February 10th, 2011, 05:53 PM | #41 |
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That looks freakin' sweet Tri! Been wanting to do this for a while but haven't had the cojones to start hackin at my headlights. Thanks a million for doing a DIY with this.
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February 10th, 2011, 05:59 PM | #42 |
self wrencher
Name: john
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What's Tri?
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February 10th, 2011, 09:22 PM | #43 |
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That looks great! kinda looks like a pissed off blue bumble bee, I like it!
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February 10th, 2011, 09:30 PM | #44 |
ninjette.org member
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CThunder-blue's name
I think it looks great! A DIY would be a awesome! I'm sure many people would appreciate it! My girlfriend is actually interested in doing this very mod, and I'm sure a DIY would really help her out. I'm sure she'll be on this forum soon enough! |
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February 11th, 2011, 09:34 AM | #45 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Thanks guys. I got the bike all put back together! I was able to adjust the low beams and everything's done. I just need to upload the pics and finish the DIY. I'm hoping to find time to do that tomorrow night or Sunday night. Tonight is date night with the wife .
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February 11th, 2011, 05:31 PM | #46 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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I got the final pix downloaded to computer. Here's another pic with all the fairings back on. Going to work on finishing the DIY.
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February 11th, 2011, 06:17 PM | #47 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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Looks like one pissed off 250. Love it!!
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February 12th, 2011, 12:29 AM | #48 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Ok guys. I'm done with the DIY! Full write up can be found on my web page: http://www.audiotether.com/250RHID/250RHIDretrofit.htm
It's a long read, but I wanted to put as much detail in there as I could to help you guys. |
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February 12th, 2011, 01:00 AM | #49 |
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February 12th, 2011, 06:08 PM | #50 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Ultra!
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Quote:
Great job btw! |
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February 13th, 2011, 08:01 AM | #51 |
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Name: war
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Looks very good! For sure the hardest part of a projector retrofit is just opening up the housing.
I'm looking into this for when I pick up my ninjette. I also noticed that the people on the ninja 650r's have been using the G3 retrofits kits for projectors, which is probably the route I'll be going, just because it's cheaper overall. Although I've only heard good things about the Morimoto kits from theretrofitsource.com. Also, thanks for the writeup. It's very helpful. |
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February 18th, 2011, 10:38 AM | #52 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
Name: Trevor
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nice writeup
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February 18th, 2011, 11:29 AM | #53 |
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Name: Xtian
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Looks very nice.
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February 22nd, 2011, 10:02 AM | #54 |
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Ok, I gotta know... Where did you source a big enough sheet of 3/8" ABS and 1/8" PVC for the mounting and shroud boards for under $15? I can't find a sheet of ABS that thick for under $40. That said, I'm trying for a 12x24" so I have some 'oops' room (or material to make a second one for to a forum member).
Already tried my local hardware stores; they don't carry any ABS and the PVC sheets were seriously overpriced.
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February 22nd, 2011, 10:12 AM | #55 |
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Name: Eddie
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Sweet doode!! And, thx for the write up. I recently picked up an extra set of headlights to do this... now, I just need to order the other stuff find some time.
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February 22nd, 2011, 02:31 PM | #56 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
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Quote:
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February 25th, 2011, 08:12 AM | #57 |
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Tri, thanks for the help with the mounting sheets man, I would've been stuck without ya (or at least stuck paying WAY too much for a couple sheets of plastic)
Just discovered why you built your own harness... all of the ones (that I could find anyway) on the market are designed for cars, so the ballast power supply cables are very asymmetrical. You'd have to splice into several cables to lengthen them to even get the harness on the bike, which isn't all that worth it when you can build your own for about the same price and have fewer possible points of failure. FWIW, the harness from TheRetrofitSource falls into this asymmetrical category, as well as the fuse holder was pretty much exposed and crimps are crap. Two of them came loose just shaking it out of the packaging bag. It's going back.
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February 25th, 2011, 08:43 AM | #58 |
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Name: Tri
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Paul, can you post a pic of the harness you're having problems with? I really only made my relay harness because I had all the parts on hand. Even a harness with 3 feet leads would be sufficient.
