Info on Area P Exhaust Systems for the 2013 Ninja 300

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by old3

When will the tuners be ready to ship?

Been ready since 13th. See post #193.

[old3]

Originally Posted by kbryant

Been ready since 13th. See post #193.

Any charges for later versions of tunes or for adjustments to a tune?

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by old3

Any charges for later versions of tunes or for adjustments to a tune?

Absolutely none what-so-ever.

[diwhiteii]

Originally Posted by kbryant

Absolutely none what-so-ever.

Hi Kerry,

So I decided to go with the power commander 5 because I had to use an old store credit. I also got the quick shifter, rev limiter increase, and the ignition timing just for a liitle fun. I know on one of the post that there will be maps made for the power commander 5. Who would I get them from you guys or fuel moto? I want the stainless ultra high mount when it becomes available for pre-order. Also when will the pre-orders start?

Thanks,

David

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by diwhiteii

Hi Kerry,

So I decided to go with the power commander 5 because I had to use an old store credit. I also got the quick shifter, rev limiter increase, and the ignition timing just for a liitle fun. I know on one of the post that there will be maps made for the power commander 5. Who would I get them from you guys or fuel moto? I want the stainless ultra high mount when it becomes available for pre-order. Also when will the pre-orders start?

Thanks,

David

Hi David - PC5 maps will be available from both Area P & Fuel Moto. A "Pre-order" program for the exhaust systems will be announced next month (noted in post #197).

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by kbryant

Introductory prices will range from $525.00 for the Full Standard Mount System with Stainless Steel Muffler - To $595.00 for the Full Ultra High Mount System with Carbon Fiber Muffler.

We'll also be offering a special "pre-production" sale exclusively for ninjette.org members on these systems. We'll be trying a new program that will be more flexiable than a normal GB (that can be quite cumbersome to administrate). We'll be working out the details next month. Systems are currently scheduled for release in February as previously indicated.

Just a thought, any chance on giving a "group discount" on products to members of Ninjette - like a typical group buy discount but that could be applied to any product/purchase, at any time, maybe one per member or something.

I currently have a quiet core full system on my ninjette which I love, and have been thinking about the possibility of getting your slip on for my 6R instead of another brand when I mod the bike in support of what your guys do for the small bike communitiy. No one here is ever going to group buy that product though.

Anyways, just a thought . Keep up the great work .

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by sharky nrk

Just a thought, any chance on giving a "group discount" on products to members of Ninjette - like a typical group buy discount but that could be applied to any product/purchase, at any time, maybe one per member or something.

I currently have a quiet core full system on my ninjette which I love, and have been thinking about the possibility of getting your slip on for my 6R instead of another brand when I mod the bike in support of what your guys do for the small bike communitiy. No one here is ever going to group buy that product though.

Anyways, just a thought . Keep up the great work .

Thank you for the comments. No sorry, we won't be offering a program like your suggestion. But I believe the program we will be announcing for the introduction of the new 300 exhaust systems will be a good one and continue to show our support of ninjette.org members.

If you would like to send a PM on which 6R you have and year, I can see what options may be available to you.

[sharky nrk]

Originally Posted by kbryant

Thank you for the comments. No sorry, we won't be offering a program like your suggestion. But I believe the program we will be announcing for the introduction of the new 300 exhaust systems will be a good one and continue to show our support of ninjette.org members.

If you would like to send a PM on which 6R you have and year, I can see what options may be available to you.

10-4, PM sent.

[ionized]

Hello. I'm curious when Fuelmoto/Area P may release some more R&D results. I am specifically interested in what benefit to the dyno curve the K&N pod filter may bring. I plan on going with the standard 18" quiet core, and am wondering if I should buy the pod filter or not. Obviously I am just being impatient since I have to wait for the exhaust anyhow lol. I received the fuelmoto FI programmer today and it looks like a very nice, high quality unit and nice connectors.

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by ionized

Hello. I'm curious when Fuelmoto/Area P may release some more R&D results. I am specifically interested in what benefit to the dyno curve the K&N pod filter may bring. I plan on going with the standard 18" quiet core, and am wondering if I should buy the pod filter or not. Obviously I am just being impatient since I have to wait for the exhaust anyhow lol. I received the fuelmoto FI programmer today and it looks like a very nice, high quality unit and nice connectors.

