RPMs too high?

[alex.s]

I've never had this issue so i can't test any ideas out but its always had me curious. With the cdi issue, does it trigger the rev limiter earlier? or is it unaffected? purely a gauge reading issue? if its purely the gauge it sounds like the cdi is getting cross-talk to the tach lead maybe? just a thought.

[kkim]

can't answer your question about the rev limiter kicking in "early", but whatever the problem is with the CDI, it is internal to the CDI unit because changing it out (with a good similar OEM newgen unit, a used pregen CDI or an aftermarket unit such as the BRT) fixes the problem.

[alex.s]

very interesting. i don't know much about ignition systems but a CDI is capacitive and requires a specific number of alternator revs in order to be able to fire and shouldn't be able to trigger extra wasted sparks unlike a TCI or other control systems, right? so it shouldn't be that that CDI is actually firing and the gauge is correctly reading the fire rate, but rather somewhere in the gauge output its picking up extra triggers?

[kkim]

dunno... I'm not interested enough about why a black box fails to want to take one apart and analyze it's failure trends as I am about why a company with a known, reoccurring issue doesn't do something to correct it at the manufacturing level.

[whiteboy]

They are just following a ordered list of things to try and test and tach happens to be first on the list I wouldn't worry they will get it fixed the hard part is over wig which wa convincing them something was wrong. Only hong that souks is they will have your bike doing all this testing and work and I myself am to impatient for things like this. Hope it gets fixed soon

[ninjaprof]

Originally Posted by kkim

dunno, but until we know if the bike is making it to 6th or not, we can't help to isolate where the problem might be. If it is in fact not getting into sixth, it may be an operator problem or there might actually be something wrong with your transmission.

I just noticed today that if my revs are above 8-9, sometimes when I kick it up it misses and doesn't upshift. It seems to shift most reliably at 8 or below.

[Lockshi3]

Two weeks later.... still no bike .... grr..... really contemplating if the new tach does not work/fix the issue, that I will be fixing myself with a new CDI.....

[whiteboy]

I feel ur pain in a way.. I had to wait 2 months with my bike in th garage till I got to ride it. Best to be patient and let the dealer fix it. That said, I'd still be there every few days to look at it and see the progress. Good luck

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Lockshi3

Two weeks later.... still no bike .... grr..... really contemplating if the new tach does not work/fix the issue, that I will be fixing myself with a new CDI.....

Have you asked to have your bike returned until the CDI comes in? If they won't return the bike, ask to speak to the dealership owner/general manager and discuss the situation with them.

Any ETA on the part?

[ChaRLeS25]

Hi guys, I found this post and while reading about the CDI issue, I think I might have the same problem as well but for me it wouldn't change as it gets warmer, it seems like it has always been like this (bike is new, 520 km on it) When I do an indicated 80 km/h, the tach reads just a little bit over 6K, at 100 km/h it reads right on 8K and doesn't change after even an hour of non-stop driving, is that normal or is it high? Thanks!

[Lockshi3]

Actually you are not going to believe this.

It's been two weeks - I've been calling almost everyday, leaving messages etc. NO ANSWER. I am beyond furious. Again, they were only replacing the tach (no CDI)... and it's been this long. Tomorrow morning I'm either 1.) going straight there 2.) speaking to the service manager. this is utterly rediculous. at this rate, I just want it back ASAP.

so here's the thing... if the tach replacement didn't work... should I just go to another dealer that I heard was reputable to do the service or replace the CDI myself?

[ChaRLeS25]

Sorry to hear about your issues with the dealer. If I'd be you, I'd simply take it back and go to that other dealer you are talking about. That way you are sure that you won't mess with the warranty since it's new. Good luck!

[Lockshi3]

Thanks.

Picked it up today after it just sitting there for almost 3 weeks. They were pretty angry but oh well. Claimed it was taking too long because the tach was on back order... But then I mentioned well why didn't you answer any of my voicemails/calls to at least let me know?? That they couldn't answer. Anyway, riding it today wanted to see where it redlined and it was at 90. At 60, it's at 9k. Grr. At least I can ride it, but now I'm contemplating putting a new cdi myself.

I took off the passenger seat didn't see the cdi. How exactly do you get to it?

Thanks!

[kkim]

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=26765

[Lockshi3]

Thanks. I've checked out the DIY. The pictures are a bit small - does getting the CDI out require more than just removing the seat cowl? I'm just trying to understand where exactly it might be in relation to which seat. thanks! I think I am going to replace it on my own afterall.... hoping the used one I get is not a dud and that Sikuss and I can figure it out

[wayanlam]

you need to remove the two black side panels (+ screwdriver) then remove the drivers seat, for that you need an allen key like 6mm i think.

there are 2 bolts that holds that seat on. you need to slide it back to take it off. best to remove the passenger seat 1st.

i think you will then have access to the CDI, which is in a rubber cradle


thats an aftermarket cdi that i was installing. you can see where it goes more or less, in relation to the lock that releases the passenger seat

im not sure, but you might also need to take the back farings off as well, been a while since i replaced the CDI now...

ps. looking at the picture again, it sparked some memories... i think you also need to remove the metal plates that hold the lock in place, since that is sat right over the CDI, lol

[Lockshi3]

Thanks Wayan.

