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#521 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Chris
Location: N. Central Ill.
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R (hers), '06 Buell XB12Ss (mine) Posts: 28
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I found some PERFECT shims in my old OLD stash of R/C car hardware. 3mm washers about .020" thick and the OD of the washers matched perfectly to the top of the needle.
So, if anyone has a hobby shop nearby that carries Tamiya R/C cars, you should be able to score some washers there, although my washers are "vintage", circa 1987. ![]() |
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#522 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Chris,
It was the other Keihin parts on that site that had me drooling. ![]() |
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#523 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Peter
Location: Toronto
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250r Blue Posts: 32
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Quote:
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#524 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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When you say 3mm washers, do you mean in total diameter or the inner opening?
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#525 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Chris
Location: N. Central Ill.
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R (hers), '06 Buell XB12Ss (mine) Posts: 28
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#526 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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Thanks euro, I picked up a few earlier, and didn't even think to ask. haha
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#527 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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#528 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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3mm OD is a very small washer, I guess I will have to pull the needle and take one down to the store with me. Might have to dig around for my old rc stuff.
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#529 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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these are the washers FP sends you w/ their jet kits...
3mm washers on the stock needles... stock needles next to FP needles... my source of washers used to shim the stock needles... |
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#530 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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Thanks kkim. Will be heading out soon to pick up the right ones.
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#531 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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You're welcome Josh. I wanted to make sure the correct sized washers are used as using too large a washer can cause problems.
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#532 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
Location: Northern Virginia
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.
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#533 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Chris
Location: N. Central Ill.
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R (hers), '06 Buell XB12Ss (mine) Posts: 28
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#534 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Chris,
Any pics of them on the needle? |
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#535 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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Well, I have some #6 washers (roughly 3mm ID) and some 3mm washers that I picked up today. They look to be about the same size, but will let you know if there are any issues with either of them when I get out to the garage.
Apparently they were packaged wrong, because the "3mm" washers are about the same size as the #6 washers and the OD is too big to fit inside the white plastic spring cup. Guess I need to find the closest Radio Shack |
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#536 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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I stand corrected. 3mm should refer to the size of the hole in the washer.
The washers Chris pictured are approximately the size that I used, too. My apologies for the confusion. ![]() some additional washer info... http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Washers_for_carb_needles |
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#537 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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I went and picked up the assorted washers from Radio Shack that noche_caliente recommended and they worked great. So the washers that are needed are either 3mm for metric, or #4 for SAE.
New issue though, I shimmed the carbs, pulled the snorkel and it sounds AMAZING! The revs are a lot more smooth as well. My issue is that before when the bike was warmed up, I would shut the choke and it would idle between 1k-1.5k. Now the bike was idling around 2.5k after everything was done. Do I need to adjust the idle, or did I screw something up? I used 2x#4 for each carb, and like I said it runs really well, but didn't see anything in either thread pointing out high idle speeds. |
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#538 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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I did nothing but shim and remove the snorkel, didn't see anywhere about adjusting the idle. It did idle at 1.5k-ish after I warmed it up, but after a rev to about 5k to make sure it revved smoothly it hung at 2.5k and stayed there.
Hopefully it will be a little cooler tomorrow, I think it might be a little lean still and will probably throw another shim on it (3 total) and see if that helps. |
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#539 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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Alright alright! So I am thinking that I may have let the bike idle for too long, and with how hot it was outside that may be what caused the high rpm readings. Started it up today after putting the tank back on with the intention of warming it up and adjusting the idle speed knob, but instead it warmed up and idled smoothly and without issue. A quick blip of the throttle and it hung at 2.5k for about 3secs and dropped back down to a nice 1.5k.
So total setup, pulled air restrictor and put 2x#4 washers on each carb. p.s. Damn is sounds good!! |
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#540 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Joe
Location: Buffalo NY
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 "Wasabi", 82 Yamaha xj650j Posts: A lot.