We currently have a bike scheduled for the Fuel Moto facility in mid-Feb. They will be conducting tests on our production systems in perfect air and with the K&N Filter Pod (airbox delete). We are confident that 40+ hp can be attained with the Area P exhaust, FI Micro Programmer, K&N Filter Pod, and Fuel Moto mapping. And thank you for the comments on the FI Programmer. It is indeed a very nice unit, and why we confidently offer a two year warranty with it and full on-going map support.

[kbryant]

Web page now up

http://www.areapnolimits.com/product...a-300-2013.php

[gsxrninja250]

@kbryant I saw on the page for the ultra hi mount you need a fender eliminator, and says you used the targa one, but I was wondering if the yoshimura eliminator would be usable? Also do we have to change the signals? Or can we use the stock ones on a eliminator?

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by gsxrninja250

@kbryant I saw on the page for the ultra hi mount you need a fender eliminator, and says you used the targa one, but I was wondering if the yoshimura eliminator would be usable? Also do we have to change the signals? Or can we use the stock ones on a eliminator?

Really could not say if the Yoshimura version would fit or not, since we only tried the Targa version (which was also the only one available at the time). They do look very similar, except for the turn signals. For turn signals, we utilized what Targa supplied in the kit, which are short stalks and obviously smaller turn signal assemblies. The Yosh kit shows it with oem turn signals which are much larger and may require fabricating somekind of bracket(s) to re-position them. There are going to be so many different fender eliminator kits on the market, it simply isn't possible for us to try them all. But with the minor variences likely, it would appear to be something fairly easy to remedy. So all we can confirm is that the Targa kit fit perfectly and is a very nice kit for the money. We're not endorsing it as the only one per say (we purchased our kit), just the one we actually fit up and tried.

[cbzdel]

I thought I would post on here rather than email you so others can benifit from the answer. You set me up with a tuner for my M4 full exhaust system and K&N Panel Filter. I just ordered the K&N pod filter the "R-0990". Since you do not have a map for this yet, any idea what I should manually adjust my tuner to? Or should I just not even touch it until you have a chance to test it all out??

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

I thought I would post on here rather than email you so others can benifit from the answer. You set me up with a tuner for my M4 full exhaust system and K&N Panel Filter. I just ordered the K&N pod filter the "R-0990". Since you do not have a map for this yet, any idea what I should manually adjust my tuner to? Or should I just not even touch it until you have a chance to test it all out??

No problem. I would really hesitate to speculate until we test it later next month. The bike we have lined up for our partner Fuel Moto to test with, is going to have R&D done with our production system, airbox removed and R-0990 pod installed along with several other additional tests. We have 8 maps now to work with, but the airbox delete will be dramatically different. So you have two choices:

1. Wait until we get it on the Dyno and write perfect maps without guessing or assuming later next month. Or...

2. Go ahead and install it, I can send you a richer map base for you to try. Then you can tell me what it's doing or not doing, and we can work from there.

But again, it would be much more accurate and less risky if you wait until we actually test it later next month.

[cbzdel]

Hmmm.. Maybe I will just wait to on the install until you get the base map made for it then, then I can "set it and forget it" then both of us dont need to hassle with the back and forth on a questionable map.

For the IAT sensor are you just going to drill a hole in the filter for it?

I installed a smog block off already and it fixxed my decel popping issues.. I messaged you about this and you said my popping could be from a poor gasket or smog.. My problem was both I removed the smog and it still popped.. Then after re-torquing the system bolts the popping stopped..

As for the crank case breather would that also just need a mini air filter on it? I may need to relocate it higher to keep it dry, I ride ALOT in the rain so I want to keep everything dry. Or does the crank case vent need to be plumbed into the air filter as well?

[Aufitt]

Which system would be less likely to interfere with VERY high (50mm+ back/50mm+ up, track use only) rearsets?

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

For the IAT sensor are you just going to drill a hole in the filter for it?

As for the crank case breather would that also just need a mini air filter on it? I may need to relocate it higher to keep it dry, I ride ALOT in the rain so I want to keep everything dry. Or does the crank case vent need to be plumbed into the air filter as well?

We'll be confirming the IAT location once we bring the bike back in for check-fitting the production systems and testing/mapping with the airbox removed.

Yes, a small crankcase breather element will need to be installed onto the crankcase vent or vent tube. No, you do not want to vent it directly into the K&N air filter pod.

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by Aufitt

Which system would be less likely to interfere with VERY high (50mm+ back/50mm+ up, track use only) rearsets?