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February 26th, 2011, 05:44 PM | #59 |
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I literally just shipped it back to them this afternoon and neglected to take pictures when I was working on it. However, I'll summarize to the best of my recollection and link the only provided pic from their website:
(For an idea of scale, each half of a coil loop (the distance between the curves) is about 7") There are two 9006-type connectors to power the ballasts. One of them is in black wire loom and is about 40" long. The other one is just in sheathing and extends *maybe* 12" from the relay. The weatherproofing seals around one of the wires into the shorter-wired 9006 was severely compromised; fixable, but would not hold up to weather. The H7 plug to attach into the headlight socket has about 10" of wire coming from the relay. The battery cables (with ring terminals) are about 14" for the positive (red sheath with effectively exposed fuse holder included) and about 8" for the negative. Even stretching the wiring out perfectly straight, I fell over 18" short from the headlight sockets, and could only reach the area behind the instrument panel with one of the ballast power sockets. The company suggested I just splice into the battery cables and lengthen them. That's well and good I can do it easily, but the whole point of me buying a harness was NOT to need to do that. Ah well, I should've asked them before buying. What amused me in this is this quote from their website: "For protection, the wiring is covered in black "high heat" convoluted tubing, all of which is guaranteed to be long enough to fit all applications." TRS' policy to not accept returns for refunds (without getting that approved before the original purchase), has led to some frustration. To their credit though, the Morimoto D2S projectors are in good shape and they included the connectors for the hi-beam solenoids. I did get what I ordered from them within 48 hours though, which was awesome given I paid for the cheapest possible shipping. Also, they cut me a little price break since I called in and asked nicely. That said, I'm kinda glad I went with a DIY harness. Spent a couple hours sourcing out high-quality components parts as well as some waterproofing shrink-wrap, and didn't spend much more than the harness from TRS cost me. If anything goes wrong with it, I've only got myself to blame.
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February 27th, 2011, 10:08 AM | #60 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Sounds like you did the right thing. Extending the battery wires would have been fine as well, but if there was prior damage to the cable, you're better off doing what u did.
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February 27th, 2011, 03:15 PM | #61 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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After getting the mounting board made for Paul, I realized I made an error on the DIY. It should be 1/4" ABS not 3/8". I've already made the correction on the website. Sorry
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February 27th, 2011, 05:40 PM | #62 |
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Hehe, I was wondering about that. I kept thinking "wow, that's some serious mounting board." Thanks again for grabbing me some paneling man. If I know this forum, you'll wind up making that trip a couple more times this summer.
Also realized that an H7 male won't plug directly into the stock wiring; you have to use that silly black adapter that fits on the back of the stock bulb before you put it into the headlight (first pic on page 7 of your DIY). Being my usual retentive self, I've ordered an H4 male plug as it looks about right for our stock socket. One less piece to fall out/corrode/fail, assuming it fits.
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February 27th, 2011, 06:14 PM | #63 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Paul, yeah, the adapter has to be used. I just wrapped it liberally with some 3M electrical tape. I knew that going into the project and didn't really want to spend extra money in case the H4 harness didn't work. Let me know if it works out and I'll update the DIY.
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March 2nd, 2011, 06:54 PM | #64 |
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I got my H4 sockets in the mail today. They mate perfectly with the stock wiring, bypassing the bulb adapter. The difference between the H7 and H4 sockets are that the pins are a little further apart (13mm vs 16mm, respectively) and the pins are individually a little wider (6mm vs ~7.5mm). Also the H4 plug has a slot for a third pin, but that one's not used on our bikes (typically H4 bulbs are both hi-lo and that third pin provides power for that function).
DSC06061.JPG Edit: (H4 is on the left, H7 on the right) Other than sheer laziness, I do not know why Kawasaki chose to use an H4 wiring socket, then go through an adapter to use an H7 bulb. Pure silliness
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March 2nd, 2011, 08:25 PM | #65 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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Thanks Paul. I'll update my diy.
