Bicycles!

[NinjaCowgirl]

I have a question for you recumbent bike gurus - what type of cleats do you use? Or do you? I've seen a few recumbents here in Idaho but it doesn't seem like they're clipped in. Seems like you could end up with a messy cadence - or does that even matter?
I ask cause I'm a recovering roadie with a 1987 Eddy Mercky Corsa Extra, and 1990 Fisher cyclocross (winter training), Kona Fire Mountain MTB. And a Ninja, of course.

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by NinjaCowgirl

I have a question for you recumbent bike gurus - what type of cleats do you use? Or do you? I've seen a few recumbents here in Idaho but it doesn't seem like they're clipped in. Seems like you could end up with a messy cadence - or does that even matter?
I ask cause I'm a recovering roadie with a 1987 Eddy Mercky Corsa Extra, and 1990 Fisher cyclocross (winter training), Kona Fire Mountain MTB. And a Ninja, of course.

Some standard Mtb clipless pedals(yes the ones you clip into are called clipless) will work fine plus when you stop for lunch or whatnot you don't look like a ****ing duck as you walk around like you would with road shoes. SPD's(shimano style but there's other brands that are the same) are the easiest to get into and out of and you can find them for rather cheap anywhere. If you have knee problems and alignment is an issue then maybe a pare of Time or Crankbrothers would suit you better because they have a much larger float before unclipping then SPDs so it's easier on your knee alignment.

I'd say being clipped in is rather important on a recumbent because you can't stand and pedal off a stop light and being able to pull as well as push the cranks should allow you to get into the taller gears soon after a stop and moving.

[Worldtraveller]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

Some standard Mtb clipless pedals(yes the ones you clip into are called clipless) will work fine plus when you stop for lunch or whatnot you don't look like a ****ing duck as you walk around like you would with road shoes. SPD's(shimano style but there's other brands that are the same) are the easiest to get into and out of and you can find them for rather cheap anywhere. If you have knee problems and alignment is an issue then maybe a pare of Time or Crankbrothers would suit you better because they have a much larger float before unclipping then SPDs so it's easier on your knee alignment.

I'd say being clipped in is rather important on a recumbent because you can't stand and pedal off a stop light and being able to pull as well as push the cranks should allow you to get into the taller gears soon after a stop and moving.

Being clipped is also a bit more important (IMO) because leg suck can be a real issue on bents. Also, on a trike, ya never have to unclip unless you are actually getting off the seat.

[Apex]

I stopped using roadie pedals. I only use my crankbrothers 3 on my dedicated bikes, with a set of crankbrothers MALLET's on my commuter. I still use platforms on my cargo bike, mainly because I am only going short distances (20-miles max round trip).

I love the CB's because the cleat is so small and hides in a MTB shoe nicely (no clicks).

[choneofakind]

I don't use roadie pedals any more either. I'm using SPD pedals on both bikes - one pair of shoes. I need to get a legit bike fitting for my roadie though; I'm still having issues with my left knee but IT'S GETTING BETTER!!!

Anyhow, my quest for wheels has lead me to be quite dissatisfied with my prebuilt options. I'm currently exchanging emails with Rob from PSIMET to get a set of custom made ones for me. That... and I'm going to chat with my buddy's dad, who owns a bike shop and has a really good wheel builder on staff. I think I can do a lot better for $500 than the prebuilt options.

[Apex]

Well, after having to carry these all over the place:


I got tired of it. There were several rides I'd do where they required them (or you take off your shoes) when you walked through the store.

MTB cleats solved that problem. Haven't gone back since (also, much more comfortable).

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by rojoracing53

If you have knee problems and alignment is an issue then maybe a pare of Time or Crankbrothers would suit you better because they have a much larger float before unclipping then SPDs so it's easier on your knee alignment.

interesting, what versions of these would be best for strictly roadie use with knee issues

[rojoracing53]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

interesting, what versions of these would be best for strictly roadie use with knee issues

Mtb, road or recumbent are all the same to me so on pedal that works for you will work for any bicycle type. The less float SPDs are by far the most popular and you can adjust the alignment keep from upsetting your knee, it may take a few tries to find the sweet spot. The look and time and egg beater pedals just have a much larger center area of float(no rotational tension) so it kinda dummy proofs the setup process. I'm currently using the look S-track race pedals and they work good and look kinda cool. If I had to make a recommendation of road only I'd say good with the eggbeaters because they have they everywhere and their durability issue when stuck by rocks won't be a problem on the road.

