I want to paint my bike - how much paint would I need? - Page 2

FrugalNinja250 · October 15th, 2012, 03:29 PM

Pull the fuel line off the petcock, connect a length of fuel line from the petcock to a gas can, then apply vacuum to the smaller vacuum nipple on the petcock to open it. You can use mouth suction, and clamp the vacuum line with something to hold it open while the tank drains. Once it's drained, you can use whatever means you want to get the last bit of fuel out of it. Try tilting the tank to the left to get the right side fuel over to the left.

Carbs are sealed to the air box. Stick a bolt or golf-tee in the fuel line going to the carbs, you'll be fine in that respect.

Note: the decals everywhere on the bike except the tank are adhesive vinyl, you can use heat carefully to remove those. The decals on the tank are actually wet-slide decals under the clear-coat, and will require sanding to get them off. Chances are really good that you'll go through to the metal when sanding those off, be sure to let the shop know that it'll need priming. If you want to same some labor and cost (assuming they'll discount it a little) you can use a grey Scotchbrite pad to thoroughly scuff all painted surfaces, including edges and corners. Any shiny spot, even down in a crevice, will eventually lead to a lift in the paint. Before scuffing, be sure to clean everything with wax and grease remover, like PrepSol by 3M.

I assume you're pulling the filler cap assembly for this. Look at where the existing paint is masked around the filler neck, and mask to that point. The gasket that the filler cap has needs to seat on metal, if it seats on paint you'll get a leak as the gasoline eats the paint, and it may even melt it to the gasket and ruin both.

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October 15th, 2012, 03:29 PM	#41
FrugalNinja250 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Frugal Location: Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW) Join Date: Mar 2010 Motorcycle(s): Several Posts: A lot.	Pull the fuel line off the petcock, connect a length of fuel line from the petcock to a gas can, then apply vacuum to the smaller vacuum nipple on the petcock to open it. You can use mouth suction, and clamp the vacuum line with something to hold it open while the tank drains. Once it's drained, you can use whatever means you want to get the last bit of fuel out of it. Try tilting the tank to the left to get the right side fuel over to the left. Carbs are sealed to the air box. Stick a bolt or golf-tee in the fuel line going to the carbs, you'll be fine in that respect. Note: the decals everywhere on the bike except the tank are adhesive vinyl, you can use heat carefully to remove those. The decals on the tank are actually wet-slide decals under the clear-coat, and will require sanding to get them off. Chances are really good that you'll go through to the metal when sanding those off, be sure to let the shop know that it'll need priming. If you want to same some labor and cost (assuming they'll discount it a little) you can use a grey Scotchbrite pad to thoroughly scuff all painted surfaces, including edges and corners. Any shiny spot, even down in a crevice, will eventually lead to a lift in the paint. Before scuffing, be sure to clean everything with wax and grease remover, like PrepSol by 3M. I assume you're pulling the filler cap assembly for this. Look at where the existing paint is masked around the filler neck, and mask to that point. The gasket that the filler cap has needs to seat on metal, if it seats on paint you'll get a leak as the gasoline eats the paint, and it may even melt it to the gasket and ruin both.