Hard to say. That's alot (almost 2" both ways). It would depend on the backing plate design and clevis location for the brake slave cylinder. Most likely the standard mount. The ultra high mount of course has tigher tolerances inherent with this design. But there is some adjustement with both systems. We always try to keep rearsets in mind, as do the rearset designers themselves. But there are so many different combinations of rearsets, it's simply not possible to check them all.

[cbzdel]

Would it be possible NOT to install the IAT sensor into the back of the K&N pod filter? I would really like to use a outwear pre-filters on my pod filter.

http://www.outerwearsracing.com/prod....asp?prod=4128

But the IAT sensor would require cutting a hole into the pre-filter.. Can I just zip tie the sensor to the frame or something similar?

[cbzdel]

My last post did not show up.. In short.. Is there a way NOT to mount the IAT sensor inside the pod filter? That would allow me to use a pre-filter..

I would really like to use a pre-filter to calm my nerves about riding in the crappy weather here in WA

[choneofakind]

As a user of a K&N R-0990, unless you plan on going swimming with your ninjette, you'll be fine using it in rainy weather. I'm not sure why using a pre-filter over the outside of the R-0990 would restrict you from putting your IAT in the incoming air stream

[cbzdel]

I would have to cut a hole in the pre-filter to fit the iat sensor..

either that or extend the wires so there is enough wire to route the sensor to different location..

It would be nice if I could route it around and mount it to the front side of the filter, between the throttle bodies..

I dunno I just feel more comfortable with my open element filters if I have a pre-filter on them, I have them on all my vehicles which have aftermarket air intake systems.

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

My last post did not show up.. In short.. Is there a way NOT to mount the IAT sensor inside the pod filter? That would allow me to use a pre-filter..

I would really like to use a pre-filter to calm my nerves about riding in the crappy weather here in WA

As indicated, when we get the bike back in, we will then confirm where we will mount the IAT Sensor. It may not have to be mounted on/in the filter at all. But we really don't guess at these kinds of things. We do thourgh R&D first, then we'll release the results.

Utilizing a filter charger or pre-filter wrap would not affect how it may be mounted anyway. Simple enough to cut a small slit and insert it so it closes around it anyway. Keep in mind the filter chargers are primarily for heavy dust areas and may also affect the intake flow (and the mapping) from a "non-wrapped" filter. They are not water proof (just "water repellent"). You are much better off simply paying attention to the condition of your filter, clean and oil it properly and you'll be fine. The filter assembly is not fully exposed to the elements. It's reasonably protected within the centerline of the bike, seat, tank, side covers, legs/knees, etc.

[cbzdel]

gotcha.. just getting a head of myself on planning.. i tend to do that with parts on the way haha

I ripped out my air box over the weekend since my bike is having some down time.. What a pain to remove it!! Its really crammed in there!!

[stablgr]

Apologies in advance if this has been asked before, but I'd like to know if the ultra high mount will work with the SV Racing rearsets, and that there are no clearance issues. Anyone tried this combo yet?

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by stablgr

Apologies in advance if this has been asked before, but I'd like to know if the ultra high mount will work with the SV Racing rearsets, and that there are no clearance issues. Anyone tried this combo yet?

See post 219 above. If you would like to send me a few pictures of the rearsets installed with your stock pipe, I'd be happy to give you an opinion. sales@areapnolimits.com

[stablgr]

Thanks Kerry. I haven't actually got the rear sets yet. I'm still in the planning stages of the mods I'd like to do and wanted to check compatibility before committing to any purchases.

[diwhiteii]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

Hmmm.. Maybe I will just wait to on the install until you get the base map made for it then, then I can "set it and forget it" then both of us dont need to hassle with the back and forth on a questionable map.

For the IAT sensor are you just going to drill a hole in the filter for it?

I installed a smog block off already and it fixxed my decel popping issues.. I messaged you about this and you said my popping could be from a poor gasket or smog.. My problem was both I removed the smog and it still popped.. Then after re-torquing the system bolts the popping stopped..

As for the crank case breather would that also just need a mini air filter on it? I may need to relocate it higher to keep it dry, I ride ALOT in the rain so I want to keep everything dry. Or does the crank case vent need to be plumbed into the air filter as well?

I installed my IAT sensor on the top of my left pod filter because the length of the wiring is short. Here a pic of it. Another pic of my autotune O2 sensor and sneak peak of the bike coming together, just waiting on carbon fiber and Area P Ultra high Stainless Exhaust.

[psych0hans]

Thanks for the update David, is there any chance you can take pics in better light? I can't see the sensor at all in your pics.