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April 3rd, 2011, 10:25 PM | #66 |
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Finished my edition of this mod about two weeks ago, finally getting some pics up. Since Tri did such a great write-up, I'll just toss up some summary photos from my build, highlighting some differences between the OP and I.
This is what I sat down with to make the wiring harness. I wound up buying (almost) all of my connectors as kits and doing the crimps, etc for all of them, to ensure they strong, tight and waterproof as reasonably possible. As I mentioned above, I found out during the process that Kawasaki used an H4 female connector on the stock harness (and an adapter to interface w/ the H7 bulbs), so I subbed that in for the H7. DSC06069.jpg My mounted projectors. I think I must've spent 2 hours just measuring to cut the holes for the projectors; time well spent though. For the record a 3" hole saw will work, but like Tri mentions in his DIY, there's very little room for error. I wound up using M4x30mm (0.7 thread pitch) for the bolts that go through the lowest black plastic points of the lens support (as well as the mounting board) as this is what it came with and was threaded to use M4, I just went a lot longer. Used 20mm long M5x25mm (0.8 thread pitch) for the upper bolts that just go through the metal part of the projector housing (and again, the mounting board) instead of M8 bolts like Tri since the housing had been drilled crooked on one of the holes and I didn't want to risk making it too thin. I used really long bolts in all of these slots because I wanted room to attach standoffs for the faceplate (the 6 white things) Nylock nuts and blue loctite were both employed after aligning everything to make sure nothing vibrates loose. DSC06093.jpg DSC06096.jpg I used spacers behind the faceplate because I wanted the shrouds up front on the housings and because I didn't want to waste the mounting rings (for the shrouds) I'd purchased. Wound up threading the spaces onto various mounting bolts and epoxying the spacers to the back of the faceplate. DSC06100.jpg After feeling how much heat these bulbs put out, I decided to add a third heat/air equalizing vent by cutting off the tip of the plastic rod-thing that's in the center-back of the headlight housing. I attached a spare vent tube from another headlight I had hanging around. Shown here with the end of the tube coming out from behind the housing. Didn't take any specific pics of this, unfortunately. DSC06102.jpg Skipped the carbon fiber vinyl since I kinda like the semi-gloss black finish the PVC had on it to begin with; almost perfectly matches the stock plastic in the corners. Spent a LONG time prototyping and test-fitting the faceplate though, as I wanted a much tighter fit to hide pretty much all of the air gaps and hardware. DSC06099.jpg DSC06116.jpg More-or-less final alignment of the projectors. I wound up spending an hour or so tweaking the pitch and yaw of the two housings to get them to synch up the light beam. DSC06078.jpg Finished product DSC06112.jpg DSC06121.jpg. Don't have pics, but I wound up going with the Morimoto 3Five ballasts & 5000k Morimoto bulbs, both from TheRetrofitSource. A bit pricey but quality hardware. The only catch is that the Morimoto system uses true D2S bulbs, not the re-based ones that have wired connectors coming out of the back like many HID retrofit kits. As such, I had to trim the rubber dust boot on the back of the headlights to get the connectors to fit properly, but there's no extra wiring cluttering up the area behind my dash and in the event of a flood, my ballasts are waterproof. All in all, I spent WAY longer on this than I thought I would, especially with the faceplate. But it was a mountain of fun and I'm extremely pleased with the end result. I'd be more than happy to help any east-coasters out with this (or anyone really) should they decide to undertake the task. Also, I have a spare sheet each of the mounting and faceplate material, courtesy of Tri/CThunder-blue. Tri, thanks again for an excellent DIY and (at least for this group) pioneering this task for we the less-brave.
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April 4th, 2011, 08:37 AM | #67 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
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That looks awesome Paul! Nicely done . The time you spent on aligning the beam paid off. If I wasn't such a dufus and sealed my headlights up before alignment, I would have done that as well.
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October 5th, 2011, 10:38 AM | #68 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mahesh
Location: Silver spring,md
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Hey tri would you be willing to do this if i paid you?
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October 5th, 2011, 11:01 AM | #69 |
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Both Tri and I have been asked to build these for sale. Last time I checked with him, Tri wasn't willing.
