October 18th, 2009, 11:22 AM | #81 | |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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Quote:
I suggest reading throught the oil change DIY and see if you feel that is something you are capable of. No swing arm stand needed and the tools are in your bike's tool kit, as Craig noted. |
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October 18th, 2009, 11:25 AM | #82 |
ninjette.org member
Name: anomolli
Location: Rockville, MD
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R (red) Posts: 39
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I'm comfortable using tools, it's the bike i'm not comfortable with... LOL Power tools aren't foreign to me, but the mechanics of bikes and cars for that matter are something i've never ventured into. As with any uncharted territory, there's a bit of hesitation.
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October 18th, 2009, 11:41 AM | #83 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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If you are willing to learn, doing your own simple maintenance items on the bike is a great way to learn how and become intimate with your ride at the same time.
er... no power tools, though. |
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October 18th, 2009, 11:58 AM | #84 |
ninjette.org member
Name: anomolli
Location: Rockville, MD
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R (red) Posts: 39
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October 18th, 2009, 07:26 PM | #85 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Craig
Location: Asheville, NC
Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 98
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You sound like you'd have no problem tackling an oil change job...the question is whether the satisfaction you'd receive from doing it exceeds the labor expended...or, fairly often in the beginning, the satisfaction garnered from solving the "second" problem produced trying to perform the original task.
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October 19th, 2009, 04:40 AM | #86 | |
Cat herder
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Quote:
Have you seen what shop labor rates are? Besides the financial incentive, greater familiarity with your bike is an excellent reason to spin your own wrenches. Nothing in the world beats understanding your machine. Tool tips FWIW: - Buy the maintenance manual. You can also get it online for free if you hunt around. You WILL NEED IT eventually. - Do not buy cheap-a$$ tools from the dollar store. Ever. Craftsman (Sears) are not the greatest, but they've got a lifetime, no-questions warranty. You break a tool, take it back to the store an they give you a new one. The tool catalog makes good bathroom reading.... - Those unfamiliar with tools routinely overtighten fasteners, and that can be a BAD thing. Buy a decent torque wrench. The click type, not the beam-and-pointer type. It'll cost you a lot, but a stripped-out oil pan or cylinder head is WAY more expensive. Buy quality, buy it once, and be done with it. My Sears digitork is, if I recall, now over 20 years old (they still make the exact same wrench) and paid for itself years ago. Read the directions. Somebody posted recently (here or on KF) that he thought the torque wrench would let go completely and spin freely when he reached the torque value. So he kept pulling and pulling and pulling... you get the picture. USE YOUR BRAIN. Don't be that guy. - If you just can't do a torque wrench yet, here's a trick: When you're tightening the bolt, get the socket (or wrench) on the fastener and shift your grip so you're pulling the wrench with just the tips of one or two fingers. Tighten until you feel significant pressure in your fingertips... say, until the tips of your fingers start to turn pale. Each finger you use is good for about ten foot-pounds. This is sort of a poor man's torque wrench. The idea is you can only pull the wrench so hard before your fingers pop off. The fewer fingers you've got on it, the lower the torque. For your drain plug and oil filter cover bolts use two fingers. When you reach torque, STOP! Don't give it "just one more yank to be sure." This is horribly crude, but it will help prevent you from overtorquing. BTW, I read somewhere that the reason smaller wrenches are shorter than larger wrenches is to make it harder to overtorque fasteners. |
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October 19th, 2009, 11:54 AM | #87 |
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+1!!!!
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November 1st, 2009, 08:04 PM | #88 |
noob in training
Name: Ilya
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Join Date: Aug 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250R (sold) '05 SV650S Posts: 175
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I don't understand the point of draining out the perfectly clean oil in the spring. If the bike is not being used all winter, how is the fresh unused oil getting any worse?
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November 3rd, 2009, 05:10 PM | #89 |
ninjette.org member
Name: mike
Location: chicago
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 68
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Can someone post pictures on how to get to the battery and remove it step by step. I've never maintained a bike before. My old scooter just sat every winter before I sold it and I never had 1 issue with it. Only thing was the battery would completely die. I had a charger and just charged it for 30 minutes and BAM nice and fresh.
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December 1st, 2009, 08:45 PM | #90 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: dawn
Location: portland, or
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is there anything that needs to be done if it doesn't get super cold? i am still planning on riding at least once or twice a month through winter...more or less depending on the weather....it never gets super cold here...i just figured i'd start my bike and run it for 15 min or so once a week....is that fine or is there anything else i should do????
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December 1st, 2009, 09:01 PM | #91 |
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Name: Rick
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If the bike is not going to be stored for the winter and you are going to be periodicly riding and keeping fresh fuel in the tank than there is no need to "winterize". The one thing I would be sure to check is the antifreeze/coolant to make sure the concentration is strong enough in case the temp gets below freezing. 50% anti-freeze and 50% water.
