sized rubber tube.

00NissanNinja · April 2nd, 2012, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Mine has no rubber.

I'll see if I can find an appropriately sized rubber tube.

oh, yeah that would complicate things. I think kkim posted about using 5/32 fuel hose or something like that a while back (I think its in the DIY list tread)

CZroe · April 11th, 2012, 04:15 PM

I always like to read the official instructions first and then read the DIY to see where they may differ and decide which to follow from there, but I didn't get a sheet like kkim because I bought mine used. The Woodcraft website has a "Instructions" tab on the page for our product, but all I see is a big blank spot when I click it as if there were none. I even tried to look up instructions for other bikes (tried CBR 250R) and the same thing happens. Does anyone have the original instructions for me? I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Having read kkim's DIY anyway (it's all I had), I still have to wonder: Are there any tips for aligning them at the same angles on both sides? Also, are there any instructions for how I am supposed to tighten the clip ons onto the fork pistons? I mean, there is a gap between the two clamp pieces and randomly tightening down one side before the other will simply leave a gap twice as large on the other side. I doubt it has to be even, but I don't know if there is a preferred side to tighten down first or if I should aim for keeping them even or what.

00NissanNinja · April 16th, 2012, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Having read kkim's DIY anyway (it's all I had), I still have to wonder: Are there any tips for aligning them at the same angles on both sides? Also, are there any instructions for how I am supposed to tighten the clip ons onto the fork pistons? I mean, there is a gap between the two clamp pieces and randomly tightening down one side before the other will simply leave a gap twice as large on the other side. I doubt it has to be even, but I don't know if there is a preferred side to tighten down first or if I should aim for keeping them even or what.

I tightened them in a typical star like pattern just tightening each one a few turns each until snug. I got them approximately the same angle by pulling back on the bars and holding them there before tightening them snug.

choneofakind · April 17th, 2012, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

I still have to wonder: Are there any tips for aligning them at the same angles on both sides?

Turn the wheel as far as it will go. Get one bar snug where it should be, and measure its distance relative to a fixed point on the bodywork. Then turn the wheel back, and do the same for the other side, and make sure both measurements are the same. That should get it pretty close. The tricky part is eyeballing the angle of the levers to be the same.

ator · April 17th, 2012, 09:27 AM

Actually, based on the style of the tripple clamp, just pull each side down (towards you, bar end side) as far as they will go. This way, they will both be the same.

The tripple clamp will only let them go so far.

CZroe · April 17th, 2012, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ator

Actually, based on the style of the tripple clamp, just pull each side down (towards you, bar end side) as far as they will go. This way, they will both be the same.

The tripple clamp will only let them go so far.

But is that the best position for fitment and clearance?

ator · April 17th, 2012, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

But is that the best position for fitment and clearance?

As far as the woodcraft go, yes. If you could move them farther down I would, but wouldn't move them the other way at all.

kingkang204 · June 8th, 2012, 01:27 PM

So I just got mine the other day, but I'm having trouble installing them.

For the bar ends I read that you have to heat them to help with the red loctite, I don't have a butane torch so I tried using a lighter. I heated the screw for 2 minutes or so and tried to get it, didn't happen. I repeated this with longer intervals of heating. Will I actually need to use a butane torch? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks!

LoD575 · June 8th, 2012, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingkang204

So I just got mine the other day, but I'm having trouble installing them.

For the bar ends I read that you have to heat them to help with the red loctite, I don't have a butane torch so I tried using a lighter. I heated the screw for 2 minutes or so and tried to get it, didn't happen. I repeated this with longer intervals of heating. Will I actually need to use a butane torch? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks!

Vice grips on the screwdriver shaft. Push into the screwdriver to avoid stripping it out and use the added torque and grip of the vice grips to break the loctite.

RedOctober · June 8th, 2012, 01:37 PM

Do not be afraid to drill the bolt out

kingkang204 · June 8th, 2012, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoD575

Vice grips on the screwdriver shaft. Push into the screwdriver to avoid stripping it out and use the added torque and grip of the vice grips to break the loctite.

Okay! I'll try that. Should I still heat the screw or will this work without heat?

sharky nrk · June 8th, 2012, 01:50 PM

Cut the bar end weight in half leaving the stub of the bolt, then use a vice grip and she will turn right out.

LoD575 · June 8th, 2012, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingkang204

Okay! I'll try that. Should I still heat the screw or will this work without heat?

I did not have to heat the bolt at all.

CZroe · June 8th, 2012, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoD575

I did not have to heat the bolt at all.

