July 10th, 2012, 06:17 PM | #121 | |
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July 10th, 2012, 06:24 PM | #122 |
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July 10th, 2012, 08:48 PM | #123 |
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It's not a drain bolt. It keeps the innards secured to the bottom.
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July 10th, 2012, 11:57 PM | #125 |
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Crap...I wish I would've just loosened the bottom bolt, then drained it from the top end, lol.
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July 22nd, 2012, 08:46 PM | #126 |
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dumb question: just purchased an 09 ex250 over the weekend and I'm in the process of changing my fork seals via the flow chart above (thanks for posting this btw, very helpful) However, my forks don't have un-screwable caps, so I'm not sure how get the new oil in the forks... I know, I need to get a clymer manual... Sorry for the dumb question and thanks in advance for the help!
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July 23rd, 2012, 12:18 AM | #127 | |
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we dont have unscrewable caps either. you push the cap down with a screwdriver or something and then take a precision flat-head screwdriver or small knife and take out the retainer clip. then the cap will pop off no problem. |
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July 23rd, 2012, 06:17 AM | #128 |
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Yep, but remember that they have to be completely unloaded/dangling with no weight on them, so you can't just push down on a loose fork. I find that it's easier to do on the bike if you have a way to get the front wheel off the ground (kinda required if you are removing the forks anyway ). I used a triple-tree bike stand and then used a $10 puller tool from Lowe's (plumbing section). The puller tool has arms that you can hook to the triple tree clamp and a threaded center rod that pushes down when you turn it, which holds the cap down so you can take as long as you want to remove the clips. Pick one up when you get the length of PVC needed to hammer the new seals in (same section).
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July 23rd, 2012, 06:24 AM | #129 |
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Interesting, I've never owned a bike with caps like this... thanks!
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November 2nd, 2012, 08:45 PM | #131 |
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I own a 2009 ninja 250r with only 2k miles on it and the right fork is leaking. I plan on replacing the seal myself as well.
I ordered at set of fork seals, they should arrive by next week. Is there anything else I need? I already have everything from the list that was mentioned in the original post. Is there anything else I need? Does everything I take out of the forks will go back nicely? Is there anything that needed to be replaced in the process or may get damaged from the disassemble? I read on and a member mention circlip and snap ring. I do need a Snap Ring Pliers? |
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November 2nd, 2012, 09:49 PM | #132 | |
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I wonder why it's ALWAYS the right fork. Hmm. |
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November 2nd, 2012, 10:14 PM | #133 |
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I ordered Leak Proof Seals Pro-Moly Fork Seals/Wiper Seals 42440, I think they are included.
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November 3rd, 2012, 05:21 AM | #134 | |
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You'll also need some fine grit sandpaper (400 or higher) and steel wool for removing any rust. If there are any pits or scores, you need JB-weld (4 min kind) to fill them and sandpaper to smooth it. The pregen needs 1.25" internal circlips. I don't know if the newgen needs the same or not, or if so, what size. And yes, you need the circlip pliers. If its set up the same as the pregen, you will need a small wheel puller to push the cap down while you fish out the old retaining ring. This is done while the tubes are still in the forks. The pregen needs a long allen wrench to remove the retaining bolt at the bottom of the fork. I'm not sure if the newgen has that or not. If so, it was a pain finding something long enough to reach. I think I ended up using the long part of a regular allen wrench with a pair of vice grips to turn it. Also, you don't want to use thread locker on that bolt or you'll never get it out again. EDIT: One more thing was a 12cc syringe and a 12 Gauge needle. I used that to keep the oil height consistent. I poured in a little more than the approximate amount and then used the syringe (hung over the edge of the tube) and then used the syringe to remove the excess. Whatever method you use, I think its more important to keep them even than at a particular level.
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November 3rd, 2012, 10:08 AM | #135 | |
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November 3rd, 2012, 12:16 PM | #136 | |
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November 3rd, 2012, 12:41 PM | #137 | |
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I plan on picking one up this winter since I ditched my center stand and it's annoying to not have a way to get the front off the ground in a non-ghetto-rigged manner. A headstand and swingarm stand from TRexx is about $170 for the pair, and those are decent (not the best, not the worst) stands that will do fine. |
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November 3rd, 2012, 05:41 PM | #138 |
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I have a rear stand. I plan on using my car jack to lift the front end up like in the original post. Do you know where is the safe lifting point under the engine?
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November 3rd, 2012, 05:59 PM | #139 |
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You can put a board under the engine under the oil filter and use a floor jack. If the newgen is like the pregen enough, there is a cross member that connects through the bottom of the radiator and to the front engine mount. You might be able to put a jack stand under that. However, you would still need to find some way to keep it stable.