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December 1st, 2009, 09:46 PM | #92 |
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Might also run some seafoam (~1/4 can) in each tank, to ward off carb gunk just in case it's a little longer than expected between rides.
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December 2nd, 2009, 12:10 PM | #93 |
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Name: Alex
Location: Belfast, ME
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I second what Andrew said. Don`t buy cheap tools----your knuckles will not forgive you. I will add this--If at all possible, avoid adjustable wrenches. They tend to damage fasteners. Torque Wrenches: The best tool you will ever own. The Kawa Factory Shop Manual gives a torque spec. on every fastener on the bike. Invaluable info. Nashbar.com has a 1/4"Drive Torque Wrench with the necessary Allen Head sockets available for $50.00. That little wrench will handle anything on the bike except axles and sprockets. For that I have the same Sears wrench Andrew has. I am a bicycle mechanic. Bicycles are built light and therefore fragile Overtorquing a fastener on a Carbon Fibre frame spells disaster. Ditto on Aluminum, Titanium, Scandium, and Chrome Moly. The best thing anybody contemplating MC mechanics can do, is to first "Demystify" your bike. Go to Barnes&Noble and get a book on basic MC maintenance. A good book to start you would be Hugo Wilson`s "Motorcycle Owner`s Manual" Also it is time well spent to just sit at the computer and read the DIY`s on this forum. I have my old laptop in my shop for that reason. Trust me, We are not talking Rocket Science here.
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December 2nd, 2009, 12:53 PM | #94 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bob
Location: CA
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Thanks for the encouragement Alex. I am learning that all those statements are more true than I previously realized
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December 2nd, 2009, 01:49 PM | #95 | |
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Name: rock
Location: greenville, south carolina
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): black Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
As far as the tool stuff goes ... I've been a mechanic for 20 years now, I do automotive for a living but have built engines for race sleds and race bikes (I kinda know a little bit of stuff). Most of my tools are snap-on but I do own some craftsman, mac, cornwell... even some crap from wally world and harbor freight. Most important thing I can stress when using a tool on your bike (other than knowing how to use the tool) is that your tool is the correct size and the tool is in good shape. The tips of my screw drivers, my allen bits, torx bits, etc are always in like-new condition. If they get damaged or show signs of wear, I get them replaced. Using an allen wrench that is worn in nice new (lock tite-ed) allen bolt will at least screw the bolt's socket up if not strip it out... just as a worn/damaged tip of a screw driver will tear the head of the screw up and a worn/damaged socket or wrench will bugger up the head of a bolt or a nut. Make sure your tools are in good shape! That said... low cost tools deform much easier and are more prone to cause problems... you really do get what you pay for. Last futzed with by rockNroll; December 2nd, 2009 at 02:04 PM. Reason: I don't need no steenking reason! |
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December 2nd, 2009, 03:13 PM | #96 |
ninjette.org member
Name: mike
Location: chicago
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 68
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Does anyone have a step by step instruction on how to access the battery on the 09 Ninja 250s?
I would really like to know, how often should I roll the bike around in the garage so I don't get flat spots? |
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December 2nd, 2009, 04:39 PM | #97 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Montreal, Canada
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 171
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Did the dirty deed today. Complete noob and I seemed to have done a good job. Definitely doable if you have a brain.
So far I washed, waxed, lubed the chain changed the oil, put stabil. All I got left is to pull out the battery and drain the carbs but I need some time to do that. I let it run with the Stabil and I just rode it today so i'll do the rest on Christmas break. 2 things. Yes I know you guys hate stabil. Problem is I bought a bottle before reading this and I wasn't about to go on a hunt for a special stabilizer while one rots on my shelf. and I must say, I put some Motul 5100 and for the 5 minutes I spent riding to get the stabil in the carbs it made the gear changes feel like butter, eliminate 95% of the clunk and it revved much smoother. LOL without changing anything i can tell that the bike runs about 100-200RPM lower when warmed up.
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Back on the road again Season 2010 Dam it feels good! |
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December 2nd, 2009, 04:43 PM | #98 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Montreal, Canada
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 171
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Page 39 and 40 to remove the seat and 129-134 about the battery. Owner's manual, very very handy. Looking to get the maintenance manual but the basics are covered in the owners manual
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Back on the road again Season 2010 Dam it feels good! |
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December 2nd, 2009, 04:50 PM | #99 |
ninjette.org member
Name: mike
Location: chicago
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Blue Ninja 250R Posts: 68
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I can't find my damn owners manual or bill of sale! GRRRRRR
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December 2nd, 2009, 05:17 PM | #100 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Rob
Location: Montreal, Canada
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Ninja 250R Posts: 171
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Somebody has a link to an online manual.