I actually wanted to ask how you like that aftermarket cdi? I was looking into the non programmable. I just want something reliable at this point. Small update- dealership has never called/left a message so I'm pretty sure they are annoyed that I took the bike that day and then probably never went ahead to order the part. I've pretty much decided I will be doing the CDI install myself. Which is why I was wondering more about the brt. If it's pretty reliable I'd rather go that route than another Kawasaki cdi. I do know about the brt not having that kickstand engine cutout, which is fine. For now, I've been riding the bike as is. I am thankful it's not not ridable, just slightly annoying when redline is at 90.

I'll keep this thread posted once I get the cdi in.

[kkim]

if you want to pursue it through warranty, you can contact the manufacturer directly through the district rep.

[Lockshi3]

Hm interesting. Do I just call the main Kawasaki service number? And then what is the protocol? They ship the part to a dealer? Sorry for the ignorance.

[kkim]

I have no direct knowledge on filing a claim with Kawasaki, but with Honda cars that I've had disputes with, the regional district contacts are in the warranty pamphlets you get when you purchase a car.

I suggest you read the warranty statement that you should have been given when you purchased your bike and read it carefully. If that's no help, get on Kawasaki's website and find out what can be done and for contact numbers. You are a consumer with a product under warranty.... you have legal rights, regardless if the dealer, who holds a franchise to Kawasaki, wants to help you or not.

[wayanlam]

if all else fails, then you have the option of either buying a pregen cdi from e-bay or something, which i believe kelly did. and ive heard that the pregen cdi's generally work better on our bikes!

if not, there are both the non programmable, and programmable after market cdi from BRT, which Matt (sportisi-usa) sells over there i think.

there are also various other after market cdi's nowadays too, probably even more expensive~ and im not sure on their brand/maker name.

however i would follow what kelly raccomended, and try to get it covered by the warranty 1st...

im not sure if ive missed some posts on here, but did you get a confirmation that it is the CDI thats bust? if you know anyone with another ninja250, you could "puppy eye" them into letting you test your bike with their cdi, to see if it fixes your problem.

if you still have the same problem with a different cdi that works fine on another bike, then you would know for sure that its actually not your CDI...

it would only take about 10~15 min to swap the cdi out. there are about 10 screws and 4 bolts that you need to remove on each bike, hehe

gl!

[Lockshi3]

Dropped it off today at another dealer. Thought I'd give someone else a shot with it since it's still under warranty. Unfortunately he said he has never heard of this issue but he was going to test it etc. They were really nice. Another strange thing happened today (never had this happen) ...never end lol... Shifting up through the gears to get up to highway speed in between the gears (forgot which, not sure if it even really matters), but as I have the clutch fully disengaged and then let the lever out while giving gas, rpms literally shot to 15k and bounced back down??? Wth. Did it a few times during my ride today and have never experienced it before. I was absolutely scared I was over revving somehow but wasn't necessarily sure since I'm still getting high readings from the tach

[kkim]

there is a rev limiter to prevent over revving, so you should be good there. Most likely you are finding a false neutral between gears? if so, most times it's due to operator error. adjusting the shift lever usually cures the problem.

[Lockshi3]

boo if it's operator error... So it's not the clutch slipping then? Am I letting the clutch out too fast? Sorry just trying to figure out what I did wrong. I kinda like where the lever is now- friction zone pretty far from the handlebar

[kkim]

no, not clutch lever... shift lever... down by your foot... thing that you change gears with.

[Lockshi3]

Of course of course

[Lockshi3]

Small update .. one week later ... it's still at the other dealer. They have talked to Kawasaki - they will only send the tach for now. This other dealer has also let me know that the bike is not currently registered with Kawi I called the old dealer up and left a message to tell them to register. That way I can get the work done under warranty. The guy at the new dealer said the part should be in by Wednesday - bike hopefully ready by Thursday... can't say I am super optimistic, but I'll let this dealer run through the process I guess... I'm debating if the new tach doesn't work (aka the CDI is the problem) if I should..

1.) test ride and if problem is not fixed, let it sit at the dealer some more all summer until it is fixed...
2.) take the bike home, ride the rest of the summer as is, and then come late fall/winter ask them to look further into the problem and request the CDI
3.) take bike home get myself a new CDI (either thru eBay or BRT)


any opinions?

[PArider]

Amanda, did you get this eventually figured out?

I'm asking because I just purchased a 2012 ninja 250 with 800 miles. After break in I took it on the interstate.

In sixth gear:

60mph is 9,000
70mph is 10,500
80mph is 12,000

Yes, 80 is just under redline!

That seems too high and I can't figure out why. Sprockets are stock, I'm pretty sure.