March 18th, 2012, 02:04 AM | #82 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
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Anyone know why supersports have inverted forks? Doesn't that expose more of the debris-sensitive area and put more weight up high? Even Buell does it as part of their "mass centralization" trilogy of tech mantra but it seems that normal positioning with the bulk of the weight just above the tire would be more "central" when it comes to leaning.
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March 18th, 2012, 05:07 AM | #84 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: D
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Probably just to sell you more expensive seals.
A friend of mine had a 1980's-something yamaha cruiser with inverted forks and replacing the seals was a common occurrence. After his bad experience with inverted forks, I wouldn't be in a rush to buy another bike that had them.
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March 18th, 2012, 10:02 AM | #85 | |
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I'll self-quote from another thread:
Quote:
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March 19th, 2012, 10:54 AM | #86 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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March 19th, 2012, 02:47 PM | #87 |
ninjette.org dude
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fixed
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March 19th, 2012, 04:41 PM | #88 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
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Well, I forgot to remove the caps first. Any way to take it all apart from below?
Thanks kindly! Quote:
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March 19th, 2012, 10:26 PM | #90 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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I'm glad I read the FAQ from Ninja250.org as well.
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...aps/pistons%3F Their suggestion of a (gear/sink tap/2-jaw/battery terminal/wiper) puller still requires something attached to the forks for it to pull on, like the triple tree, but one of their pics showed something that looks very similar to the SV650 clip-ons I bought but never installed. They require shimming to fit right, so I don't think attaching them would be the best idea, except that I also have Woodcraft clip-ons that I was waiting to install after all this. Now, I just need this $5 gear puller. Someone added their two cents to the FAQ about not bothering with all that and just pushing down with a socket. Well, that's what I already tried with help and not only could I not get it low enough to see the clip, I marred up the cap. $5 is worth it, IMO. Not that it damaged the threads but, obviously, if it's going to keep the fork from turning it will be putting pressure on them. |
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March 19th, 2012, 10:39 PM | #91 |
Dakine...
Name: AJ
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grab a philips screw driver and press down on that plug thing. then with your free hand, pry the clip out with a precision flat head screw driver.
edit: is your bike on a tripple tree stand? you cannot have any pressure on the forks when doing this. that plug thing wont move much, but will move enough so you can remove that clip |
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March 19th, 2012, 11:18 PM | #92 |
learning stages
Name: M
Location: ummmm
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I seen something like this on mines. I gotta check my forks again....=(
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March 20th, 2012, 12:16 AM | #93 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Yes, it is on a head stand, but the stand's suspending pin holder arm is bending and if I tried putting extra weight on it while it's on the triple I'd be asking for more trouble. I tried pressing down on the plug when off the bike while someone held the fork up for me but the fork would move down and the plug would not move far enough to get the clip. I did not realize that you couldn't have pressure on the forks. I'm going to throw on the Woodcraft clip-ons and use one of those puller things tomorrow. I have to go buy the PVC for hammering the stuff back together anyway (I assume these puller things are sold at the same hardware stores that sell PVC pipe). Thanks for all the help/ideas/suggestions! |
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March 20th, 2012, 01:57 AM | #94 | |
Dakine...
Name: AJ
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Quote:
anyways. let us know how it does tomorrow |
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March 20th, 2012, 02:16 AM | #95 | ||
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Anyway, ninja250.org's procedure out-right says to take them off first,... Quote:
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March 20th, 2012, 02:48 AM | #97 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
It occurs to me now that you may not have been saying that they are prone to leaking, but that they aren't actually "leak proof." I never thought they were, but it looks like they do have a lifetime guarantee and that's all I care about if it is something I can do myself. I think I should have ordered them. The price has actually gone down a little since then. |
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March 22nd, 2012, 08:17 PM | #98 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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A couple more questions: Are these a completely different type of fork than the pregen? I ask because the ninja250.org guide says that 5W fork oil is for a completely different kind of forks and that I should be using 10W oil at a minimum. It looks like everyone here is is saying to use 5w (common weight) or 8W (specified but generally unavailable weight), which both contradict the other guide if they aren't a different kind of forks.
Next, when I took it all apart, I found some rubbery substance around the bolts at the bottom of the forks. I cleaned it off thinking that it was bits of the paper towel I was wiping them with but realized afterwards that it was not. I will be monitoring them to see if they leak without it, but what do I use if I do have to reseal it? Is it some kind of liquid gasket? All this guide says to use is service-removable thread locker, which I assume is not a rubbery compound. |
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March 22nd, 2012, 08:24 PM | #99 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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Forks are pretty much exactly the same but the new gen has thicker walled tubes.