But it's simple. Take off the panel with the 1 screw right under the seat, next unscrew the seat and take it off, and voila, access to the battery.
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Back on the road again Season 2010 Dam it feels good! |
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February 20th, 2010, 09:47 PM | #101 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: dawn
Location: portland, or
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 ninja 250r modded, 73 honda cl200, 74 kawasaki 400 triple Posts: 255
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uuuhhhhhh...so intended to start my bike once or twice a week through winter and ride on days that it's not too cold or rainy....weeell....i decided that i wanted to learn how to do stuff (like maintenance and such) myself...so i took off the seat and tail and unhooked the tail tail light...in the process i broke my undertail...long story short...fixing my undertail turned out to be the hardest, most time consuming part of the whole thing.....my bike's been sitting since october....so at this point, should i do anything to it? maybe run some seafoam through??? and if so where all does it go...i know how to do it on a car, but not the bike.... thanks
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August 12th, 2010, 01:00 PM | #102 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Tin
Location: NJ
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 black 250r (sold); '09 black zx6r Posts: 903
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Do FI bikes have float bowls or the bowls only come on carb bikes?
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August 12th, 2010, 01:24 PM | #103 |
Cat herder
Name: Gort
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A reasonable question, I suppose....
No. A bowl (and the float in it) is an integral part of a carburetor and is not necessary in a fuel injection system. The bowl is the direct fuel supply for the carb jet. In a way, it's kind of like the tank on a flush toilet. Water is held in a tank and released into the toilet bowl when you press the lever. In a carb, fuel is held in the bowl and released into the airstream in response to engine vacuum. The float is connected to a valve that ensures the level of fuel in the bowl is kept constant so the bowl does not overflow (same idea as the float in a toilet tank). An FI bike works differently. Fuel is squirted directly into the airstream through an injector. The fuel is under pressure, like a garden hose. Imagine your toilet again... instead of dumping water out of the tank to flush it, you could spray water from a fire hose directly into the bowl and get the same effect. The fire hose is like a fuel injector. |
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August 19th, 2010, 12:07 PM | #104 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Chris
Location: California
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: 129
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any problem with putting it on stands and just warming it up once a week?
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August 19th, 2010, 12:11 PM | #105 |
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Name: 1 guess :-)
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It's generally not recommended, as if the engine isn't brought up to operating temp and run under load for awhile, the condensation never gets out of the oil and can quickly break down. If you're changing the oil at the end of the winter before riding again, perhaps that would help that concern. Best way is to just ride all year.
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October 23rd, 2010, 07:11 AM | #106 |
ex-ninjette.org guru :o
Name: Trevor
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2003 SV1000 S Posts: 475
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well, it's getting cold enough here that it's time to put it away for the winter.
I have a battery tender, can I leave the battery in the bike over the winter with this hooked up, keeping in mind it gets down to -20C and lower on occasion, or should I pull it out and bring it in? |
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October 23rd, 2010, 08:00 AM | #107 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Wayne
Location: Brookfield, MA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Honda CBR250R Posts: 585
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Quote:
Someone is probably going to say "condensation" or some such, but I find it hard to believe that the amount of condensation in such a small engine would hve that much effect on unused oil. Or that the oil would somehow "break down" in such a short time. This "recommendation" has always been suspect to me and even seems to border on OCD behavior. Can anyone provide a solid link or some kind of written proof that this is a good idea? Adding more waste oil to the environment is a bad thing and the benefits of doing so should be based on proven results, not because some people think it's a "good idea". |
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October 23rd, 2010, 10:33 AM | #108 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bob
Location: CA
Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 Ninja 250r, '14 CBR500r Posts: A lot.
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The absolute BEST way to winterize your bike is to move to a warmer climate and ride daily!
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October 23rd, 2010, 10:12 PM | #109 |
ninjette.org member
Name: b
Location: midwest
Join Date: Jun 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 ninja 250r Posts: 119
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with work and college i am only able to ride 1 or 2 times a week. i just don't see the point of draining the bowls, fuel treatment ect ect if i ride around the block 2-3 times a month during winter. wouldn't that almost equate to my riding now?
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October 24th, 2010, 08:36 PM | #110 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Jessica
Location: Calgary, Canada
Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): '09 Metallic Diablo Black Posts: 298
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Just put my bike away for the winter yesterday. Only thing I have to do now is take out the battery and put a cover on it.
