SOS ('03 ninja 250)

[flitecontrol]

Good suggestion!

[Caliboy2010]

Update* replaced the gasket on the drain plug with a rubber one and there is no no more leaking. Now to just get my radiator to work....

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

Update* replaced the gasket on the drain plug with a rubber one and there is no no more leaking. Now to just get my radiator to work....

If you are talking about the aluminum crush washer, it is supposed to be replaced every time anyway, though you can get away with reusing it every now and then.

[Caliboy2010]

So update. I replaced the chain, did the friction and steel plates of the clutch and the clutch springs just now. Although I think it may be sticky and when I change into first gear it isn't doing anything when I release the clutch lever and apply any throttle. HELP!!! also still leaking oil.... -.-

Also when tightening down the bolts holding the clutch springs I did not have a torque wrench and simply tightened it down. is it possible that tightening it down too much is causing the problem with it not going into gear?

[amad1972]

If it was working before replacing the plates and springs, and now it is not, I would definitely go back in and use a torque wrench. I always use a torque wrench on important parts on the bike. It is very difficult to "judge" the correct torque. If you have a Harbor Freight Tools store close by, they have decent torque wrenches for about $10.

As for the oil leak, the drain plug is not supposed to have a rubber o-ring. It is supposed to have an aluminum crush washer.

[fast1075]

The clutch pressure plate is installed incorrectly. There is a "dot" on the pressure plate, and a "Dot" on the clutch basket that have to align, or the pressure plate will not grip the plates. VERY common reassembly error on a Pre Gen.

Take the pressure plate off and look at the back side, it is pretty easy to figure out.

[Caliboy2010]

You were right, I got it all sorted out, thanks for the tip! Also took the time to rebuild the carbs and clean then out and holy hell you wouldn't imagine the gunk and rust residue in the sink and we'll everywhere... cleaned it out and it runs like new!

[amad1972]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

You were right, I got it all sorted out, thanks for the tip! Also took the time to rebuild the carbs and clean then out and holy hell you wouldn't imagine the gunk and rust residue in the sink and we'll everywhere... cleaned it out and it runs like new!

[Caliboy2010]

Alright so I have replaced everything to no avail to get the fan to work. Replaced the fan, water sensor, thermostat, thermostat switch, the fuse is good and I can only think wiring must be the cause. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram or can you post a pic so I can take a look and try to figure this out, its too warm this summer to ride without a fan... my coolant has been reaching 220 in stopped traffic which is not okay...

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

Alright so I have replaced everything to no avail to get the fan to work. Replaced the fan, water sensor, thermostat, thermostat switch, the fuse is good and I can only think wiring must be the cause. Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram or can you post a pic so I can take a look and try to figure this out, its too warm this summer to ride without a fan... my coolant has been reaching 220 in stopped traffic which is not okay...

Wiring schematic - http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_...s_%26_diagrams

Have you applied power directly to the fan to make it spin? That would confirm the fan is working. Temporarily, you could wire a switch in to manually turn it on until you have isolated the problem.

Use an Ohm meter to check wires between connectors.

You have confirmed the level of the coolant (when cold) in the radiator is correct - right? If you've emptied the cooling system you can easily get air pockets that will disrupt cooling and possibly the temp sensor.

[Caliboy2010]

Coolant levels are fine, I will get back to you about fan operations after further testing, thanks for the information!

[Caliboy2010]

So after testing everything i learned the problem was not related to any of the parts. I am using a trail tech vapor and the temp sensor for the coolant fluid is located in the hose between the thermostat (above the engine) and the radiator, where you insert radiator fluid. The reading on my trail tech reaches 215 *F before the fan turns on. That is why i thought it was not working.. i had checked the fan everytime when it read below 200... Is 215 really hot for that area of the hose?

Also after cleaning out my carb i had to readjust the air mixture screw (the one located underneath each carb. I currently have them set out 3 full turns, is going out further leaning or richening it out? i don't want to run it too lean and fry a piston or my engine. Also in order to start my bike cold i have to not only pull the choke all the way out but also give it some gas in order for it to start... Current carb settings are Stock pilot, and main jets, needles are raised with a few very thin washers, and 3 turns out on the screws for each.