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So would it be fair to say: With a straight through exhaust everyone recommends starting with three x 3mm washies. and say start with 2 x 3mm for stock can?
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#541 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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#542 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Josh
Location: CT
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250R (Metallic Island Blue) Posts: 262
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Well, took if for a 2-3mile test run last night, after a complete warm up it was still idling a bit too high, readjusted the idle at a stop light and ran great.
I am still going nuts on how much easier it is to work on this thing than all the cars and trucks I have ever modded. If I had known it was this easy to play with I would have bought one a long time ago! |
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#543 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bob
Location: CA
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.
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Don't look back man, just be thankful you have discoverd the fun
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#544 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Buell XB12R (his), 2010 Ninja 250(hers) Posts: 18
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So I'm looking at doing this mod. I'll be removing the snorkle and it already has a very free flowing two brothers slip on. Do you think it would be safe to run 3 washers on it?
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#545 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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#546 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bob
Location: CA
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.
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I was running 3 washers with snorkle removed and stock pipe/filter, prior to a full jet kit. I was running a little rich, but for me it was a very linear power curve.
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#547 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but it'd be safer to run it with three washers than leave it alone. With the stock carb setup it's now way too lean and that's potentially a Bad Thing.
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#548 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Anderson
Location: The Great White North
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r (Red) Posts: 2
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If anyone has trouble finding 3mm washers, head down to your nearest neighbourhood aircraft hangar. That's the good thing about working as a pilot, tons of parts and thousands of tools - and a heated hangar to work in. XD
But in all seriousness, thanks to everyone posting tips and tutorials here. I'm going to try to shim and de-snorkel today, and it's going to be a lot easier with all your guidance ![]() |
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#549 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Anderson
Location: The Great White North
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r (Red) Posts: 2
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Holy hell, the results are awesome! Here's a few things to clarify the effects for noobs like me:
-the results are tangible. I no longer have to feather the clutch anywhere above 2 mph. That's right, 2 mph. It really doesn't want to stall. -the results are *really* tangible. It pulls like a bat out of hell now, and I don't have to downshift to accelerate above 60mph - just stay in 6th gear. -the noise at idle is very similar to stock, but where the difference is really noticeable is when you have 1/2 throttle to WOT below 10k rpm under a load. It makes a beautiful deep growl reminiscent of larger bikes as it breathes in the air. -if you like to save gas, don't do it. You burn through the juice a fair amount quicker, especially when you're a spirited rider like me. And a few things I found as I did the procedure: -set aside 3-4 hours to do it. It took me just under three. -when people say the carb screws are soft, they are not kidding. I don't know why they make those things out of clay. -you need really skinny needlenose pliers to get the needles out. They sit deep down in the well, and there's not too much room around them. Anyway, it was really worth it. What a performance boost - and for free! |
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#550 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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#551 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Buell XB12R (his), 2010 Ninja 250(hers) Posts: 18
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Can someone give me a quick run down on how to yank the carbs? I have a stripped screw and I really don't want to have to put the snorkle back in. I just want to finish the shim job lol
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#552 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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#553 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Buell XB12R (his), 2010 Ninja 250(hers) Posts: 18
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Thanks kKim I'm giving up though. Snorkle is back in. I don't have the time or tools necessary to deal with this. Maybe in a year when I have access to my craftsmen tools. Just wanted to make the bike a lol more user friendly for cindy.
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#554 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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understand... which is why it is stressed to NOT strip the screws. It makes this job a real PITA when you do.
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#555 |
Ramen Rider
Name: Gary
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.
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sharkie, do you have a dremel? if you put a notch in the screw you can use a flat screwdriver to get it out.
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#556 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13
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I took my carbs off the bike partly because I wanted to change the pilot jets and pull the mix plug caps more easily, but MOSTLY because I wanted to get better access to those notorious screws.
