Tire recommendations for commuters?

[gfloyd2002]

Originally Posted by Alex

Really? The thread is started with a request for tires that are good for commuting, have long wear, and consistent handling, and the answer is the BT-016's? Color me skeptical.

In fairness, I was steering him away from 003s in the Bridgestone sport tire line. Sport Demons is where I personally went.

[almost40]

Originally Posted by Alex

Really? The thread is started with a request for tires that are good for commuting, have long wear, and consistent handling, and the answer is the BT-016's? Color me skeptical.

How about a tire life thread? Is there one that you know of??
Im with KKim if hes running 003's now the 16's are where its at for the guy. (I think thats where Kelly's head is...) Dont wana put the guy on wooded wheels in an emergency situation. IMO

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by kkim

again, define "better". what's good to you? what are you looking for in a tire? it's all about priorities between grip, mileage and price. rank those and I can possibly recommend a tire based on your priorities.

Sorry, I thought I was pretty clear in my posts.

1. Mileage
2. Grip
3. Price

Price isn't much of an issue. If there was a good balance between mileage and grip, I'd be all for that. I started riding in September with 4,700 miles on the clock and it's now at around 8,100. So I've gotten about 3k on the tires. There is a lot of tread depth left, but the tire is wearing unevenly due to my commute path. I'm looking for a tire with probably a hard compound at the crown to reduce this type of wear.

[kkim]

...and what do you feel is an acceptable amount of miles for a tire to deliver before it's worn out?

[CThunder-blue]

I don't know. This is my first bike. I'm used to cars and I only have experience with car tires, which I know is completely different. I will likely put 12-15k a year on my bike, so I would like to keep from having to buy new tires more than once during that interval.

[dubojr1]

Pics as promised...

Rear:









Front:

[kkim]

I doubt you'll get 12k out of the 016s... hell, you would be lucky to get 12k out of any of the stock tires that come with the bike, especially a rear tire, including the 045s. your best bet would be to find someone who wants to sell their IRCs that they've removed from their bike to put stickier tires on.

sorry, I don't know of a commuter tire (hard compound, lower traction, low price) that will give you that type of mileage... perhaps someone else does?

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

I will likely put 12-15k a year on my bike, so I would like to keep from having to buy new tires more than once during that interval.

Originally Posted by kkim

sorry, I don't know of a commuter tire (hard compound, lower traction, low price) that will give you that type of mileage... perhaps someone else does?

I think from his statement above kkim that he is saying a single tire change during the 12-15K would be ok. That means we are only looking for a tire that would last 6-7K per change right?

The only tire I would say would not meet that is the IRC's. Mine had a pretty good flat spot on them at 3,800 when I changed to the 016's. Either the 501's or the sport demon's should also meet the 6-7k requirement so that leaves price and traction. Being he is interested in track use also.... my vote is still the 016's.

[CThunder-blue]

No. I meant that I would like to have a tire last at least 10k.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

No. I meant that I would like to have a tire last at least 10k.

ok, well in that case I would say the 501's or the BT-45's. I don't know much about the Sport Demons so I have no opinion on them.

[bob706]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

No. I meant that I would like to have a tire last at least 10k.

My 501's lasted 14K. Alot of engine braking and straight Florida roads.

[Alex]

Sport Demons would be unlikely to make it 10k miles in any conditions. In fact, while a few tires might make that mileage on some bikes, at some point it has more to do with riding style than the tire. Any of the suggested tires can be burned out in well under 5k miles with aggressive acceleration/braking/turning.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by bob706

My 501's lasted 14K. Alot of engine braking and straight Florida roads.

wow, that's impressive... do you also own a chopper???

[bob706]

Originally Posted by kkim

wow, that's impressive... do you also own a chopper???

This coming from a guy who will hit his 7500 miles valve check in the year 2037

[kkim]

Originally Posted by bob706

This coming from a guy who will hit his 7500 miles valve check in the year 2037

at the rate I'm going, that year is optimistic, IMHO.

14K... out of your stock rear tire???

I'm on my third rear tire w/ 4k on the clock.

[spencerkro]

How long will the 016's last? (I do a mixture of long distance riding and spirited riding and ride somewhat aggressively) I've heard anything from 5-12k but that's on a variety of bikes, not just 250s. What do you guys expect to get out of yours?