Because I don't want your lucky experience to set expectations:
Some need heat even with all the torque in the world. I went through two pencil butane torches (wouldn't stay lit; kept blowing out), which ended up being almost exactly like holding a lighter to it. I used a T-handle socket wrench (like a breaker bar with a permanent extension) with a #3PH socket that fit the bar-end bolt perfectly. I had a ton or torque with plenty of force inward and there was no slipping (I didn't cam out): The metal of the screw head just plain cracked on each blade and turned to mush! There was simply no way to put enough force through the screw head to break the threads loose. I even tried an impact driver. It simply needed heat and I simply had to buy a proper torch.

lgk · June 8th, 2012, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoD575

I did not have to heat the bolt at all.

they used red loctite on my bar ends.
i had to use quite a bit of heat to get it out.

lgk · June 8th, 2012, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoD575

I did not have to heat the bolt at all.

they used red loctite on my bar ends.
i had to use quite a bit of heat to get it out.

sharky nrk · June 9th, 2012, 11:35 AM

I used a quality impact driver and broke the bit in two trying to get it loose, then it went in the bandsaw

shiroganeshinobi · June 9th, 2012, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lgk

they used red loctite on my bar ends.
i had to use quite a bit of heat to get it out.

I think I was heating and banging with an impact hammer for a good 10-15 minutes before mine broke loose. It was nuts but I luckily I only had to do one side.

OzzyDevil · June 15th, 2012, 02:55 PM

Hi i just read this thread and OMG i want clip-ons lol i live in Aust i'm 6"11 and i know i'm abit tall but who cares...

My question is i have a 2012 Ninja 250 so am i still be able to use the woodcraft clip-ons ??
I hope so anyway i don't think i will get rearsets coz i don't do track but looking into that down the track...

lgk · June 15th, 2012, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzzyDevil

Hi i just read this thread and OMG i want clip-ons lol i live in Aust i'm 6"11 and i know i'm abit tall but who cares...

My question is i have a 2012 Ninja 250 so am i still be able to use the woodcraft clip-ons ??
I hope so anyway i don't think i will get rearsets coz i don't do track but looking into that down the track...

The wood crafts do make the ninja feel like a larger bike.
imo, the posture and control seems better too.
the angle of the bars are not as adjustable as other rear sets, but the vertical has some play.

the rear sets are pretty durable unlike the stock ones, and the way the brake pedal is angled the you are less likely to lock up the rear brake.

i think they are both good purchases.

James13 · October 10th, 2012, 05:39 PM

Looks Good mate, im thinking about buying some clip on's myself, just wondering how the staring was. Do the bars hit the fairing or anything? would you recommend getting them?

andylawcc · October 10th, 2012, 06:34 PM

on top of heating it, get one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93481.html

you will rarely use it, but it be a godsend.

broilmebk · February 5th, 2013, 09:25 AM

So I've had mine on for about 5 months now. A couple months back I noticed a bit of fading in the exposed parts of the bar, but the other day I saw the fading was real obvious in the right light - not only the bars, but the mounting clip too. Anybody else have paint fading issues?
Attached is a pic I took last week for the stem clock. You might be able to see the fading throughout, but the fade on the right bar is super obvious and the first place it started changing color.
PS - don't pay any mind to the zip ties around the clutch lever holder

lgk · February 5th, 2013, 09:37 AM

my bars are also faded, but it took months for it to happen.
all the other parts are good though.

November 7th, 2011, 12:01 PM	#441
wandyhee ninjette.org member Name: andy Location: Borneo-Miri Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2010 250R FI, 2006 ZX10R Posts: 175	thanks for the write up, would love to replace mine with this woodcraft clip on __________________________________________________ I'm Selling wider (4.5" & 5") aftermarket Wheel for N250r/N300r/Z250/Z250r

February 23rd, 2012, 04:08 PM	#443
ator ninjette.org guru Name: Chris Location: Michigan Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250R Posts: 365	Woodcraft Clip ons Installed my woodcrafts, thought I'd put up some pics in the last pic you can see that with the bars turned as far as they go, the brake lever just ever so slightly touches(it's the same on both sides) But it's no big deal as the bars will never get turned that far while riding.

February 23rd, 2012, 05:06 PM	#447
TheJimmyEnglish ninjette.org guru Name: Andrew Location: Cleveland TN Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Red Posts: 316	I love my WC clip ons __________________________________________________ My YouTube Channel

February 24th, 2012, 09:53 AM	#450
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Can I merge this with the main Woodcraft install DIY? http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=12960 __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

June 8th, 2012, 01:27 PM	#464
kingkang204 ninjette.org guru Name: Matthew Location: Washington Join Date: Aug 2010 Motorcycle(s): Bike-less, Can I ride yours? Posts: 318	So I just got mine the other day, but I'm having trouble installing them. For the bar ends I read that you have to heat them to help with the red loctite, I don't have a butane torch so I tried using a lighter. I heated the screw for 2 minutes or so and tried to get it, didn't happen. I repeated this with longer intervals of heating. Will I actually need to use a butane torch? Is there anything else I can try? Thanks! __________________________________________________ RR stands for Responsible Riding... Right?