For a basic streetbike use 10 to 20w fork oil. not going to make much of a difference either way. |
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March 22nd, 2012, 08:29 PM | #100 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Well, I used 5W, as stated in the OP. The forks are still off the bike, so should I buy and switch to 10W while I still have the chance? Thanks.
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March 22nd, 2012, 09:33 PM | #101 |
R&T Suspension
Name: K Hertell
Location: San Antonio, TEXAS
Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175
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If you just ride it around and don't try to corner all that fast I would not worry too much about it. It will be about the same as stock.
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March 22nd, 2012, 09:54 PM | #102 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Well, I do weigh a lot (~250lbs) but I'm working on 1/2" preload spacers. Will 5W still be OK? |
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March 23rd, 2012, 12:51 AM | #104 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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March 23rd, 2012, 05:46 AM | #105 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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I'm confused: Anyone have any idea why the service manual has a torque spec for the fork caps that are held in by a clip? I can't imagine how you are supposed to apply the torque.
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March 24th, 2012, 05:57 AM | #107 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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March 24th, 2012, 06:47 AM | #108 |
Dakine...
Name: AJ
Location: DFW
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or some kind of liquid teflon tape. honestly, i did not put anything on those threads. so far, no leaks but if they start leaking, well....
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March 24th, 2012, 07:47 AM | #109 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
In the service manual, they say to "install a new Allen bolt gasket" with each fork dis-assembly. I looked and that references the little crush washer on each. It didn't say anything about any kind of liquid gasket but did say to use service-removable thread locker. The ninja250.org fork seal replacement guide directly contradicts this by saying "do not, under any circumstance, put thread locker/loctite on that screw... or any other chemical, for that matter. It's just asking for trouble, and it will make the forks nearly impossible to disassemble in the future." *Sigh* The world is just out to get obsessive-compulsive types. If they start leaking then... SELF-OILING AXLE! |
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March 24th, 2012, 01:39 PM | #111 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Todd
Location: Carmel CA
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Thanks for the write up!
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March 25th, 2012, 04:17 PM | #112 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Providence, RI
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I've just followed the write up to fix my fork oil leak. It took sometime but I managed to remove the forks, drain oil and put them back. When I put things back together I've a problem. After I put the brake caliper back, I realized that the rotor was very far away from 1 side of the brake pad, so even when I applied the brake, that pad did not touch the rotor. What did I do wrong ?
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March 25th, 2012, 05:18 PM | #113 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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March 27th, 2012, 07:02 AM | #115 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Providence, RI
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I've checked. There is no gap down at the axle, the spacer is in place but the brake pads and rotor are still not aligned.
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March 27th, 2012, 08:37 AM | #116 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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It looks like the spacer is supposed to be on the right but the fat side goes against the fork and not the tire. If you get this backwards, the tire will be forced to the left and the brake will not align. The only way I can see it having room to move left is if you left the speedometer pickup off the left side. If you can, check these.
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April 13th, 2012, 09:28 AM | #117 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Providence, RI
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 76
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I figure I need to post update in case anyone interested.
After removing my brake caliper, I learnt that these suckers (see picture, white arrows) were stuck, hence the caliper cannot move from side to side (green arrow) to center the pads. So, long story short, I set out to change fork seals and ended up changing brake fluid, new brake pads, a stainless steel brake line. The forks are looking good, haven't leaked yet ! Took me a week or so to get all the parts. Longest fork seal changing ever !!! |
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April 13th, 2012, 04:20 PM | #118 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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May 19th, 2012, 07:43 PM | #119 |
I hate driving...
Name: S
Location: SW Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2010 Motorcycle(s): 13 Triumph Street Triple R, 09 Ninja 250r (Sold 4/20/12) Posts: A lot.
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Just wanted to say, since no one is really clear what weight oil should be used,that I was looking around for fork oil and the manual says to use kayaba ss-8 or equivalent. If honda is to be trusted ss-8 is a 10w fork oil (I picked up honda's ss-8 oil to change the fork oil). I found that ss-7 is a 5w oil. So assuming this is some sort of Japanese nomenclature 10w is whats in the forks.
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May 20th, 2012, 05:36 AM | #120 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Alex
Location: Providence, RI
Join Date: Jul 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 76
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I found my forks too squishy so I used 15w. Much stiffer now.
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