[rojoracing53]

I've never used eggbeater but I see plenty of people that do.
http://m.jensonusa.com/Crank-Brother...FQmSfgodh1kAFw

[sharky nrk]

I currently have the Shimano A520 on my bikes, maybe I need to look into how to setup the float better

[misfitsailor]

Originally Posted by NinjaCowgirl

what type of cleats do you use?

I use a Shimano SPD pedal with a platform on the flip side. I like shoes with the cleats recessed. For recumbents the cleats attach to the rear-most position on the shoe.

As stated previously, it is very important on trikes to use cleats for safety.

[Apex]

The Crankbros Mallet is an eggbeater and platform in one. That is what I use on my fast commuter (sorry, I previously said I used a 5050, that is NOT the case). It gives me the option of using my MTB shoes, a typical shoe, or sandals.

They are great.

I highly recommend them! They are also rebuildable, just like my Eggbeater 3's (with the bearings instead of bushings).

[choneofakind]

Got out for a ride today.


Still working on setting up the fork right. Everything on the bike is new and I'm getting a different feeling from the trail than I'm used to. Maybe it's just because I've been away from it for so long, maybe it's because I actually need to change some air pressures/damping.

My bike rocks. Bike build = worth it.

[CZroe]

Anyone wanna race?

[choneofakind]

Aright bike whores, time for a steer tube cut? I've been working on the bike fit through tons of reading and measurements and adjustments after my knee injury.

Good news: I think I've nailed it. The knee is as strong as ever, the bike is comfy for longer, and the speed is more effortless than before, although that might just be the mileage speaking.

Bad news: I think the steer tube looks silly tall above my stem.

[Apex]

Meh. Sometimes it is nice to have a bit extra tube just in case you need to raise it later for some reason.

I'm a stone throw from ditching my 1.5 if I can't get it dialed in. I'm no longer a roadie, and to dial it it requires a little extra work. I think I need a few things:
1. A seat thicker than a piece of carbon fiber and leather.
2. An adjustable stem (should help with positioning)
3. Maybe move to 25c's. I run my 23's at about 90psi to soak up the horrible roads near me. I'm sure on the bumpy stuff I'm actually faster than if I ran at 110...
4. If I need to go more upright, a suspension seat tube is a must. I know, I know, I'm being a wuss.

[choneofakind]

I run 23mm Gatorskins at about 90F/105R and it seems to be decent for rough rodes without sacrificing speed. But I'm only 130, so that's likely more like 95/110 for you. Whenever I get around to getting a wider/lighter set of wheels, I'll go back to a 25mm tire and run a little lower.

I've been reading a ton and I don't think higher is always the answer. The trick is the seat. Get it far enough back so your kneecap is over the pedal axle (play with a plumb bob for a few minutes on the trainer) and angle the seat so your pedaling efforts keep your hips from rotating too far forward and sliding forwards on the seat. Ideally you want hips that are stationary through the pedal stroke and don't move relative to the seat. That's what I've gathered from reading/youtubing the subject and it's worked for me. It's also taken a lot of stress off my knees because I repositioned my cleats on my shoe as well.

When you get the position/angle of the seat right, there's very little weight on your wrists. This removes the need to bring the bars up for comfort. I actually dropped mine quite a bit. It's more comfortable at the moment than it's ever been, so I'm sticking with it.

[Hossua]

Nice bikes guys. I have an Ironhorse Outlaw. Weighs a ton, but pretty sturdy which works well for my occasional trail abuse.
Was pretty messed up when I got it. Both derailleurs were bent and the rear bracket was bent.
Hooked it up with an ok set from shimano. Fiddled with the spokes a bit to true up the rear wheel.Slapped a bike computer on it and just got over my first hundred miles with it this spring.

[Apex]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I run 23mm Gatorskins at about 90F/105R and it seems to be decent for rough rodes without sacrificing speed. But I'm only 130, so that's likely more like 95/110 for you. Whenever I get around to getting a wider/lighter set of wheels, I'll go back to a 25mm tire and run a little lower.

