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Old October 24th, 2013, 05:03 PM   #41
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[IMG].........jpg[/IMG]
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Old October 25th, 2013, 04:56 PM   #42
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Old October 25th, 2013, 05:00 PM   #43
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Old October 25th, 2013, 05:02 PM   #44
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draw?
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Old October 28th, 2013, 10:52 AM   #45
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rear suspension thanks to @cuong-nutz, stock dogbone lengths but i had to make one curve around the shock. i will be making shorter bones in a little while so these are just temporary
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Old October 28th, 2013, 11:03 AM   #46
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............i will be making shorter bones in a little while............
Why?

Looking good !!!
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Old October 28th, 2013, 11:12 AM   #47
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the gsxr shock is about an inch shorter than the 250 shock, so the rear is sitting about an inch and a half lower than it should be stock. but i'll be moving it to about +.5" in the rear, so the dog bones will be a total of about 1.0" shorter in the end. with the change to the frame/neck, and with the forks moved up 0.5" in the triples, it should run about 23.5d rake with a slightly shorter than stock trail, and a slightly decreased wheelbase compared to stock. i will probably also run with the swingarm axle adjusters maxed to the back to try to get back to stock wheelbase. it doesn't need any shorter wheelbase than stock. but the front definitely feels better past 24d.
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Old November 2nd, 2013, 12:24 AM   #48
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Old November 2nd, 2013, 12:26 PM   #49
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draw?
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Old November 4th, 2013, 02:42 PM   #50
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Old November 4th, 2013, 02:51 PM   #51
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the water system is all connected, the electrical is all in place, and mostly connected minus the battery and lights and controls and the connection between the stator and the harness (different connector type), the carbs and throttle cables are on, along with the airbox (after some slight modification to make taking it out and putting it back in easier). i'm missing one of the rear wheel spacers (right) so i can't put the rear wheel on yet. still working on straightening the front wheel but i'm thinking i might just take it to someone. i also put back on some of the rubber like the gas tank mounts, the rear chain guide. the new tapered stem bearings are supposed to show up today so i can actually mount up the front end for real tonight. the clutch cover (maybe the clutch plates too) will also get swapped over from the parts motor tonight. fluids and all will go in as well. maybe we'll get her started today. i have a yoshi s/s exhaust that goes with the carbs i put on her. but i need to weld a crack on it.
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Old November 4th, 2013, 03:04 PM   #52
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the water system is all connected,............but i need to weld a crack on it.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:31 PM   #53
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so i put in the tapered bearings from all-balls. surprised by the quality. the front end is very stable now. i have to concede, the tapered bearings are a bit tighter than oem. much better than the dented ball bearings that was in it before. i swapped over the clutch cover and did some more electrical routing/setup.

i tried straightening the wheel with a car jack and the mapp gas. with the way this wheel is, its hard to fit the jack in like a normal car wheel. managed to move it about half the distance it needs to go but the jack wont be able to get in the right position from inside the wheel to finish the bend. so i've found out about this kind of fork-wrench thing that grabs onto the lip and has a big pry bar on it, so you lock the wheel down and then just pry the bend back. we'll see if i can rig something like this up. the other direction i'm thinking is to measure the ID of the lip on the wheel and cut out a half-moon from a block of wood in that shape, then lock the wheel down and use a locked down press on the half-moon to push on the inside of the lip, then hit it with the torch while pushing it out.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:32 PM   #54
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:44 PM   #55
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Did alex shank just admit that someone else was right?? I was impressed with those bearings' quality as well.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:49 PM   #56
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not that someone else was right. that i was wrong.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:49 PM   #57
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i will say the bottom race on the bottom of the triple stem is a bitch and a half to get off even with the mapp gas. i wound up cutting that one off with the 3 inch grinder.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 12:52 PM   #58
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I used a dremel with a grind wheel, slotted it as deep as I could without grinding the triple or stem, then cracked the remaining little bit of metal by driving a screwdriver in and forcing it open. Then I flipped the triple over and the whole race just fell off without any effort.

