January 9th, 2014, 09:23 AM | #121 |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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updated URL for DIY. http://www.modmy250.com/250RHID/250RHIDretrofit.htm
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May 21st, 2014, 07:22 PM | #122 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
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How does the 3M CF vinyl hold up to the heat?
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June 6th, 2014, 02:10 PM | #123 |
CPT Falcon
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Location: Newnan, GA
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@CThunder-blue's extensive off-site write-up is gone.
Anyway, I just unboxed two HID Xenon projector kits from eBay (green halos, yellow halos) and things are looking a little... weird. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuAx...ature=youtu.be
Link to original page on YouTube. Last futzed with by CZroe; June 7th, 2014 at 05:47 AM. |
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June 6th, 2014, 02:24 PM | #124 | |
ModMy250.com
Name: Tri
Location: St, Louis
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250R, 2005 R6 Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
Not sure how long it will be there though.
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June 6th, 2014, 07:43 PM | #125 |
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CZroe, chill. You have the bixenons. See the extra red wires going into the projector in your video? Those are what power the solenoids. Also, I can see the spring and stuff inside the projector when you point the camera down the lens.
Take it for what it is; cheap bixenon projectors with terrible engrish instructions. |
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June 7th, 2014, 04:45 AM | #126 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Thanks, but I'm still confused.
The green kit has no wire to connect to the "Bi-Xenon control light" connection from the control box. It has four connectors, two of which go to the HID bulb, two which connect to the inverter/igniter (assume they are both for CCFL). I don't think any of those could control the solenoid. The yellow kit has the extra wire to connect to the "Bi-Xenon control light" connection from the control box, but it also supposedly has demon/devil/evil eyes, which I assume is powered on when I flip on my high beams. I guess it also activates the solenoids when I do that, but it's still only on the yellow kit. There's still the whole problem where each kit is missing a wire harness and the green kit has no CCFL inverters/igniters. I sent the seller an email last night. I'm not in a hurry because I have enough to get one kit working (all I need for now) but I do need them to make it right. Last futzed with by CZroe; June 9th, 2014 at 04:58 PM. |
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June 7th, 2014, 05:46 AM | #127 |
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You might just have to do your own wiring for a bunch of it. You can pretty easily splice the high beam to the solenoid control. That's not hard. Powe both lights off the stock low beam, and both the solenoids off the high beam.
As far as the halo/demon eye thing... Whatever man, that's not really my cup of tea. I've no experience with that and I like it better without. I installed an LED ring around my headlight and still have not wired it in. |
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June 7th, 2014, 06:00 AM | #128 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Quote:
Because the other kit doesn't even have the wire at all I think I have to break the warranty seal to wire up the solenoid. It's very strange that it would even have a solenoid with no way to power it. I picked yellow angel eyes so that I can make the blue bike look more like the Blue Falcon from F-Zero but even that was because I was forced to pick a color. I originally planned black mesh in the fairing vents with yellow skateboard tires sitting in there like frame sliders for the same visual effect. Last futzed with by CZroe; June 7th, 2014 at 04:21 PM. |
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June 7th, 2014, 02:42 PM | #129 |
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Huh. I would have just gotten projectors without all the farkely LED's honestly...
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June 7th, 2014, 04:12 PM | #130 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
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That's exactly what I would have done if this weren't a salvage job on a ruined headlight with time/effort constraints. I had to buy a kit to avoid trial and error and the cheapest kits I found specifically for the 250 have CCFL angel eyes. Because I had to do the retrofit to salvage the headlight anyway, yellow rings there are actually easier than my idea of using black mesh + yellow skateboard tires in the fairing vents. *shrug* They point forward more like the Blue Falcon's intakes too, so I felt like everything was pointing toward doing that. I, too, think they look too gaudy for a simple "style" upgrade.
This conversation reminds me of this exchange on Kawiforums a few short weeks after I got my bike: http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-250r...ml#post1356274 I actually agreed but couldn't resist the opportunity to post another "ORLY?!" owl. |
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June 10th, 2014, 07:47 AM | #131 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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You were right, Chris. The missing wire from the green kit was from the demon eye and the remaining two were for the angel eye and the solenoid. I thought I did a test fit and determined that the remaining two could only connect to the igniter, but I was wrong.
