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Old October 4th, 2012, 05:32 PM   #81
hirubhaiambani
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I was 50lb overweight…

Stopped excessive snacking and lost 30lb in 8 months…. I know its slow…but it worked...

Cannot get rid of the other excess 20lb

Have to start working out
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Old October 4th, 2012, 05:38 PM   #82
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So much of it is eating. Cutting out the sugars and calories. Eating less red meat, eating more veggies and fruits, drinking more water, eating smaller portions and eating more often.

Combine all of that together with exercise and it will work.

I use a Garmin 310XT (longer distance running, now my wife's cycling computer) and Edge500 (cycling) computers to help calculate my calorie burn while working out. Well, those are bulky and I sometimes get tired of the "beeps" they give while I exercise (mainly my soccer interval workouts and training). So I got a Polar FT7 fitness watch.

I love it because its display is big. When I wear it as just a watch, the time and date are right there, easy to see. Then I simply strap on the included HR monitor, press one button twice, and I am going. It stores data, tells me my average HR, max HR, calorie burn, etc. No distance, but then again, I don't care about that. The big this is just wanting a good idea of my calorie burn and how hard I am pushing myself. I think I spent $100 on it...not too bad.

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Old October 7th, 2012, 12:49 AM   #83
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What works for me is focusing on eating a ton of protein, whether it be eggs/egg whites, 98/2% lean ground beef, or chicken breast. I found that you get stupidly full off of very few calories, plus you'll be maintaining muscle mass. Cook everything either by baking or by pan frying with a table spoon of olive oil. Get familiar with your spice rack. It helps a ton.
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Old October 7th, 2012, 06:00 PM   #84
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I think we can all use a little motivation. Why don't we start Monday morning with an "official weigh-in". Not actually listing your weight (I would NEVER tell anyone how bad I have been) but the amount of pounds you need to lose and see how we all do. We can motivate each other, maybe as a group we can get off our A** and do something about it.

So what do you say -- Monday sometime you can post what you are trying to lose?
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Old October 7th, 2012, 06:19 PM   #85
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210lbs! JUST WANT MY SEXY FIGURE BACK
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Old October 7th, 2012, 07:34 PM   #86
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210lbs! JUST WANT MY SEXY FIGURE BACK
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Old October 7th, 2012, 10:30 PM   #87
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The microwave broke so now I'm doing it OG style



das oppa gangnam style for use outa teh know
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Old October 8th, 2012, 12:45 AM   #88
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For anyone considering a department store road bike I would say go for it. I know almost anyone who has had/tried a more expensive bike will disagree with me. I personally put over a 1000km in about 40 days on $99 bike this summer without much need for maintenance. the dereuler needed adjustment twice. The only picture I could find of my bike was on the 'bikeofdoom' website. Simply put a cheap bike you don't care about locking up on the rack, it doesn't hurt the wallet and you will actually ride it. An expensive bike you can't take everywhere, you spend more time taking care of it because it was so expensive. Most of us would rather spend that money on the ninja so its unlikely we would even buy the more expensive bike. Once you get into biking you can easily recover $75 out of the $100 you invested and then go buy a more expensive bike. The most important thing is to buy the right sized bike.

Here is my bike:http://www.bikeofdoom.com/images/scmedalist.jpg
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Old October 8th, 2012, 07:42 PM   #89
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I GERT MAH BERCICLE!!!

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 8th, 2012, 08:10 PM   #90
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I think your fork is facing the wrong direction. Please double check and fix it if it is backwards. Do this before you ride it again. It can be a serious safety issue.
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Old October 8th, 2012, 08:20 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Confuzshuz View Post
I think your fork is facing the wrong direction. Please double check and fix it if it is backwards. Do this before you ride it again. It can be a serious safety issue.
I think you might be right. There was no instructions for putting the bike together so I totally winged it
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Old October 8th, 2012, 09:21 PM   #92
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Looks like the rear rim is not perfectly straight. Lame. Contacted the seller so they can send a replacement
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Old October 8th, 2012, 09:52 PM   #93
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Looks like the rear rim is not perfectly straight. Lame. Contacted the seller so they can send a replacement
you're probably better off bringing the rear wheel to a local lbs to get trued than sending back the old wheel because I think it would be cheaper.
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Old October 8th, 2012, 11:06 PM   #94
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They better replace it for free or I'll send the entire bike back. Amazon won't charge you for a return
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Old October 9th, 2012, 04:14 PM   #95
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Attention @All @Bike @Nerds

I got a response from the seller saying this.