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November 3rd, 2012, 09:08 PM | #140 |
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That little metal piece that attaches the radiator?? no don't put weight on that.
take a smalle piece of wood, and drill a 1" diameter hole into it with a drill. Put that under the engine, with the oil filter bolt in the hole, and put the jack under the wood. Carefully lift it. Slowly. Be gentle with everything you do, as this 3-legged stance is not the most stable work platform ever. Only lift the front after the back is stable on a stand, or your bike will fall over. That's why it's always best to own at least a swingarm stand, or a swingarm and head stand. |
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November 4th, 2012, 05:03 AM | #141 | |
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Some people (I think the OP is one of them if I recall) support the bike from overhead as well. One time I used a large stepladder over the bike with ratcheting straps holding the triple tree. It wouldn't hurt to do that too just as an added safety measure. BTW, unless you have a specific reason to do so, don't remove the triple tree. Its not necessary. The reason I say that is because there are DIY's out there that say to do that and its a lot of extra work for nothing. EDIT: I'm talking about the pregen regarding the metal brace. I'm not sure if the newgen even has one or not. EDIT2: I checked the diagrams over at ron ayers and I couldn't find that cross piece on the newgen diagrams. Anyhow, you could still put a piece of angle iron across the lower front engine mounts and use that.
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November 4th, 2012, 07:58 AM | #142 |
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Yeah, the bike falling over is one of my biggest fear. I'm going to make sure it well supported before I do anything.
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November 6th, 2012, 09:52 AM | #143 |
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Where is a good place to buy the fork seals? I placed an order with powersportsSuperstore.com and it took forever to ship. I called in and canceled it. Don't place your order there!
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November 6th, 2012, 04:05 PM | #144 |
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I got mine from a guy on ebay who sells them. They were made by somebody like "All Balls" or something like that. The were real reasonable. I think I paid something like $20 with free shipping and included the dust covers.
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November 6th, 2012, 05:05 PM | #145 |
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couldn't find that guy on ebay so I ordered Leak Proof Seals Pro-Moly Fork Seals/Wiper Seals powersportsplus.com.
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November 6th, 2012, 06:41 PM | #146 |
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You didn't like this guy?
BIKEMASTER FORK OIL SEAL KAWASAKI NINJA 250 08-11 $10.99 + free shipping The ones I got were rock solid.
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November 7th, 2012, 09:10 AM | #147 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 10:40 AM | #148 | |
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The point being that ebay is a good source for fork seals right now. When I got mine, it came with dust seals. But most of the time you don't need to buy the dust seals. Not unless your dust covers are actually cracked or damaged in some way. Here's another one from ebay for $25 that includes the dust covers and free shipping. All Balls is the one I got and it was pretty good. Unfortunately, its probably too late for the OP.
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November 7th, 2012, 10:51 AM | #149 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 12:37 PM | #150 | |
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Anyhow, when you put them back on, you need to use steel wool to get the surface rust off, then fine 400 grit sandpaper for the tougher rust, and JB-weld for the pits and gouges (followed by more sanding).
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November 7th, 2012, 01:00 PM | #151 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 03:10 PM | #152 | |
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On the side note: What is this "Inside the lower cylinder is a pin with a small spring and a silver tapered cap. These will fall out once you pull the fork apart" that the OP mentioned? I didn't see it in any of his pictures. Is it easy to put back. I don't want to lose it when I pull the fork out. |
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November 7th, 2012, 03:43 PM | #153 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 06:14 PM | #154 |
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I'm on a pinch, no budget for a triple stand. I don't know what the puller tool looks like. Can you google a picture of it please. The dealer wanted $280 to get the fork seals replaced, including oil, labor and parts. I'm trying to get this done at around $50.
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November 7th, 2012, 06:48 PM | #155 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 07:12 PM | #156 | |
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November 7th, 2012, 07:46 PM | #157 | |
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You might call some of your local tool rental places to see if they will rent a motorcycle head stand. That would be the best, but if not, then there are other ways explained in other posts that will get the job done too. I personally like my jack stand method as illustrated below. If the radiator supports aren't as strong as the pregen, you can still take most of the weight off with a jack under the engine. The jack stands on both sides keep it stable.
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November 8th, 2012, 12:52 PM | #158 | |
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Do you know the correct threading of the rear spools. I went to Lowes and bought the M10-1.50 matric bolt. It was too big so I went back and bought the M8-1.25 bolt and it was too small. I wonder what the OP used in his spools. |
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November 8th, 2012, 01:29 PM | #159 | |
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November 8th, 2012, 07:41 PM | #160 | |
ninjette.org member
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By the way, is it necessary to remove the side fairings to get the folks out? It looks like I can loosen up the clamps without removing fairing. I am missing something? |
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