This also explains my missing inverters. The yellow kit had two because the extra demon eyes need another. The auction listing packing list says "2x CCFL Angel Eye with inverter," which can be interpreted as either one or two inverters (in context one would assume/expect two). Because I didn't ask for or pay for the demon eyes, they probably expect me to leave them disconnected and use the inverter on the other kit's angel eyes. I noticed something new to complain about though: the screw hole for securing a tiny bracket holding the bulb is too close to the threads used for actually mounting the projector so you can see a hollow shaft under the threads! The other projectors aren't like that. Of course, I am still missing two wiring harnesses. One would assume that they'd make ONE harness with ONE fuse and ONE relay with ONE connection to the battery, but the description says otherwise and the harness definitely only connects to one projector/ballast. Last futzed with by CZroe; June 10th, 2014 at 10:21 AM. |
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June 11th, 2014, 06:22 AM | #132 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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I made that post yesterday with the specific intention to point out something else I noticed during the test fit and then completely forgot to mention it.
The projectors are clearly labeled as to which side is the "top" and that correctly orients the CCFL ring gap at the bottom, but the plate that blocks the hi-beam is on the BOTTOM. This can't be right. It's not like a camera lens making an upside-down image on the other side of the lens because the spring and solenoid aren't flipped when I look through the lens. It looks like I'm going to have to mount them upside-down with the CCFL gap at the top. |
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June 11th, 2014, 07:52 AM | #133 |
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The gate goes on the bottom. The curve of the reflector inverts the image. So the gate on bottom creates a shadow on top.
Physics. |
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June 11th, 2014, 09:27 AM | #134 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Quote:
That was actually my first thought so I looked for a diagram or discussion about it and could find nothing on Google after wasting lots of time. I'm guessing the spring appeared on the side it was physically on because I was observing from too close for the camera lens flip/reverse effect. |
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June 11th, 2014, 05:32 PM | #135 |
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It's not the lens that flips it. It's the reflector. You can look into that projector all day and it's never going to look like the gate is on top :P
That gate actually is on bottom. |
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June 12th, 2014, 05:26 AM | #136 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Any idea what the connectors at 3m40s (direct link) in the video are called? I don't want to splice because I may be in a dispute with the seller over the missing wire harnesses and broken warranty seal. They look like the blinkers connectors from the F-gen wire harness which, IIRC, were a weird size that was not easily available at auto parts stores and such. This is the closest I can find online and it doesn't look right (too big):
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=930107_0_0_ |
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June 12th, 2014, 06:11 AM | #137 |
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No idea on the connectors.
It looks like you got shipped some parts that had previously been returned by other sellers. Hence the bad packaging and hand prints and broken seal. Bad seller. IMHO, you should return everything and try again with a plain projector without the fancy extras. Use a different seller. |
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June 13th, 2014, 02:12 PM | #138 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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I need an "ignition on" power source (like dash lights) that isn't only "post engine start" (like headlights) so that I can have fewer toggle switches for HID/angel/demon and only power my 12v socket while the key is turned.
Somehow, I don't think it would be smart to tap the dash lights for two dual CCFL inverters with four CCFLs (2angel+2demon) and a 12v socket. Is there a better alternative that doesn't involve using a relay? If not, what specs should I look for in a relay? I don't want an illegal headlight kill switch but I do want the ability to temporarily power the CCFLs without the HIDs when the engine is off. If the HIDs behave like the headlights while the CCFLs behave like the dash lights, the HIDs should shut off when I move the key to off and back on but the dash, CCFLs, and 12v socket would all still have power. Last futzed with by CZroe; June 13th, 2014 at 08:30 PM. |
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June 15th, 2014, 08:01 AM | #139 |
EX500 full of EX250 parts
Name: Bill
Location: Grand Rapids-ish, MI
Join Date: Jul 2012 Motorcycle(s): '18 Ninja 400 • '09 Ninja 500R (selling) • '98 VFR800 (project) • '85 Vulcan VN700 (sold) Posts: A lot.
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The brown wire is basically the source of all switched power on the bike. It goes into the junction box and feeds all the circuits that aren't always hot (I'm assuming a bit based on the PreGen/500, as the wiring diagram doesn't show where a few of the fuses are sourced from). The switched brown wire in the dash is fed off the brown/black wire from the Ignition fuse, which in turn should be fed by the main switched brown wire going into the j-box.