Quote:
You need to have the rims trued. This is very similar to buying new tires and having to pay to balance them. Any local bike shop can true the rims for a small fee. This is the same with any factory direct bike you purchase. Please let us know if you have any questions.
So that's a thing?
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Old October 9th, 2012, 04:36 PM   #96
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They make you true your own rims?? They should be true when you buy them!

Sorry, let me explain.

True: when a rim is completely in one plane. A true wheel will be able to spin without appearing to wobble.

I've never gotten my rims trued. A brand new bike should not have wheels that are not true.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:00 PM   #97
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They make you true your own rims?? They should be true when you buy them!

Sorry, let me explain.

True: when a rim is completely in one plane. A true wheel will be able to spin without appearing to wobble.

I've never gotten my rims trued. A brand new bike should not have wheels that are not true.
Yea that's what I thought, hmmm what to do....
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:03 PM   #98
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Quote:
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Attention @All @Bike @Nerds

I got a response from the seller saying this.



So that's a thing?
What did I say about buying bikes from the internet?!?!?!?!

There's a reason why I say to avoid low cost internet bikes. All wheels should always come trued. However over time and usage, wheels do require adjustments. The reason they gave you that answer is so they don't have to spend their money to fix the problem. Based on previous responses, you may have 2 possible solutions: return the bike or get it fixed yourself. If you bought that from amazon and is sold by amazon, you may not have to pay for return shipping. However, if the bike is not sold by amazon, you may not even have the option to return it.

I bet if you bring the wheels to an lbs, it would cost about $13-15 per wheel to straighten out. Considering you had 3 motorcycles at 1 point, I think you afford it. Even after you fix them, your wheels may continue to go out of true rather easily if they are crappy.

IMHO, you didn't buy a useable bike. You're better off buying from Bikesdirect.com than some seller on Amazon. I don't even like recommending BD to newbies.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:04 PM   #99
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Well I looked it up and it looks like new wheels can go out of true rather quickly. I'll see what some shops around here charge. If it's too much I'll just return the bike and get a road bike locally
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:07 PM   #100
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I've got a set of Vuelta zero-something-nice's on my road bike, they've been ridden for 4 seasons and they're not out of true.

my mtb gets bashed on. Those are likely a little out of true, but not noticeably,and there's really nothing obvious to compare them with anyways, because I have disk brakes, not rim brakes. Out of sight out of mind right? lets ride!

but anyways, they should not give you brand new rims that are not true. That's dumb. Argue with them about that. Make a stink. That's poor sales. Even a Walmart can give you a bike with true wheels.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:13 PM   #101
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If you end up returning your bike, don't buy another hybrid. Get mountain bike and switch to hybrid tires or go straight road bike.

Being over 200lbs myself, I've been very picky with my wheels. I've got rolf prima vigor rs on my road bike. I've had them for a a few years and never needed truing. They are specific for heavier riders.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Confuzshuz View Post
What did I say about buying bikes from the internet?!?!?!?!

There's a reason why I say to avoid low cost internet bikes. All wheels should always come trued. However over time and usage, wheels do require adjustments. The reason they gave you that answer is so they don't have to spend their money to fix the problem. Based on previous responses, you may have 2 possible solutions: return the bike or get it fixed yourself. If you bought that from amazon and is sold by amazon, you may not have to pay for return shipping. However, if the bike is not sold by amazon, you may not even have the option to return it.

I bet if you bring the wheels to an lbs, it would cost about $13-15 per wheel to straighten out. Considering you had 3 motorcycles at 1 point, I think you afford it. Even after you fix them, your wheels may continue to go out of true rather easily if they are crappy.

IMHO, you didn't buy a useable bike. You're better off buying from Bikesdirect.com than some seller on Amazon. I don't even like recommending BD to newbies.
Lol listen, all I need is a bike that is capable of a little street riding. This bike would be perfectly fine if the rims were true. I'm going to go stink on the seller.

So here's the other part though. Riding the bike is turning out to be pretty fun, even though I can only go like 2 blocks lmfao. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a better bike if I knew I was going to keep riding it for the next couple years, thing is I just don't know if I will. If I'm going to stop riding in 6 months, theres no point in buying a better bike. But if I do really enjoy it maybe I will keep going.