[KELPHYN]

I have been running BT-45's for about the last 30,000kms. I have been getting about 10-12000kms per front tire and 6500-8500kms on a back tire. Tried set of kenda's as my first replacements from stock dunlops, total CRAP! IMO. Rear tire chunked and front tire cause a high speed wobble, had them on for about 100 miles. showed the shop owner the chunking problem on the rear and he agreed they weren't right. He gave me full credit on new set of the BT-45's and have been running them ever since. Great all around performance for the street. Although I have been thinking of trying a set Avon Roadriders this summer for a road trip as the trip will be about 5-6000kms and pretty much eat up a pair of BT's and the Avons are about $100-120 a set cheaper. So if anyone has tried the Avon's, opinions would be appreciated. If not I will let you all know how they stand up mid-summer.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by spencerkro

How long will the 016's last? (I do a mixture of long distance riding and spirited riding and ride somewhat aggressively) I've heard anything from 5-12k but that's on a variety of bikes, not just 250s. What do you guys expect to get out of yours?

Though it's still too early for me to tell with mine, I'd say with your riding style...5-7K. I'm not sure I believe that anyone would get 12k out of these unless we have another grandma on our hands...

[CThunder-blue]

So just to update: I ended up with the Bridgestone Bt-023 110/70/17 front and 150/70/17 rear. I wish they made them in a 140, but the 150 was the smallest they make. I decided to go with them because they're radial tires. From what I've read about radial vs. bias ply, the radials offer better grip because they can flex more. This increases the contact patch. They also are supposed to offer better tread life than bias ply tires. I struggled with the tire install but was able to do it over a weekend. Balancing took a long time as did mounting the tires. I had to have my wife help me with the rear tire since the 150 doesn't really like sitting in a 3.5" wheel. At least I know what to do in the future. I spent over $100 on the bead breaker, balancer, rim protectors, and rubber lube, but it should pay itself back in a few years time.

One thing about the 150 BT-023 tho, it's touching my chain guard. I noticed it before I began my commute this morning, so I just removed it. Anyone have a good solution for this? I'm thinking I can either add a washer to the backside of the guard or notch it out for the tire.

[dubojr1]

Originally Posted by CThunder-blue

One thing about the 150 BT-023 tho, it's touching my chain guard. I noticed it before I began my commute this morning, so I just removed it. Anyone have a good solution for this? I'm thinking I can either add a washer to the backside of the guard or notch it out for the tire.

Guess it depends on how much it is touching. I would suggest checking your rear tire alignment using the string method. It could possibly help by swinging the engine side of the tire away from the chain guard.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by dubojr1

Guess it depends on how much it is touching. I would suggest checking your rear tire alignment using the string method. It could possibly help by swinging the engine side of the tire away from the chain guard.

The alignment is dead on. I use a motion pro chain alignment tool. With the 150 and alignment, it clears the swing arms barely and so lightly rubs the chain guard. I'm sure I'll come up with a solution tonight.

[Alex]

The motion pro alignment tool (and all those designed like it) are useless. Read the main alignment thread (right here) all the way to the bottom, and you may be surprised at exactly how useless.

[sixer]

I do 89 miles one way 4x a week and some twisty riding on the week end almost 400m a week _ almost. I got about 8900m out of the gt 501 (great tire_ it did get flat in the center) - I then went with the battle ax and changed out at about 10000 +/- I like the battle axe a little better didn't get as flat in the center.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bedian]

Originally Posted by want1sobad

bt-45's no question. better grip than 501's, similar treadlife. i put 300+ miles on the bike a week - my bt-45's have 10k on them - still look good.

+1

[paterick4o8]

BT-45's
I had no issues in them.
not that I would do it again, but was even able to get a little knee down in them.

went 12K miles before changing.

[CThunder-blue]

Originally Posted by Alex

The motion pro alignment tool (and all those designed like it) are useless. Read the main alignment thread (right here) all the way to the bottom, and you may be surprised at exactly how useless.

Thanks Alex, I'll try the string method tonight. Although I wouldn't say the motion pro tool is useless if you were aiming to align the chain. After all, it's called a chain alignment tool, not a wheel alignment tool. After reading the rest of the DIY, I now understand that we shouldn't assume the chain alignment doesn't = wheel alignment. It would be nice if you could put a disclaimer in Kelly's post. I only read his initial post since most DIY's posts after the first are just thank you posts.

[Alex]

Fair point, Tri, thx. I made a slight edit to the first post of that thread.

[vkuchhal]

^^^ thanks for the information..

[CThunder-blue]

So, I'm at the end of the life on the 23's . The bike has about 23.5K on it now and I installed them when the bike was about 8.5K (give or take a few hundred miles). So it looks like I got 15k out of them and 1.5 years of commuting . The tires began to flatten in the center and I've lost most of the tread and they're pretty squared off. It's possible I might have gotten even more life out of them if I had my air compressor. I lent it to my dad and he's been doing renovations to his house. I'll need to get another set before the rainy season starts.