You could use the brown wire going into the junction box to trigger a relay, and feed that into the j-box in place of the original brown wire (to remove losses for any switched circuits) as well as running it to your accessories. The 500/PreGen j-box also has an unused Acc fuse and an output from the Headlight fuse that bypasses the turn-on-delay relay - I'm not sure how the NewGen compares. The Main fuse is only 30A and the individual circuits are only 10A, so any standard automotive relay (usually 40A) should be more than enough for anything on the bike. Depending on exactly where you're going to mount it, it's probably a good idea to get something waterproof. http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html
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June 15th, 2014, 08:09 AM | #140 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
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Quote:
I wouldn't go through the trouble just for HID farkles except that I also plan to install a stealth stereo in the near future and it would really come in handy then. Don't worry: I'm not the type to go around town blasting obnoxious music (I listen with helmet speakers). It's so that I can momentarily blast Captain Falcon quotes ("Show me your moves!") and F-Zero tunes for anyone who recognizes the Blue Falcon theme at a stop light. |
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May 28th, 2018, 05:59 PM | #141 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Simon
Location: Adelaide
Join Date: May 2018 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: 4
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Not to ressurect an old post, but I was wondering if anyone who had a copy of the original DIY would be able to post a link? I'm keen to do this mod on my bike but all the links are dead (which I suppose is understandable!
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May 28th, 2018, 06:23 PM | #142 | |
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Quote:
And how-to guide: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...aki-ninja-250r |
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May 28th, 2018, 07:18 PM | #143 | |
ninjette.org newbie
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Quote:
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May 29th, 2018, 03:07 PM | #144 |
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Not sure there's more detailed one for Ninja 250R. Basis of most effective HID retrofits is to re-use original reflector as bridge that holds HID lamps to outer lamp-housing. This is preferable to HID lamps that just sit in original bulb-socket, resulting in large cantilever moment and lots of waggling and waving lights, which eventually breaks bulb-socket.
Simplest to separate HID light and line up its reflector with original reflector and draw an outline with Sharpie. Cut that with Dremel inside line to make hole too small and gradually expand it to it grips HID light firmly and balanced fore and aft. Then epoxy it to original reflector for firm attachment. The shrouds may need some trimming to to fit all way down original reflector. Obviously, this is lots of custom work since this light configuration never left factory production-line of any sort. So you're not going to be able to find finished product that's plug-n-play unless you buy someone else's custom work. In which case, be careful and inspect everything extremely closely, especially aim of light. |
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May 29th, 2018, 04:03 PM | #145 | |
ninjette.org newbie
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Quote:
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May 29th, 2018, 05:21 PM | #146 |
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Do what the original DIY did... make a mounting bracket out of ABS and swap the aiming hardware off the reflector onto the plate. Lemme search a bit and see if I can find it.
Don't buy BKmoto, it's crap quality |
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May 29th, 2018, 05:23 PM | #147 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Simon
Location: Adelaide
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Yea, I found some other guides online that suggested other products - have bought some decent ones and was going to print myself a mounting bracket. Thanks for confirming that's the way to go!
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May 29th, 2018, 05:32 PM | #148 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
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And for those that want the opposite of plug & play, a project, here's a dump of the original DIY plus my comments on wiring and changes I made when I went through the process.
This will require going the extra mile to build your own mounting plate (skip the reflector completely) like the OP and I did, perhaps also doing your own wiring harness. I apologize for wonky formatting, but the copy I have was in a series of .mht files, which the file server doesn't seem to like. So I've "printed" to PDF and combined them all into one in landscape to give the biggest image sizes I could think of easily/offhand. For what it's worth, my retrofit is still happy 7 yrs and 20,000mi later (not a fraction as much riding as I should've done). I did have to replace the mounting plate because it started to warp from getting a little too hot on all-day rides in 100+ weather. If you can source it, I'd strongly recommend polycarbonate/lexan instead of PVC/ABS (more temp-resistant) The headlight does bounce a little, but no worse than the stock did, given the whole assembly is floating from fairing instead of being frame-mounted.
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