I bought a brand new, high quality #2 Philips, set the carb down, applied careful pressure and it was EASY. A very small pop and all 16 of 'em (8 on the caps, 8 on the bowls) came right out. Seriously, it's worth it to yank the carbs just to eliminate the possibility of messing up the screws. It also makes it very easy to get the needles out. Just turn the carb over, shake gently, and the diaphragm plus needle just falls out in your hand. |
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#557 | |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
Location: A secret lair which, being secret, has an undisclosed location
Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): Aprilia RS660 Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 6
MOTM - Jul '18, Nov '16, Aug '14, May '13
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Quote:
There are four big rubber tubes that hold the carb in place. One pair joins the airbox to the carbs, and the other joins the carbs to the engine. If you take the left-side one that's between the carb and the engine completely out (i.e. remove it entirely from the bike), it's much easier to get the carbs out of the frame. First you pull the airbox to the rear, to give the carbs some place to go when you pull them back away from the engine. Once they're clear of those forward tubes, you remove the left tube, then rotate the carbs into the space that's now opened up and pull them out through the left side of the frame. Removing the carbs is much easier than I thought it would be. One of the main reasons for this is that you don't need to disconnect most of the vacuum lines. That'd be a nightmare. |
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#558 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ryan
Location: Riverside
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Buell XB12R (his), 2010 Ninja 250(hers) Posts: 18
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Aye. But as someone said up further it really doesn't take much. I barely put any pressure and it sheared right off. On the 2010 it seems the right carb is the harder of the two to get to. The forward right screw is the one that got me. When I get another 6 hrs free I might pull the whole carb and use a good set of pliers to back the screw out.
Posted via Mobile Device oh and sound wave one of the most frustrating parts is that all my craftsman tools and dremels pretty much anything handy to have are in my storage unit back in fl. Lol |
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#559 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Jason
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Join Date: May 2010 Motorcycle(s): 09 Ninja 250R SE, 07 Honda CRF230F, 06 Honda CRF150F Posts: A lot.
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Lowe's does carry these for those of you who may be interested. I found them in the Stainless Steel specialty drawers.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_136250-37672...steel%20washer |
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#560 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Joe
Location: Buffalo NY
Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 Ninja 250 "Wasabi", 82 Yamaha xj650j Posts: A lot.
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Some tidying up needed here
To everyone havin problems with shearing and anyone reading this thread getting ready to do some shimming....Its not a soft head, its the wrong tool. "You need a JIS phillips bit". JIS Commonly found in Japanese equipment. Looks like a Phillips screw, but is designed not to cam out and will, therefore, be damaged by a Phillips screwdriver if it is too tight. Tip: Use a drywall bit as theyre the perfect JIS substitute and are available at lowes and home depot etc. JIS is not the same as a standard phillips bit. The angles are slightly different to phillips. JIS tools can also be purchased around the net. Also. Before you attempt this procedure, buy allen-headed machine bolts for replacements. This way you can simply use an allen wrench to access them again in the future. I bought some from this guy along with everything else I wanted to replace with stainless. http://www.desmoparts.com/products/p...tm/m5-wellnuts While your there, purchase anything else you can replace with stainless on your ninjette. Handle bar bolts, muffler end cap, gas cap, etc and never worry about them rusting again! BTW..He also sell the nylon fairing washers and the actual 3mm washers needed for this mod...in stainless. ![]() His service was awesome and the products were top notch. Ohh...grab a bunch of well nuts from him while your there too. enjoy
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Shimming the Carb Needles... Is it for You? | kkim | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 93 | June 10th, 2018 05:25 PM |
Shimming the carb needles | kfilla | General Motorcycling Discussion | 2 | July 2nd, 2014 06:14 PM |
DJ Needles instead of shimming | mxman38 | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 7 | May 30th, 2012 07:09 PM |
Need help on shimming carb needles | RedNinja21 | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 6 | October 27th, 2011 10:16 AM |
FREE!!! 3MM Washers for Shimming Your Carb Needles | kkim | 2008 - 2012 Ninja 250R Tech Talk | 1 | September 10th, 2010 02:26 AM |
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