September 1st, 2009, 02:19 PM | #81 |
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Sorry. I took the timing from 42 deg @10,0000 rpm to 44 deg @ 10,000 rpm to 13,000 then 40 deg at 13500 and 40 deg at 14,000 and 14,500.then the limiter. I am still waiting fro the shop to send me the graphs but the bike was measuring max power at 12500 then a very slight drop off to the limiter.
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September 1st, 2009, 08:49 PM | #82 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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Did you dyno with an a/f ratio?
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September 2nd, 2009, 03:35 AM | #83 |
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Yes I did . I started with Keihin #118 jets . I figured it was way rich . So I was prepared to re jet. But all I did was add timing and that burned up the fuel and made power. I will post up the results.
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September 2nd, 2009, 07:34 AM | #84 |
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Name: Greg
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Could you list the curve you used for the timing? Just want it for future use in case I can get all the parts for programmable FI/ignition with a Microsquirt. It would get me in the ballpark.
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September 2nd, 2009, 09:15 AM | #85 |
The Sportisi Master
Name: Matt
Location: Chico
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Well that's generally how it works
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September 2nd, 2009, 11:46 AM | #86 |
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Name: Z
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If I am not mistaken, wouldn't 100 octane fuel provide less power than 89 for an engine not designed to use it?
Is this your only mod or are you running a full exhaust? |
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September 2nd, 2009, 03:14 PM | #87 |
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I have raised the compression and adjusted the cam timing . I have a full Moto GP exhaust . Plus a couple other things . The reason I am tuning with rocket 100 .Is because to race in the "GAS"class at Maxton . I have to use the track supplied fuel . Otherwise I would run 93 pump gas.
You are correct that higher octane fuel will make an engine not tuned to take advantage of it make less power. Since I have the to use the 100 octane fuel and I can adjust my timing . I wanted to see how far I could push it . The surprise to the dyno operator was how well the engine responded . |
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September 2nd, 2009, 03:17 PM | #88 | |
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Quote:
You need a dyno and the fuel you intend to use to do it properly. |
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September 4th, 2009, 08:21 AM | #89 |
self wrencher
Name: john
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wow. 118 jet? That's crazy rich. I'm running 112 and I think it's a little rich in hot weather but in cold it runs great. you sure you don't have a turbo on that thing?
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September 12th, 2009, 05:49 PM | #90 |
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Final Installment of the DIY - Custom Wiring Harness
When I did the original conversion, I just tapped into the individual wire in the OEM harness. This afternoon, I removed all the blue taps and disconnected the two connectors from the '88-94 CDI. The following picture shows the '08+ connector on the left and the 2 '88-94 connectors that need to connect to the '08.
This picture shows the 2 '88-94 connectors disconnected and removed from the taps. After some wire cutting, crimping, and soldering, along with a bit of electrical tape, we have the plug 'n play adapter In this picture, the '08 plug (female) is on the left and the "new" (male) end of the plug 'n play adapter in on the right And here is the plug 'n play adapter installed and ready to ride. Yes, the engine started right up, just like the last time! The pinouts of the '88-94 male connector shown above are detailed in the following FRONT view: Last futzed with by g21-30; September 12th, 2009 at 06:41 PM. Reason: Previous pinout was REAR view!!! Very confusing. |
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September 12th, 2009, 06:16 PM | #91 |
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looks good Sam
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September 12th, 2009, 06:45 PM | #93 |
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Thanks Kim and Eric. Check my post again, I had to correctly state the VIEW of the connector.
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September 13th, 2009, 07:00 AM | #94 |
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Name: Thomas
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Very professional looking job, good deal.
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September 14th, 2009, 01:32 PM | #95 |
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Nice work. Very clean. So starting with the kickstand down still doesn't work?
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September 14th, 2009, 02:01 PM | #96 |
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It starts with the kickstand down, up, in between. It will even start in gear without the clutch lever squeezed! But it might fall if I did that last move, so I don't do it. Anyway, the switch is disconnected and the wires leading to the main harness have been jumped.
See below: The blue arrow points to the disconnected wires leading to the side stand switch. |
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October 20th, 2009, 01:03 PM | #97 |
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So, I have a pregen CDI, pregen wiring harness on the way. Now I need the top connector (male) in this picture to make a plug and play harness?
Am I missing anything else to do the conversion? Thanks, Sam, for the head's up. |
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October 20th, 2009, 02:37 PM | #98 |
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Most important item, the wiring diagrams in this thread! Also, since I never found out whether my side stand switch coincidentally went bad with the conversion, you might consider getting this 2 pin set (male and female) http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El...-HM/sm-hm.html. I think just the female portion could be used as a jumper, but get both in case it's not the same as the OEM plug. I made the mistake and bought the FUJ.... 2 pin version and had to use a set (male/female) for the kickstand jumper. Of course, you could always just pull the pins and wrap with wire and tape for a quickie fix.
Let me know, if you run into any problems. |
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October 20th, 2009, 02:56 PM | #99 |
self wrencher
Name: john
Location: houston
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just buy the non-programmable BRT and be done with it..it's plug & play and have two maps to play with. Map #2 (aggressive map) is similar to the old stock CDI unit
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October 20th, 2009, 03:37 PM | #100 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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you say po-tay-toe, I say po-tah-toe.
