April 5th, 2013, 12:17 PM | #121 | |
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I am not touching the balance shaft. I just think it does more good than harm.
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April 5th, 2013, 01:05 PM | #122 |
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Yes. 88-92 have 180 degree duration cams. I looked into this extensively because I was wondering about hot cams.
The part number changes in 1993, but nothing else changes at all, so I'd assume that cams from the 88-92 bikes would act as hot cams in any pregen from 93-2007 |
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April 5th, 2013, 01:11 PM | #123 | |
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April 5th, 2013, 01:17 PM | #124 | |
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All-in-all it's probably just my OCD kicking in and I will be fine. I hope to have the top end on tonight, but degreeing the cams will take some time. From there, I will bolt on all the peripherals to the motor. |
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April 5th, 2013, 01:21 PM | #125 |
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ahh....what about transmission fluid? it's an oil, but it's like water and could carry anything out with it pretty easily?
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April 5th, 2013, 01:32 PM | #126 |
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The break clean will evaporate . Trans fluid is good to flush it with also.
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April 6th, 2013, 10:31 AM | #127 |
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I did a three part flush that I feel good about. Wd-40 then tranny fluid then sae 30 weight oil. Everything came out clean so I doubt anything wad in there but my ocd made me do it.
Even after tossing this around for awhile I realized that nothing will get unfiltered oil and all running parts were clean when I assembled. Therefore I'm crazy but all this makes me feel better as I just didn't want my bearings to look like tubarney bearings. |
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April 6th, 2013, 01:58 PM | #128 |
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I got the cylinder and pistons on today along with a bunch of other parts.
An fyi to all: 265 cc pistons and the bore they require make putting the cylinder on 300% easier. The stock bore and wiseco pistons sucked. This whole project started because I scored the cylinder. |
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April 6th, 2013, 01:59 PM | #129 |
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I hope to get the head on tonight.
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April 6th, 2013, 01:59 PM | #130 |
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They probably don't come out of the factory that clean !
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April 8th, 2013, 07:18 AM | #131 |
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If you install new pistons. Take your block down and get a fresh cross-hatch pattern honed in. Its really really cheap. Cost me $30. Only took off 0.0005 inch of clearance.
If you want to match weight your pistons. Which you should. Here's where to remove the weight. There is 0.01 grams difference between my pistons with the pins and rings installed. Your crank is really shinny mgentz, though I am a bit disappointed in Falicon's efforts at lightening it. For what you payed they should have done more. I have been told I can basically get it down to the one in the photo I posted earlier. |
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April 8th, 2013, 07:39 AM | #132 |
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Hows the assembling going Mike? Are you using car oil for your break in? I bought some Brad Penn but I'm a bit nervous about using it. I think I might just go with some cheap old motorcycle mineral oil and mix it with the assembly paste.
Its probably a bit late now, but you should be able to get some parts cleaner from your local hardware. It comes in a little concentrated bottle. Its parts wash and degreaser. Should make about 80-100 litres. |
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April 8th, 2013, 08:07 AM | #133 |
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here's where to remove the weight on the rods. You will need the new rod bolts in because they can weight as much a 0.1 grams different.
Both the small end and big end need weighing. I suggest you take it down to someone who balances to do. It won't cost much. Maybe $50. If their your mate they will do it for free. I am measuring the weight of the bearings to make sure everything is as even as possible |
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April 8th, 2013, 08:09 AM | #134 | |
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I originally asked falicon about how light they could get it and showed them your pic. They said they would not do that and wondered about how that thing actually balanced. In the end, I got a great discount (I did not pay list) for my super crank and I am very happy. My concern for where you lightened the pistons is the amount of load the pin bore sees, but I reckon you'll be ok. |
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April 8th, 2013, 08:13 AM | #135 | |
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I will do the cams and accessories this week. I need to get a degree wheel first. I have pics that I will post tonight. |
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April 8th, 2013, 08:16 AM | #136 | |
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Its looking good! Now you need to start assembling! I hope to be done this week or next. |
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April 8th, 2013, 08:36 AM | #137 | |
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I was worried about the fact that he removed the weight from the piston there. It should be on the inside chamfer of the pin bore, not the outside. He couldn't get the belt sander in there but, which is what they all use. I don't think it matters, I will ask D&F for a second opinion tomo. It only less than half a gram. My pistons weigh 138.52 grams. You are a fair bit further along than I am. I haven't even started assembling yet. Waiting for bearings which I get tomo so I can start then, also want to get the rods double checked. Is there any way to prime the oil pump on this thing? |
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April 8th, 2013, 09:08 AM | #138 | |
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April 8th, 2013, 01:11 PM | #139 |
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I am going to turn the motor over with a drill when ready. I am also loading the oil in through the head to get oil up in the cam boxes. This will be part of my final flush and clearance check. If nothing hits than I am ok.