[EsrTek]

you don't see the sensor he added to the air filter??? You can see 1 filter has a device on it, while the other doesn't.. that device is it.

[choneofakind]

diwhiteii it looks like it's coming along nicely! I see lots of aftermarket stuff on that bike.

Your solution to the IAT sensor is the same that many of the EcoTrons users have done. I chose to place mine in the runner so I didn't have to place the sensor in the filter (that way it was easier if I ever decided to go back to the airbox) but some have done it the same way you did without any issue.

Looking good.

[cbzdel]

Originally Posted by diwhiteii

I installed my IAT sensor on the top of my left pod filter because the length of the wiring is short. Here a pic of it. Another pic of my autotune O2 sensor and sneak peak of the bike coming together, just waiting on carbon fiber and Area P Ultra high Stainless Exhaust.

what made you choose 2 small filters over the single one large one?

[diwhiteii]

Originally Posted by cbzdel

what made you choose 2 small filters over the single one large one?

I like the look of two filters over the single and I have dual filters on my Ninja 250R. Those were my only reasons.

[old3]

Originally Posted by diwhiteii

I like the look of two filters over the single and I have dual filters on my Ninja 250R. Those were my only reasons.

Looks good, will filter removal for cleaning require the side fairing come off?

[choneofakind]

@kbryant,

Maybe I missed it, but last I read, you guys were still waiting on your tuner for maps to use with the K&N Pod filters. Have you guys gotten that all sorted out?

I've been reading more about clean air from the airbox vs dirty air from pod filters and which gives more power vs consistent fueling. It's all rather confusing and theoretical. I was just wondering what you guys have found on that front in the form of dyno results and AFR changes when switching to pods.

[kbryant]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

@kbryant,

Maybe I missed it, but last I read, you guys were still waiting on your tuner for maps to use with the K&N Pod filters. Have you guys gotten that all sorted out?

I've been reading more about clean air from the airbox vs dirty air from pod filters and which gives more power vs consistent fueling. It's all rather confusing and theoretical. I was just wondering what you guys have found on that front in the form of dyno results and AFR changes when switching to pods.

Hi Chris,

Primarily in posts 144 & 210 - We're the actual designers, manufactor and "Tuners". But our partner with the FI Micro Programmer (Fuel Moto) will be getting our first production system later next month and will doing the next level of testing/mapping with the airbox removed & filter pod installed, as well as more maps created in better air. We'll then have a really large base of maps to work with. Although the 300 will adjust somewhat to changing conditions, it does not have a "closed-loop" system and/or wideband capacity (as stock/supplied). So we're creating alot of map bases to work with from enviornment changes as well. We currently have 9 or 10 different maps, and that does not count the individual map changes we make for a person's particular enviornment or conditions. We have the bike lined up for Fuel Moto when we send them the first system later next month.

There is a dramatic difference in available intake volume & sometimes intake velocity between the oem box and filter pods. We did enough preliminary testing to determine that opening up the airbox and further new mapping yielded even better results. So we know the Filter Pod and correct mapping will yield further improvements as well. There's also obvious differences in temps (cool air/hot air), but let's try to keep it simply since we have a fairly simple intake design, in a non-ram air scenario There is a large difference in mapping the A/F curve between these. For a simple comparision, look at the differences between the 250 with/without the airbox. Carburated of course, but primarily on the main jet side of things, it's very common to go up 4 or 5 sizes. That's alot!

The filter pods don't have "dirty air" per say (or you better hope they don't...). You are correct when you say "It's all rather confusing and theoretical", but we try very hard to take most of the "theoretical" out of the equation through "less talking, more testing"

[choneofakind]

Very cool, thanks Kerry.

[diwhiteii]

Originally Posted by psych0hans

Thanks for the update David, is there any chance you can take pics in better light? I can't see the sensor at all in your pics.

Here is a better picture of the IAT sensor and a picture of my crankcase breather filter. Also just a FYI... I have a california model and needed to ground out the purge valve sensor and the air switching valve to fix the service light from remaining on and for the bike to run properly with my dynojet autotune.

[diwhiteii]

Originally Posted by old3

Looks good, will filter removal for cleaning require the side fairing come off?

Thanks. You will need to remove the side panels that attach right under the seat for cleaning, but not the main fairings. I have mine off because I am heading to Motion Pro tomorrow to have custom cables made for their revolver throttle kit and they need the bike stripped down, even the tank must come off.