[thomason2wheels]

Originally Posted by kkim

I doubt you'll get 12k out of the 016s... hell, you would be lucky to get 12k out of any of the stock tires that come with the bike, especially a rear tire, including the 045s. your best bet would be to find someone who wants to sell their IRCs that they've removed from their bike to put stickier tires on.

sorry, I don't know of a commuter tire (hard compound, lower traction, low price) that will give you that type of mileage... perhaps someone else does?

I too am looking in the same direction as the op, and am probably try metzeler marathons. I have used that tire with good results on the vstrom. Avg 12 to 15k miles on the rear and over 20k on the front. Typically go through two rears for every front. I would guess on a lightweight and low powered bike like the ninja, the would wearlike iron. I have never had grip issues with that tire either.

[Joshorilla]

Is it possible for you to take it out on the weekend and lean it over some? Fix your tyres and it's fun!

[tooblekain]

One of the cheapest ways is to find someone with their track take offs...they usually sell them for ridiculously cheap.

But if you want brand new tires. Tires that I found that stick really well and last a very long time are Avon Roadriders AM26 (if they make them for the Ninjette size)....I use those on my Bonnie and replace like every 10K miles.

[Boom King]

Originally Posted by tooblekain

But if you want brand new tires. Tires that I found that stick really well and last a very long time are Avon Roadriders AM26 (if they make them for the Ninjette size)....

They do come in stock sizes although there was one forum member who had those on his Ninjette and did not like them.

[tooblekain]

Originally Posted by Boom King

They do come in stock sizes although there was one forum member who had those on his Ninjette and did not like them.

Tires are like women...preference.

Its the same way on the Bonneville forums. There are those that love them and those that despise them.

I know where you can get them for pretty cheap too. They are bias-ply tires and not radials.

If its just a commuting tire, longevity should be the primary goal.

I have used the Avon Roadriders in the twisties on my Bonneville and smoked guys on sportbikes. They grip well in the wet too. THere are many others that use them even for trackdays on their Bonnies and Thruxtons.

They squirm a bit when caught grooves like you would find on a freeway but that doesnt bother me. That's the common complaint for those that do not like them.

For the price, performance, and longevity, for me they cannot be beat.

You wont know until you try them.

[Boom King]

Originally Posted by tooblekain

They squirm a bit when caught grooves like you would find on a freeway but that doesnt bother me. That's the common complaint for those that do not like them.

I noticed that theme as well plus some saying that they didn't feel stable/smooth at high speeds. Otherwise, there are many positive reviews and they tested well at the track by a UK magazine.

[tooblekain]

Originally Posted by Boom King

I noticed that theme as well plus some saying that they didn't feel stable/smooth at high speeds. Otherwise, there are many positive reviews and they tested well at the track by a UK magazine.

Felt smooth for me on my Bonnie...and this is hitting the rev limiter topped out. Of course I didn't have a steering damper but with the Bonnevilles even with the OEM Metzelers anything past 75 it starts getting shaky. Ive taken some corners at high speeds on my Bonnie (not tracked it yet) and it felt solid.

No question they are great as a commuter and romping for me. I say try them. You don't like them, sell them on here or another Ninja 250 forum.

[thomason2wheels]

Just wondered if anyone had considered using 80 series tires instead of the factory 70s? Michelin pilot actives come in the factory section width with the taller profile. Seems like that would help correct speedo error and help wi5th slightly taller gearing as well. Theoretically the taller tires should last longer compared to the oe size.

[CThunder-blue]

Interesting idea! However, I'm not sure if the extra 10mm will fit under the front fender. Give it a shot and let us know

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by thomason2wheels

Just wondered if anyone had considered using 80 series tires instead of the factory 70s? Michelin pilot actives come in the factory section width with the taller profile. Seems like that would help correct speedo error and help wi5th slightly taller gearing as well. Theoretically the taller tires should last longer compared to the oe size.

I have a 120/70 on the front and it's a pretty tight fit ( but does not scrub at all). A 80 profile will definitely scrub. As far as the taller tire fixing the mechanical speedo error, it's not possible given the constraints of the front fender. With the 120/70 you may see a correction of 1-2 mph depending on the bike, but I wouldn't go much bigger than a 120 that the manufacturer designed for fit on a smaller (2.75 in.rim)

See my review http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=109350

[thomason2wheels]

Hi Blue, i cant see the advantage of going any wider as you have done, but taller makes good sense if enough clearance can be had between the fender and front tire. I would imagine slotting the bolts holes in the fender would give enough clearance. Any thoughts?