I quoted the person $700-1000, depending on the the cost of materials (~$450-750) and a LOT of my time invested when I'm not at my full-time job. There are shops that do this retrofit, I'm not sure what they would charge. Here's a link to one: http://www.sickhids.com/
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October 5th, 2011, 11:33 AM | #70 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mahesh
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Damn. Ok know any shops over on the east coast. I really want this done. But im scared im gonna mess things up.
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October 5th, 2011, 11:37 AM | #71 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mahesh
Location: Silver spring,md
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O man i didnt kno you were in va! Im in md! Would you be willing to help me if i paid you for your time? I used to be an installer for best buy so im not a noob with tools. Just havnt done any of this. I also want to make it so that both lights (hid or course) come on as low beams. And when i press the switch on the handle bar both lights go to high beam. Im guessing i would have to change the bulb type and Plug? And i also want it to be halo projectors.
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October 5th, 2011, 07:15 PM | #72 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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I'm about as far as I can be from MD and still be in VA. That said, I do have some friends not too far from Silver Springs and my girlfriend's parents are in Fairfax, VA ~40min away.
Very happy to help you out man, esp if you're willing to pay a little. I'm semi-pro with soldering, I'm employed as a lab technician (which includes fixing/build experimental apparatuses) and have (obviously) done this before. Think it took me ~20 hours of work to get it all together. Can definitely do it in less a second time, but it'll still be significant time. The build that Tri (and I) did results in both bulbs on upon start-up, with both of them switchable to 'high' beam with the stock switch flipped. If you've taken a look at his DIY (linked above, post #27) you'll see that's pretty much how the relay works. The retrofit necessarily changes bulb type and the plug, since you can't power HIDs without a ballast to provide the initial 'spike' of voltage to get the bulb lit. The only part I'd have to figure out is the halos and how to wire them in, but that's easy stuff. If you're quite serious on this, I can dig up/get together my complete parts list. I wound up building the wiring harness pretty much from scratch b/c the one I bought was terrible quality & the cable lengths were all wrong. I also went with fairly top-end parts for the bulb/ballast, which I've never had cause to regret.
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October 5th, 2011, 07:33 PM | #73 |
Ridin Dirty
Name: Ed
Location: Delaware
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i wouldnt mind doing this to mine.. ive got some experience cracking open car headlamps and ive actually done a set of custom projectors on a car once. looks good though guys!
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October 5th, 2011, 08:25 PM | #74 | |
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Name: Justin
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Quote:
Also the guy is local so if I think hes ripping me off I will go knock on his door hes about an hour away, but I go through there when I go snowboarding anyways
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October 5th, 2011, 08:49 PM | #75 |
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Yep, thanks for the repost of that quote and the initial find/crosslink Justin. As I said on the other thread, I'm definitely eager to see how he does it and what the results look like on our headlights.
From the ad on his site, if he's that good and can deliver for ~$500, I suspect he's about to have a bunch of business coming his way I wound up quoting what I did based on the materials I used/found for my build and the fact I don't do this for a living, so it takes a lot of my time that I could be using for other things, like riding
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October 6th, 2011, 04:49 PM | #76 | |
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Quote:
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October 6th, 2011, 06:00 PM | #77 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mahesh
Location: Silver spring,md
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Justin- what thread is his quote on?
Paul- ya im serious about this. But im a college student and money is tight so it might take me a while to get all tge parts together. If you have time and want to kill it a list of parts needed would be great. |
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October 6th, 2011, 06:17 PM | #78 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...7&postcount=21
Quote:
I'll start gathering the list. It's by no means what ya have to use (minus one or two items, where I don't know of an alternative) but it's what I did and it worked Some of the stuff will probably be skipped or just generally listed, like bolt sizes, simply because I don't remember anymore, but that's just a ~$10 run to the local hardware store. If you wind up going the way of the commercial do-it-for-you guy, it's no prob.
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October 6th, 2011, 06:25 PM | #79 |
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ha im broke too but Im not gonna chance something like this to my stupid ass... lol
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October 7th, 2011, 10:19 PM | #80 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Mahesh
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Ok cool. Thanks a lot paul
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