So question, what would I have to spend to get a decent road bike? idgaf about how much it weighs or any dumb bullshit like that. All I would care about is solid shifting and a solid drive shaft or w/e you call it. I don't want any high end top of the line crap, just solid crap. What do you think? What would I have to spend?
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #103
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The price should be minimal.

FYI: People who buy wheels, or bikes, from a LBS are buying wheels that the shop trued. A wheel from the factory is seldom true. The reason BD is so cheap is that you pass up the middle man. So, you do the tweaking yourself.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:26 PM   #104
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Cheapest name brand road bike brand new is like $700.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:36 PM   #105
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I still think they should come trued...


now you've got me thinking about mtb wheels... hmmm. Vuelta makes a nice set of MTB rims for a mere $479 that I really like the looks of. But I would buy a new fork before I bought wheels.

EDIT: digging this fork. It's a little step up from mine, and gets good reviews. It's also still white so it will match the one I'm replacing It has preload (air pressure), lockout, and dampening. My current one just has preload and lockout. I think the recon also works with their remote lock out thingymajigger. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1126365_-1___

ok, I really need to stop looking at bike shtuff. a new road bike is on the way. Maybe a new fork for the mtb, and I still want leathers and a GoPro for the motorcycle so I can do some more track days next summer.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:51 PM   #106
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Lol listen, all I need is a bike that is capable of a little street riding. This bike would be perfectly fine if the rims were true. I'm going to go stink on the seller.

So here's the other part though. Riding the bike is turning out to be pretty fun, even though I can only go like 2 blocks lmfao. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a better bike if I knew I was going to keep riding it for the next couple years, thing is I just don't know if I will. If I'm going to stop riding in 6 months, theres no point in buying a better bike. But if I do really enjoy it maybe I will keep going.

So question, what would I have to spend to get a decent road bike? idgaf about how much it weighs or any dumb bullshit like that. All I would care about is solid shifting and a solid drive shaft or w/e you call it. I don't want any high end top of the line crap, just solid crap. What do you think? What would I have to spend?
If you stop riding in 6 months, you're gonna get fat again. If you don't intend on continuing to ride, forget the bike and go on a diet.

For a road bike, you will spend $700-800

For a mountain bike, you can get around $400-500

I take back what I said about the hybrid bike, just don't get a comfort bike (which is what you got).

Quote:
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The price should be minimal.

FYI: People who buy wheels, or bikes, from a LBS are buying wheels that the shop trued. A wheel from the factory is seldom true. The reason BD is so cheap is that you pass up the middle man. So, you do the tweaking yourself.
All my wheels (cheap alex wheels, mavic, rolf prima) were true straight from the manufacturer. The shops do true factory wheels occasionally since they can go out of true from shipping. I've spent plenty of time hanging out at a bike shop. I rarely see them truing new wheels.

The reason BD is cheap is because they sell many cheaper knock off brands. They are the middleman.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:54 PM   #107
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Cheapest name brand road bike brand new is like $700.
Link?
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Old October 9th, 2012, 05:55 PM   #108
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I still think they should come trued...


now you've got me thinking about mtb wheels... hmmm. Vuelta makes a nice set of MTB rims for a mere $479 that I really like the looks of. But I would buy a new fork before I bought wheels.

EDIT: digging this fork. It's a little step up from mine, and gets good reviews. It's also still white so it will match the one I'm replacing It has preload (air pressure), lockout, and dampening. My current one just has preload and lockout. I think the recon also works with their remote lock out thingymajigger. http://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1126365_-1___

ok, I really need to stop looking at bike shtuff. a new road bike is on the way. Maybe a new fork for the mtb, and I still want leathers and a GoPro for the motorcycle so I can do some more track days next summer.
Interested in an 05 Fox Talas RL 120 for $150 + shipping? It's only got 500 miles on it. It's blue and has scratches on the stanchions, but no leaks.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 06:03 PM   #109
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Link?
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...1_h2_compact/#
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...5/11498/55823/
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...z/allezcompact
very comfy: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...secteurcompact
http://www.cannondale.com/2013/bikes...mpact-crankset
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Old October 9th, 2012, 06:04 PM   #110
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I will start with very comfy
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Old October 9th, 2012, 06:12 PM   #111
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any of these basic (bottom row) aren't bad either:
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/multi-use/sirrus
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...use/crosstrail

and that "very comfy" one is in terms of a road bike
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Old October 9th, 2012, 07:01 PM   #112
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All my wheels (cheap alex wheels, mavic, rolf prima) were true straight from the manufacturer. The shops do true factory wheels occasionally since they can go out of true from shipping. I've spent plenty of time hanging out at a bike shop. I rarely see them truing new wheels.