I've been reading a ton and I don't think higher is always the answer. The trick is the seat. Get it far enough back so your kneecap is over the pedal axle (play with a plumb bob for a few minutes on the trainer) and angle the seat so your pedaling efforts keep your hips from rotating too far forward and sliding forwards on the seat. Ideally you want hips that are stationary through the pedal stroke and don't move relative to the seat. That's what I've gathered from reading/youtubing the subject and it's worked for me. It's also taken a lot of stress off my knees because I repositioned my cleats on my shoe as well.

When you get the position/angle of the seat right, there's very little weight on your wrists. This removes the need to bring the bars up for comfort. I actually dropped mine quite a bit. It's more comfortable at the moment than it's ever been, so I'm sticking with it.

I'm going to double check and verify the saddle isn't too far back. I adjusted the nose down a tad because of things getting a bit numb.

[Apex]

Soooooooo, I took the roadie out once again today. I made sure that I didn't try to sit too far upright on the bike and the ride was much better. Maybe my seat is a bit too close to the stem. I made sure to watch my body position, my knee position, foot rotation, and saddle position. After a little bit, I went on auto-pilot and all was just fine.

Still won't inflate my tires over 90psi.

[Jono]

So this year hasn't been an easy one for mountain bikers in my area. Winter and spring was colder and wetter than usual, and now our summer has been wet so far. One of our local trails was under water about a month ago after the river that they run along flooded after we received like a foot of rain in 3 days or something crazy like that.

Now I'm looking for some slicks for my 29er so that I can road ride after it rains. I've worn out my trail tires using them on the pavement so I need to find a set of tires I can slap on the bike when I want to hit the pavement. Any ideas?? I'm really liking the looks and fun factor of the Schwalbe Big Apples. And I've read that they last a LONG time.

[choneofakind]

Those things are massive and heavy.

Try a basic road tire in as big of width as you can find. Like 700x38 or larger. Just be careful and inflate slowly. Check often to make sure it's not walking off the rim and doesn't blow on you.

But I've read good things about those big apples also.


Our trails have been wet too. Thankfully they all drain wel and I've been able to sneak the occasional trail ride in on trail that's firm enough to ride without feeling guilty

[burningscooter]

I am actually in the market for a road bike for excercise. After reading reviews, I am going to look at the Specialized Allez Elite/Sport or the Giant Defy 3. Will stop by the LBS this weekend to see what the fit and feel is.

[Apex]

I can't speak for the Giant, but the Specialized line isn't very steady at lower speeds. I found I had to work hard to keep the bike upright. My Trek, on the other hand, performs great at lower speeds. Very stable ride.

Fuji did rather well at lower speeds too.


Honestly, reviews aside, any of the big makers put out quality products these days. You can't go wrong with whatever you choose. Just ride A LOT of them. Ride fast, slow, massive inputs, small inputs; anything you can think of.


As for slicks, I have 35c's on my 29-er and they have worked flawlessly. Just generic Bontrager road tires, nothing special. I had one flat, but that was my fault for hitting a bump hard. I'm actually going back to MTB tires for the added resistance. I'm riding that bike for a workout, so the more resistance I can give, the better I'll be.

[burningscooter]

@Apex I forgot to mention the Trek 1.5 as well. Really anything will do, as long as its light, has longevity, a good warranty and has a good package to start. I dont want to deal with upgrading a whole lot. I just want to ride.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by burningscooter

@Apex I forgot to mention the Trek 1.5 as well. Really anything will do, as long as its light, has longevity, a good warranty and has a good package to start. I dont want to deal with upgrading a whole lot. I just want to ride.

Then I'd look a little higher spec than the defy 3. If you're looking for a package you can use forever and not break the bank on (within reason) look for 105 components, maybe Tiagra at the very least. You'll get a better/stiffer BB, thicker diameter bars, better wheels, and a better overal package. Im very very happy with my defy 1.

I've worked a lot wth the Allez line as well, very impressed with them. They're definitely the most racy of the bikes you've mentioned, but if you're looking for a sportive geometry instead of an endurance geometry, that's the best bet. They're definitely the stiffer and more snappy bike of the bunch you've listed.

