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Old November 19th, 2015, 08:11 AM   #81
choneofakind
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235 from highway riding and 50 degrees ambient temp?

For one, the fan switch in the left side of your radiator likes to take a poop when it over heats. Silly Kawasaki. What ever the issue is now, when you get it all figured out, check that the fan still turns on at idle when the temp goes up. I had to replace mine this summer. While I was waiting for parts and time to work on it, stop lights were a little nervous.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 08:47 AM   #82
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The fan switch functions, since the fan turns on. However the fan wouldn't be the cause of this. My bet is on a slightly stuck closed thermostat or a completely worn out water pump. Both of those would cause my temp gauge to read lower than the engine actually is and it may have been my problem this whole time. Then engine takes far less time than my friends newer 250 to warm up. At that high temp when I pulled over the radiator was hot to the touch but 230 should have been searing, I was able to put my hand on it for a second or two.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 09:05 AM   #83
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I had a problem once where the cooling passages round the cylinders were clogged with beige gunk. If your coolant reservoir looks muddy colored the barrels might need poking through with some stiff wire and flushing. It wasn't high miles, I think the PO had put the wrong anti freeze in (It also ate its radiator)
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Old November 19th, 2015, 09:38 AM   #84
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Coolant was clean when I got it and I drained it and its clean now. I'm going to pull the thermostat on monday and boil it. If its good then I'll check for flow from the pump.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 09:55 AM   #85
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That's good. Pump is probably fine since you don't have a corrosion issue so don't disturb it until you have checked the stat. It is an annoying quirk of the ninjette that you can't run it without the stat. Because it includes the seal. (Though I have transferred the rubber seal to a large washer as a dummy.
Stats are bizarre, they can behave fine in a boiling pan and still be bad. Only if it fails to open will you know it is bad
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Old November 19th, 2015, 10:03 AM   #86
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When I doubt, replace it, their cheap enough to eliminate another possible cause.

Also have to pulled the radiator, and have it boiled and pressure checked by a professional radiator shop?

And I have a personal question, how are you getting such a precise temperature readings?
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Old November 19th, 2015, 10:04 AM   #87
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If its been the stat this whole time I'm going to be pissed lol. However stat wouldn't explain everything
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Old November 19th, 2015, 10:23 AM   #88
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Quote:
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When I doubt, replace it, their cheap enough to eliminate another possible cause.

Also have to pulled the radiator, and have it boiled and pressure checked by a professional radiator shop?

And I have a personal question, how are you getting such a precise temperature readings?
Well my bikes not exactly stock, and the cluster was hanging on my zipties when I bought it. So it has a trailtech vapor guage setup which gives those precise temps.
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Old November 19th, 2015, 10:32 AM   #89
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Well my bikes not exactly stock, and the cluster was hanging on my zipties when I bought it. So it has a trailtech vapor guage setup which gives those precise temps.
Ahhhh okay, got it, so I assume you installed the temperature sensor in the same place as the OEM was?
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