Took 5 minutes. I didn't even attempt to tap it off; that looked too hard.
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Old November 5th, 2013, 01:00 PM   #59
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i stuck it in the vice locked onto the race then hammered on the top of the stem but it wouldn't take it all the way off before i ripped my vice off the table. now i need to remound the vice. anyway after that i just cut it the rest of the way off
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Old November 6th, 2013, 01:13 PM   #60
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looking good alex.
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Old November 18th, 2013, 10:51 AM   #61
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i finished all the wiring. jesus what a pain in the ass.

put a small battery on (it's so cute!)


it has powerrrrr!


i put fluids in and then i tried turning it over and forgot to take a video... it lives!

waiting on a new wheel, a wheel spacer, air filter, registration, i need to paint the body work... oh yeah i need to make a new peg and linkage for the shifter... i think that's about all before she's sea-worthy
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Old November 18th, 2013, 11:44 AM   #62
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i finished all the wiring.........i put fluids in and then i tried turning it over and forgot to take a video... it lives!
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Old November 21st, 2013, 11:52 AM   #63
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got some parts in. thanks to dan the parts ninja. wheels on with a newish pair of rosso 2s

still need to put the chain on, do an oil change, new air filter, redo the rear brake (fluid, put pads back on), it needs blinkers, i need to paint the bodywork all white and red like i planned and cut a hole in the front for the headlight (which is 3 cree leds in an enclosure). it needs some mirrors too... i also need to make a new foot peg on one side, and i need to make a rod to go between the two heim joints (as my brothers mech teacher says 'himen joints') in the shift linkage. i need to put the lock back on the rear seat to keep it held down... right now it's just sitting on top

here she is.


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Old November 21st, 2013, 01:48 PM   #64
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got some parts in. thanks to dan the parts ninja..................


Those two big hammers laying around worry me.

.......well, at least the plunger is gone now.
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Old November 21st, 2013, 03:04 PM   #65
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the rubber mallet is useful for everything from putting axles in and tapping down triples to silencing doubters.

the big hammer is for making new things. i actually had to make lots of little parts for the bike. grinder, hammer and vice are good for making metal parts
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 04:58 AM   #66
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 11:46 AM   #67
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the drinking is for after the tools are put down.


otherwise you wind up dropping things in the engine. and then rebuilding an entire engine. only to slip and screw up a bolt in the engine that takes you 3 weeks to replace. been there. i need as much mind power as i can to not screw things up.
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Old November 22nd, 2013, 02:43 PM   #68
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Old November 30th, 2013, 12:17 AM   #69
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Put reg on it but it needs to pass inspection.
It has a rear seat lock, brake light, horn, front accessories controls, front light mounted in body work, did the rear brake, painted the main fairing red, same as the frame. Ran all the vacuum tubes and gas lines and started it with new 91 with injector cleaner in it. It's got rear pegs now. I put a new chain on and the wheel turned for the first time under the bikes power. I broke the old bent aluminum shift linkage trying to straighten it so I made a new one by welding the two nuts from the old rod onto the ends of a half inch steel tube I cut to the same size. The exhaust has a crack in it. I started the weld but it's not done yet. I'm trying my best to be pretty with it. But I'm not very good. Once I finish the exhaust and paint the underbelly and put the bodywork on, oh and blinkers, it will be "done" and I'll take it for inspection. Then I can get a license plate for it
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Old November 30th, 2013, 07:22 AM   #70
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............Once I finish the exhaust and paint the underbelly and put the bodywork on, oh and blinkers, it will be "done" and I'll take it for inspection. Then I can get a license plate for it


Amazing progress !!!
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Old November 30th, 2013, 05:24 PM   #71
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Old November 30th, 2013, 05:54 PM   #72
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Old November 30th, 2013, 06:01 PM   #73
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It rides pretty well
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Old December 1st, 2013, 04:21 PM   #74
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what happened to the green ? :/
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 12:06 AM   #75
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dysentary.
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 06:32 AM   #76
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There still isn't any duct tape in evidence.

I call fail.

(Tip: ALWAYS safety wire your duct tape so you'll pass tech.)
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 01:00 PM   #77
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Single LED for headlight?
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Old December 2nd, 2013, 01:01 PM   #78
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3 cree led's in a heat sync mount with a wide angle lens. kevin made it.
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Old December 5th, 2013, 10:59 AM   #79
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i thought they looked adorable together.

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Old December 5th, 2013, 05:58 PM   #80
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Quote:
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the drinking is for after the tools are put down.


otherwise you wind up dropping things in the engine. and then rebuilding an entire engine. only to slip and screw up a bolt in the engine that takes you 3 weeks to replace. been there. i need as much mind power as i can to not screw things up.
All from 2,400 miles away from home! Yeah, adventures sometimes stem from mistakes. Like trying to change the oil and ending up with a bolt in an engine and a hole burned into a pair of motorcycle pants.
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