I only ask about carb tuning because at idle my bike reached 215 (coolant fluid) and the fan kicked in. it's about 80 degrees here and i feel that it shouldn't get that hot idling

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

So after testing everything i learned the problem was not related to any of the parts. I am using a trail tech vapor and the temp sensor for the coolant fluid is located in the hose between the thermostat (above the engine) and the radiator, where you insert radiator fluid. The reading on my trail tech reaches 215 *F before the fan turns on. That is why i thought it was not working.. i had checked the fan everytime when it read below 200... Is 215 really hot for that area of the hose?

Also after cleaning out my carb i had to readjust the air mixture screw (the one located underneath each carb. I currently have them set out 3 full turns, is going out further leaning or richening it out? i don't want to run it too lean and fry a piston or my engine. Also in order to start my bike cold i have to not only pull the choke all the way out but also give it some gas in order for it to start... Current carb settings are Stock pilot, and main jets, needles are raised with a few very thin washers, and 3 turns out on the screws for each.

I only ask about carb tuning because at idle my bike reached 215 (coolant fluid) and the fan kicked in. it's about 80 degrees here and i feel that it shouldn't get that hot idling

Turning the idle mixture screws out = richer. Even if they were all the way in you wouldn't risk hurting your engine - it just wouldn't idle. Once you have the slide lifted slightly (RPMs are increasing) the mixture control starts to transition from the pilot jet/idle mixture screws onto the needle and eventually all the way on the main jet when the slide is completely lifted. As it makes the transition the idle mixture setting have less and less effect.

Because you need to open the throttle to get it started, it may be too rich. Turn the screws in 1/2 turn and see if it's better, if so, go anther 1/2 in and see if that made it even better. Carb tuning is a lot of trial-and-error. Make an adjustment, then determine if you made an improvement or not - if not go back the other way.

You may also not need full choke when starting in that temp range.

As far as reaching 215 when idling - is that after running a while? When you are moving you are getting cooling. When you are stopped you are not. That's why the fan kicks on - to move air through the radiator when you are not moving. I would check a few things. Is the coolant mixed 50/50? Is the thermostat correct?

[Caliboy2010]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Turning the idle mixture screws out = richer. Even if they were all the way in you wouldn't risk hurting your engine - it just wouldn't idle. Once you have the slide lifted slightly (RPMs are increasing) the mixture control starts to transition from the pilot jet/idle mixture screws onto the needle and eventually all the way on the main jet when the slide is completely lifted. As it makes the transition the idle mixture setting have less and less effect.

Because you need to open the throttle to get it started, it may be too rich. Turn the screws in 1/2 turn and see if it's better, if so, go anther 1/2 in and see if that made it even better. Carb tuning is a lot of trial-and-error. Make an adjustment, then determine if you made an improvement or not - if not go back the other way.

You may also not need full choke when starting in that temp range.

As far as reaching 215 when idling - is that after running a while? When you are moving you are getting cooling. When you are stopped you are not. That's why the fan kicks on - to move air through the radiator when you are not moving. I would check a few things. Is the coolant mixed 50/50? Is the thermostat correct?

I'll try turning the screws in 1/2 turn at a time and then to 1/8th when I get closer to perfect. the 215 was after about 10 minutes of idling in the sun but the fan kicked back on it the fluid went back down to 205 for a bit before going back up to 215 and so on... I'm currently cleaning my exhaust so it's off and i'll put them back on and then try to continue tuning.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Caliboy2010

I'll try turning the screws in 1/2 turn at a time and then to 1/8th when I get closer to perfect. the 215 was after about 10 minutes of idling in the sun but the fan kicked back on it the fluid went back down to 205 for a bit before going back up to 215 and so on... I'm currently cleaning my exhaust so it's off and i'll put them back on and then try to continue tuning.

That tells you the fan and radiator are working properly.

Maybe someone here can tell us if that temp range (205-215) is the normal operating temp. I'm thinking it probably is.

I regularly see 210 or so on my SV650. Fan doesn't turn on until over 220 (so I'm told, never had it run that I know of).