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October 20th, 2009, 09:16 PM | #101 |
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This isn't exactly a new thread, but it's the first time I read through it.. Great DIY! |
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October 29th, 2009, 04:12 PM | #102 | |
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Quote:
I'm working on the jumper harness now. Is that pinout picture of the jumper harness connector that was purchased from East Beaver that connects to the new gen wiring harness? I take it I'm looking at the pinout as if I'm the receiving connector on the new gen wiring harness side, correct? Just trying to make absolutely sure I'm clear on which wire goes where. I haven't even taken the bike apart yet and am trying to construct the harness before even going in there to proof the plug and play aspect of your mod. Thanks so much for your help. Looking forward to a zipper bike. |
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October 29th, 2009, 04:29 PM | #103 |
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October 29th, 2009, 04:30 PM | #104 |
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Thanks!
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October 29th, 2009, 04:32 PM | #105 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Sam
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Leave about 8" of wire sticking out of the two (2) "old" connectors; otherwise, you will run out of room to store the wires. You can use the seat size (pic below) to guess the size of the harness.
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October 29th, 2009, 04:35 PM | #106 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Thanks, again... good tip.
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October 29th, 2009, 04:35 PM | #107 |
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October 29th, 2009, 08:35 PM | #108 |
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Finished the harness. Once done, I had some problems with the new connector fitting the wiring harness on the bike. I'm so much smarter than anyone else, I soldered the pins to the wires instead of crimping. In doing so, I created more problems than it was worth. If you decide to do this mod, I suggest crimping the new pins to the wires instead of soldering unless you know exactly how the connectors they use are designed to work with one another.
I also bypassed the kickstand switch and then started the bike. It started right up and idled fine. I didn't take the bike out, but a ride report will be made when I get the chance to do so. Thanks again, Sam. I followed your directions on making the harness and didn't have one problem. Could not have done this without all the legwork you did to make this happen. Mahalo!! Can't wait to take the bike out and wring it's neck |
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October 30th, 2009, 03:50 AM | #109 |
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Way to go Kelly!!!!!!! Little hint after the fact. I used a butane soldering iron with a 1/8" tip. Since the crimper I bought was too wide, I used needle nose pliers to roll one side of the terminal at a time and then crimped the circle. I then soldered the crimp, letting the solder flow under the slot, which holds the terminal in the waterproof housing. It fits just right.
Since I've had too many crimps come loose, I always solder all connections. |
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October 30th, 2009, 10:33 AM | #110 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Yep. I learned through my NASA soldering course to never trust crimped connections. Of course, this was for 60's and 70's era discrete component boards during the manned space flight era where 100% reliability was priority one, but the fundamentals are the same for any connector.
For me, soldering is the only way to fly. |
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October 30th, 2009, 11:15 AM | #111 |
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KKim have you had a chance to "wring its neck" yet?
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October 30th, 2009, 12:28 PM | #112 |
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October 30th, 2009, 02:13 PM | #113 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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October 30th, 2009, 02:16 PM | #114 |
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Yes, but it's an acquired skill that takes much practice to perfect and to upkeep. I wouldn't suggest anyone doing this mod that has never soldered before learn when doing the connectors for this DIY.
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October 30th, 2009, 02:27 PM | #115 |
IC2(SW)
Name: Kerry
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^Soldering is cake
If your messing with wires and cant solder, maybe you shouldnt be messing with wires |
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October 30th, 2009, 02:55 PM | #116 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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nah, I was talking about soldering on multilayer boards of today with regards to up keeping skills and the microscopic components mounted on those boards.
The connector for the new gen side of the harness was the smaller pin type found on newer cars, not the large connector/pins that was on the pregen harness. That was a very good illustration of the improvements Kawasaki made when they designed the new gen... some of the hidden updates no one thinks about when they speak of the differences between new and pre gens. |
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October 30th, 2009, 04:04 PM | #117 |
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And the suspense builds!!!!!! I guess kkim is out "wringing the neck"!
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October 30th, 2009, 05:04 PM | #118 |
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Okay, I took the bike out for a short shakedown cruise. I have been doing a lot of small tweaks here and there and have not ridden the bike since doing so.
The bike warms up easier, but that could be due to me richening the mixture screws by 1/4 turn... More on that later. First impression on the highway out back of my house... seems to rev a bit easier once I get above 6-7k, but was a bit sluggish getting there. hmmm... Once warmed, I push the bike through some easy back road turns and the bike flicks very easily. Yep, dropping the forks since my last ride seems to have quickened the steering. Farther into the back road, I rev the bike past the 7k mark and notice a slight boost in forward momentum. I'm unable to tap the bike out to redline and above due to it being a residential neighborhood. So, the bike seems to have picked up some midrange grunt around the 6-9k area. Riding home, I'm running about 4-5K and I notice there isn't as much power as before... it just goes flat in that area, necessitating a downshift. I didn't need to do that before. hmmm.... Okay... Bozo moment. I think when I went to richen up the carbs, I might have turned one mixture screw the wrong way. I need to strip the bike back down and reset the mixture settings. I do believe once properly set, the bike will pull cleanly from 3k on up as it did before. I haven't ridden the bike up my usual mountain twisties, so, no, I haven't wrung it's neck just yet. To tell you the truth, I'm just happy the bike runs. You just never know when you have an idiot working on the bike. |
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October 30th, 2009, 06:06 PM | #119 |
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We've all done it before. We forget to only make one change at a time. Hmm, should I put that super duper CDI conversion unit on orrrrrrrrrrrrrr should I diddle with the mixture screws? Oh, what the hell, I think I will do both. I wonder which change caused that to happen.
Pardon my diversion, I just poked myself and realized I was responding to your last post. Now, back to your regularly scheduled program. Inquiring minds want to know. Did you try the kickstand operation, after the CDI swap, prior to bypassing the kickstand switch? |
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October 30th, 2009, 06:17 PM | #120 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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no, I took your word for it and immediately bypassed the switch. I normally don't make multiple changes at once just for these reasons, so I failed to listen to myself, but then again, who does?
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