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April 8th, 2013, 01:12 PM | #140 |
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On a side note, with the 265 cc cylinder I had to grind the new stock gasket so that it did not overhang. I also replaced the cam chain.
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April 8th, 2013, 02:23 PM | #141 |
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on your cylinder head gaskets, you're putting them on dry, correct? ie. not spraying any type of sealant or anything like on that on them? They should seal fine due to the gasket "squishing" as the bolts are tightened, right?
Thanks, Tony
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April 8th, 2013, 02:36 PM | #142 |
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You can use the starter to prime the engine. The just don't run the engine until you have pressure.
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April 8th, 2013, 03:37 PM | #143 |
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April 8th, 2013, 04:45 PM | #144 |
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updates!!!!
so these pics are from when I was putting the cases together. |
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April 8th, 2013, 04:46 PM | #145 |
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these are pics from putting the bottom end in the frame
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April 8th, 2013, 04:48 PM | #146 |
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these are pics of the motor and cylinder
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April 8th, 2013, 04:51 PM | #147 |
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And these are pics of my custom exhaust flange versus the one that came with the LV system! these things are sexy and if you cannot tell from the pics, they seamlessly flow from the flange to the pipe. The stock ones have a step.
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April 8th, 2013, 05:49 PM | #148 |
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Crank weights 4.8825 kg's. About 10.7 pound.
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April 8th, 2013, 08:13 PM | #149 |
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Nice.
I spent about an hour in the garage fabricating exhaust gaskets. Only to learn that the machinist and I made the flanges so well that they are a slip fit. Also lv recommends no gaskets with their exhaust. Works for me...weight savings everywhere! |
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April 9th, 2013, 12:55 AM | #150 | |
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The exhaust should blend up well. That is a quality fab job. I would go back to him. The 2 bros mounts exactly the same. I never received gaskets with my 2 bros. With priming the oil system. I got told to remove the spark plugs, put a bit of oil through the hole to make sure the rings aren't dry, then crank it over for a bit with the starter to get pressure. |
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April 9th, 2013, 03:21 AM | #151 |
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You can micro-polish your own journals to remove surface rust. All you need is some scotch-brite. I tried to get my balance shaft micro-polished but the grinder could not mount it on the lathe. He told me to do this.
Scotch-brite can also be used to removed surface rust on just about anything. My flywheel especially had a lot of surface rust which has since been removed with no weight change in the flywheel. Below is the difference between a scotch-brite micro-polish journal and one that has been left untouched. It comes up smooth and shinny. If you do it lightly (30 sec) you won't change the size at all. I have a mitutoyo micrometer that measures to 0.001mm and it didn't measure a change in size. |
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April 9th, 2013, 03:32 AM | #152 |
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Here it is finished. It is surprising how well it works.
Some-how it only removes the crap you want without changing the size of the journal. Obviously it changes it on a micro-scopic level, but that really doesn't matter because there are micro-scopic peaks and valleys on the surface of any metal anyway. |
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April 9th, 2013, 06:54 AM | #153 |
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Wow, what a beautiful motor, thanks for keeping us updated with your motor build.
Tony
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1997 Yamaha Seca II - mostly stock, Racetech upgraded forks, FZ6R rear shock, Oxford Heated Grips, Barkbusters Blizzard Handguards, a Scottoiler vSystem chain oiler. My Mileage Tracker Page. |
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April 9th, 2013, 07:05 AM | #154 |
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Wow, this is a sweet build. I'm going to have to follow this one.
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April 9th, 2013, 10:11 AM | #155 | |
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My machine shop is Universal Tool in Pewaukee, WI. James there does AWESOME WORK! The flanges slip fit so well that I have ZERO concerns for leakage but the ports will sure flow well. Avoiding all the steps in the exhaust will be key. @Racer x you should look into this for the nitrous. |
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April 9th, 2013, 12:02 PM | #156 |
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The next build will be turbo and nitrous . I will be getting them for the turbo header. Thnks
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April 9th, 2013, 01:07 PM | #157 |
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Got the exhaust on last night. I hope to get the cams in and check the clearances tonight to see what shims I might need to order.
after that, I am going to put in the carbs and everything else in the back of the bike to fill in the holes and avoid dirt intrusion. I have guessed on the jetting and will do my break in with 108 mains, 45 pilot and the air screw at 2 turns with the FP needle. If anything, I figure that this is rich....but I will need to break her in and then dyno it before I know. |
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April 9th, 2013, 04:13 PM | #158 |
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Are you doing anything with the timing? 108 Keihn will be lean. Or you will be making 29 hp
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April 9th, 2013, 04:27 PM | #159 | |
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I was running 95 mains before and they were about perfect. I think people fall into over jetting the 250. What do you suggest I start with? I talked to marc at fp and he kind of helped but since he has no experience in this area he said start here and tune from there. |
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April 9th, 2013, 05:03 PM | #160 |
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Did you mean cam or ignition timing?
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