Snowing tomorrow... |
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November 1st, 2010, 04:41 PM | #111 |
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Name: Dave
Location: Michigan
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November 1st, 2010, 07:43 PM | #112 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Bob
Location: CA
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Still in my mid-season jacket
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November 3rd, 2010, 10:49 PM | #113 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Hey everyone, this is my first post in this forum and I want to say I am glad to be a member of this great community of fellow riders. I just bought my first bike about a few weeks ago, a used 2009 Ninja 250r. Of course with winter coming, I am thinking of getting the bike ready for storage. After reading numerous posts on various forums, it seems the greatest common concern is gum and varnish formation of the fuel. With the help of Google, I found this interesting article courtesy of Practical Sailor Magazine (they probably wouldn't sell too many issues if they called it Impractical Sailor); http://www.goldeagle.com/UserFiles/f...icle%20PSL.pdf.
It is a bit of scientific read but it gives a good understanding of what is happening to the fuel inside that tank. It's obviously aimed at marine enthusiasts but other them some key points about 2-stroke engines, fuel is fuel no matter what type of tank it is in. Some key points I gathered from the article:
All credit is due to the original authors of the article and the above website. I won't claim that I can verify all the tests and results in the article and website are 100% valid and correct but they do give some scientific understanding for what I've already read on numerous forums. As always, use the information provided as a guide and at your own risk as your results may vary. |
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November 3rd, 2010, 10:57 PM | #114 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.
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great first post, Anson.
welcome |
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November 3rd, 2010, 11:04 PM | #115 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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November 4th, 2010, 10:49 AM | #116 | ||
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Quote:
Again I will not claim that the results and findings of the paper are 100% valid and verified. Read it for what it's worth and make your own decision. Basically moisture can enter engine oil in five different ways:
This also brings up another good reminder to top off the other important fluids in your motorcycle when you store it; brake fluids and coolant. Brake fluid is also hygroscopic, unless you use DOT 5 which is silicone based and is not recommended for our bikes. If your brake fluids are already a couple of years old, it may be a good time to bleed them out and change them as the moisture collected inside those lines can corrode your brake system or create swells that may burst and leak. You don't want faulty brakes during that long awaited first ride of the season. If you are topping off your brake fluids, I know that the owner's manual says not to mix but you will be ok just to top it off with any DOT 4 brake fluid. Of course, topping it off means only up to the full line. Do not use DOT 5 as it will not mix with the existing brake fluid in our system. Every other owner's manual I've ever read has no mention of requiring to change the whole brake fluid if you just need to top it off. I'm not sure why the Kawasaki manual states this. On all the other forums I've read, people are ok with just topping it off as long as you don't mix in DOT 5 which is not compatible with any other brake fluid. If you are opening that front brake fluid cap for the first time, be careful as the screws were torqued by machines at the shop/factory. They are difficult to unscrew and you have to apply a lot of downward pressure on the screw to avoid stripping them as they are not made of the highest quality and the Phillips design is easy to strip. Once I unscrewed mine out, I changed them to a hex pattern. The screws are metric machine screws countersunk 4mm x 12mm. |
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November 20th, 2010, 09:16 AM | #117 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ed
Location: Toronto
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 2
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i'm dumb
So I have been getting my bike ready for winter storage. Changed oil/filter, added stabil, filled tank and let the bike get up to temp, removed battery, and then for some reason I thought I had read to set the petcock to prime.
I wasn't sure and am second guessing myself - it looks like leaving it set to prime is a bad idea, because should my float stop operating correctly I will have fuel all over the garage. So aside from moving the petcock back to the on position - do I have to do anything now that the carbs/float bowls are full of fuel? |
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November 20th, 2010, 10:41 AM | #118 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Wayne
Location: Brookfield, MA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Honda CBR250R Posts: 585
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Quote:
By the way Boom King, that was an excellent post about adding fresh oil in the spring, but I'm still not convinced the oil breaks down or is infused with moisture enough in a few months that a complete oil change is necessary. Maybe I'd be more concerned if I used a cheap oil, but I'm using Rotella T synthetic and I find it hard to believe a premium oil would break down that much in only a few months. Considering that most people only own a particular bike for a few years before moving up or changing rides, it's hard to imagine that fresh premium-grade oil sitting in a motor uncirculated for only a few months would harm your engine so much. It still seems like overkill and extremely wasteful to me. |
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November 20th, 2010, 10:44 AM | #119 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Ed
Location: Toronto
Join Date: Apr 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250 Posts: 2
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so i should just set the petcock back to on and leave it alone?
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November 20th, 2010, 10:52 AM | #120 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Wayne
Location: Brookfield, MA
Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2011 Honda CBR250R Posts: 585
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Quote:
I'll never understand why someone would make a bike without an "off" position on the petcock. I know Kawi wanted to keep the price down on the 250, but how much could a petcock with an "off" position cost? It's one thing that's always bothered me about the bike. If you drain the bowls you have to pinch off the fuel line somehow or they'll fill up again. What a PITA. |
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