February 23rd, 2012, 04:31 PM	#444
Kangxi OMRRA 701 Name: . Location: PDX Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 'jette, R6 Posts: 96	Hey Chris, what kind of bar ends are those?

March 7th, 2012, 05:50 PM	#453
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	I saw today that a Triumph Daytona 955i has clipons with a rise very similar to the SV650 clipons that many people use instead. The only problem I see is that the forks are 45mm, so it'd need a bit more shimming.

March 31st, 2012, 10:31 PM	#454
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	Just a warning: "universal" bar-ends don't always work with Woodcraft clip-on bars. They DO fit the SV650 clip-ons that I never got around to installing (found a deal on these first). The blue "universal" bar-ends that I bought have two aluminum sleeves that expand as a cone-shaped piece is threaded onto the bolt (the sleeves are slotted to allow this). Even before expansion, the outer sleeve is just too big to fit the inner diameter of the WC bars despite being the same outer diameter as the compatible SV650 bars. There's also a spacer against the bar end itself that's too thick to fit inside the bars. If I remove both the spacer and the outer sleeve, I can get it in but the cone has to expand the inner sleeve an extreme amount to contact the walls and, even then, it's only the tip, which allows the bar-end to wobble excessively. I'm thinking about wrapping it with tape or something to fill most of the gap before it expands or just switching to the SV650 bars and selling these. If I do try to fit them, I'll measure the inner diameter and get washers to make my own fitted spacer to stabilize it at the end of the bar and push the expanding sleeve deeper. The original spacer was solid but I'm going to try rubber. The Woodcraft bars already had the plastic plug bar-ends removed when I bought them.

April 11th, 2012, 04:15 PM	#458
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	I always like to read the official instructions first and then read the DIY to see where they may differ and decide which to follow from there, but I didn't get a sheet like kkim because I bought mine used. The Woodcraft website has a "Instructions" tab on the page for our product, but all I see is a big blank spot when I click it as if there were none. I even tried to look up instructions for other bikes (tried CBR 250R) and the same thing happens. Does anyone have the original instructions for me? I would appreciate it. Thanks! Having read kkim's DIY anyway (it's all I had), I still have to wonder: Are there any tips for aligning them at the same angles on both sides? Also, are there any instructions for how I am supposed to tighten the clip ons onto the fork pistons? I mean, there is a gap between the two clamp pieces and randomly tightening down one side before the other will simply leave a gap twice as large on the other side. I doubt it has to be even, but I don't know if there is a preferred side to tighten down first or if I should aim for keeping them even or what.

April 17th, 2012, 09:27 AM	#461
ator ninjette.org guru Name: Chris Location: Michigan Join Date: Jan 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250R Posts: 365	Actually, based on the style of the tripple clamp, just pull each side down (towards you, bar end side) as far as they will go. This way, they will both be the same. The tripple clamp will only let them go so far.

June 8th, 2012, 01:37 PM	#466
RedOctober ninjette.org member Name: Andrei Location: Austin, TX Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 2008 Daytona 675 Posts: 212	Do not be afraid to drill the bolt out

June 8th, 2012, 01:50 PM	#468
sharky nrk Fighting Texas Aggie '05 Name: Neil Location: Hutto, TX Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.	Cut the bar end weight in half leaving the stub of the bolt, then use a vice grip and she will turn right out.

June 9th, 2012, 11:35 AM	#473
sharky nrk Fighting Texas Aggie '05 Name: Neil Location: Hutto, TX Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.	I used a quality impact driver and broke the bit in two trying to get it loose, then it went in the bandsaw

June 15th, 2012, 02:55 PM	#475
OzzyDevil ninjette.org member Name: Paul Location: Melb Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): none yet Posts: 13	Hi i just read this thread and OMG i want clip-ons lol i live in Aust i'm 6"11 and i know i'm abit tall but who cares... My question is i have a 2012 Ninja 250 so am i still be able to use the woodcraft clip-ons ?? I hope so anyway i don't think i will get rearsets coz i don't do track but looking into that down the track...

October 10th, 2012, 05:39 PM	#477
James13 ninjette.org newbie Name: James Location: Thirlmere Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki ninja 250 Posts: 4	Looks Good mate, im thinking about buying some clip on's myself, just wondering how the staring was. Do the bars hit the fairing or anything? would you recommend getting them?

October 10th, 2012, 06:34 PM	#478
andylawcc ninjette.org guru Name: andy Location: san gabriel Join Date: Jan 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 faster red Posts: 397	on top of heating it, get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93481.html you will rarely use it, but it be a godsend.

February 5th, 2013, 09:37 AM	#480
lgk ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Jason Location: Norfolk, VA Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2012 EX250, 2014 EX300 Posts: A lot.	my bars are also faded, but it took months for it to happen. all the other parts are good though. __________________________________________________ Ethioknight Memorial Fund- Sticker sale http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111700

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