If you can budget the defy 1 but want a race geometry option to compete with the Allez, check out the giant TCR SLR. It's just as light as the Allez (lighter than the defy) but has the same spec and same price as the defy 1. Just another option.

[burningscooter]

@choneofakind thanks for the advice. So, the bikes I will be trying then are the Defy 1, TCR SLR, Trek 1.5 and the Allez. Looks like Ill have to hit up a couple LBS in the area. That being said, at the moment, I only plan on doing about 45 miles a week until I can ride efficiently.

[choneofakind]

Can't go wrong with any of those! All solid frames and good manufacturers. Just down to which one suits you best out of the box.

[Apex]

Good luck finding one!

My friend has a Roubaix. It is twitchy, but he says it performs great a higher speeds, very responsive. Specialized just doesn't suit my style of riding.

Now the Specialized Langster worked well for me when I had it. I sold that a while back. The single speed was nice, I just had a ton of bikes and not enough room. I miss it. It was light, smooth, and reliable. Still, it was a second roadie, so I just kept the Trek.

[choneofakind]

I LOVE THE ROUBAIX!!!

I've test ridden/worked on a bunch. (we stock and sell tons of specialized). Love them. Great to look at, great to ride, lots of levels of spec to choose from. Sorry for adding bikes to your list

I just like bicycles. I want one of each bike ever.

[Apex]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

I just like bicycles. I want one of each bike ever.

THIS!!!

[AmyF]

I love riding - currently have a Giant Escape 2 hybrid bike. I typically ride appx 30-40 miles a week, though working on increasing that. Last summer I was up to nearly 100 miles a week. Love the long distance rides.

Here's a general picture of the model I ride - except mine is a purple color - will have to take a picture of it at some point - probably next to the Ninja lol.

[rojoracing53]

Still racing the SS Mtb every chance I get(2 times a week most the time) and finally starting to take some overall pro class wins. Done I'll be towing the ninja behind the Mtb because its motor well pull harder

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by AmyF

I love riding - currently have a Giant Escape 2 hybrid bike. I typically ride appx 30-40 miles a week, though working on increasing that. Last summer I was up to nearly 100 miles a week. Love the long distance rides.

Here's a general picture of the model I ride - except mine is a purple color - will have to take a picture of it at some point - probably next to the Ninja lol.

Where'd you buy? I'm thinking that Century Cycles is the only Giant dealership in the area? That's where I've bought bothe my giants. But now I work at Eddy's so I'm more familiar with Specialized and Trek than before.

[Ninjinsky]

Here is my 93 Kona lavadome. One of my favorites. It still has the original Joe Murray A:\DRIVE and B:\DRIVE tires They work well but are incredibly noisy
I also still have the original Manitou forks but had to swap for these TXS's because the elastomers are shot. and replacements are hens teeth

[choneofakind]

Elastomers? In forks? What?

[Ninjinsky]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Elastomers? In forks? What?

yeah Manitou forks give an excellent ride They use elastomers to achieve this but they turn to gloop after 10 years. the replacements are f expensive
this is what a set look like

http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/e...fresh-kit.html

and here is a link to a pic of a dismantled pair in all their technological glory
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/dow...e.php?id=36751

[choneofakind]

So instead of springs or air compartments, it uses blobs of rubbery plastic stuff? weird.

[burningscooter]

So after looking around, what really piqued my interest is the Specialized Tricross. That type of bike is actually more in my wheelhouse. Any of you guys have experience with this type of bike and if possible, can recommend similar models?

Thanks

[Apex]

I'd replace my roadie for a CX bike any day!

If you go with the TriCX, get at least the sport. That way if you ever do try CX or take it offroad, you won't eat up your rims with the cantilever brakes.

I personally love mechanical disc brakes, and the BB7's are great brakes.

Give it a ride and go for it!

Plus, it comes with 32c's, which are comfy tires. You should be able to easily toss 28's on there, maybe even 25's if you want more speed.

Very versatile.


Other models:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/cyclocross/
http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/pr...%3ACyclocross#
http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-road-cyclocross
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/...oad/?level=all


This may help:
http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/...clocross-bikes