The reason BD is cheap is because they sell many cheaper knock off brands. They are the middleman.

Meh, I can always find a fault form the MFG. True that BD uses cheaper stuff...why do you think they are so affordable?

I had a slight wobble in one of my 1.5 wheels from the factory. Took me a whole 30seconds to fix, no biggy. However, my wife purchased a bike for my niece from Walmart. Talk about a nightmare. 2 hours pouring over the bike and it still was not right. Man, now THOSE things are a POS.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 07:38 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Confuzshuz View Post
Interested in an 05 Fox Talas RL 120 for $150 + shipping? It's only got 500 miles on it. It's blue and has scratches on the stanchions, but no leaks.
Maybe. I've never used the thru-axle fork, so I'm not sure what that involves. Would I be able to use my current rim/hub/skewer with that?

Also, scratched stanchions kinda make me nervous. I've replaced the fork seals on the ninjette and that was a major PITA
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Old October 9th, 2012, 07:51 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Maybe. I've never used the thru-axle fork, so I'm not sure what that involves. Would I be able to use my current rim/hub/skewer with that?

Also, scratched stanchions kinda make me nervous. I've replaced the fork seals on the ninjette and that was a major PITA
It's not a thru axle, standard skewers are fine. I'll have to show you pics of the stanchions. I don't think replacing the seals are as difficult as the ninjette, but not sure since I've never done it on the fork. It could probably use an oil and seal replacement since it's older, but it only has 500 miles and isn't leaking.

Btw, these are disc only. No v brake mounts.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 07:59 PM   #115
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Yeah send me some pictures so I can think it over. I think that might be too tall for my bike. I've got 100mm travel on my bike right now, which is why I was looking at the Recon.

I have disks, that's all good. My bike is a Giant Yukon FX. The fork is the biggest compromise, the rest of it I love. It gets the job done, but I'm kinda looking tentatively at a fork.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 08:00 PM   #116
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n00b question!!!! Whats the difference between mountain and road bikes aside from tires and seat height? Would a nub like me even care? Are the road bikers gna laugh at me if I try and take a mountain bike in the twisties? lol
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Old October 9th, 2012, 08:11 PM   #117
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The frames are built for difference kinds of abuse/weight requirements.

The components are the same way.

Fat tires rock on terrain, skinny tires rock on roads.

No, you shouldn't care. Yes, they'll laugh, until your butt isn't sore and you can go ride trails. I've seen plenty of guys on mtb's with knobbies riding the hilly twisty stuff; they gotta get their exercise too.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 08:37 PM   #118
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I ride my MTB on street all the time. I actually have some road tires that fit my 29" wheels.
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Old October 9th, 2012, 09:30 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by Jiggles View Post
n00b question!!!! Whats the difference between mountain and road bikes aside from tires and seat height? Would a nub like me even care? Are the road bikers gna laugh at me if I try and take a mountain bike in the twisties? lol
For someone who just bought a comfort bike, why would you care what other bikers think?

the easiest way to figure out the differences and intended purposes between a road bike and mountain bike is to compare them to a motorcycle:

road bike = sport bike
mountain bike = dirt bike
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Old October 9th, 2012, 11:38 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
The frames are built for difference kinds of abuse/weight requirements.

The components are the same way.

Fat tires rock on terrain, skinny tires rock on roads.

No, you shouldn't care. Yes, they'll laugh, until your butt isn't sore and you can go ride trails. I've seen plenty of guys on mtb's with knobbies riding the hilly twisty stuff; they gotta get their exercise too.
Helpful

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
I ride my MTB on street all the time. I actually have some road tires that fit my 29" wheels.
Helpful

Quote:
Originally Posted by Confuzshuz View Post
For someone who just bought a comfort bike, why would you care what other bikers think?

the easiest way to figure out the differences and intended purposes between a road bike and mountain bike is to compare them to a motorcycle:

road bike = sport bike
mountain bike = dirt bike
Not helpful. Revise and resubmit

Ok, I'ma look at mountain bikes then if I end up returning this one
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