August 11th, 2014, 10:54 AM | #201 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Anyone know how to install/remove the bushings on the very end (not the copper ones)? I dropped off several fork tubes at Traxxion Dynamics and they sent them back with those parts removed. There is a cut so they will probably flex over the end but I just want to be sure that doing so doesn't mess anything up. Also, are they directional? When should they be relaced? Many of them show imperfections in the textured surface. Do the copper ones slide right off? I'm trying to remember if I put them with the rest of my fork parts or if they were on the tubes when I dropped them off (removed everything I kmew how to remove). |
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August 11th, 2014, 05:26 PM | #202 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
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Hmm. never tore down my forks that far. I would think @dino74 would know more.
I'm guess the copper ones should slide right off. Might be a tad snug fit.
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October 15th, 2014, 09:45 AM | #203 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Question for everyone saying not to use thread locker on the bottom bolt:
I have an impact tool and extended hex adapters which are long enough to extract the bolt. I used this to do it without a bench vise or the partially-inserted axel trick. Is there any reason for me to avoid it? I simply don't want the thread locker contaminating my oil but the only concern I saw expressed was being able to get it out again in the future. Quote:
I tried to follow the Clymer manual this time and wanted to share a few notes. I had to reference this DIY more often than the Clymer manual Because they stupidly put the measurements in a table at the end of the chapter which you can't easily reference with oil all over your hands. They had tables at the beginning of the chapter and at the end and it didn't tell you what page or set of tables it was in! Next, they tell you to take the fork protectors off when there is absolutely no reason. I did for the heck of it and you probably need a second person (I pushed up with two thumbs while my brother pulled off from the top). Another issue is that they clearly call the lowers "sliders" but then call the fork tubes "sliders" when telling you to use oiled Saran wrap to get the seals on! I was very confused because there were no pictures and everything I could imagine would leave bits of Saran wrap stuck in the forks. What they meant was to use oiled Saran wrap to slip the seals over the tops of the fork tubes before sliding all the way down and driving them into the lowers/sliders. Lastly, there are NO useful pictures for determining the correct orientation of the seals. I took so long to assemble these that I could not be sure how they were oriented before they came apart. The only mention in he Clymer manual was saying that the "open end" should be oriented out. Uhh... which end is the "open end," geniuses? I had a hunch how they were supposed to be oriented based on how I remembered hammering them in the first time and yet the only end that looked more "open" than the other is the one I remembered going down/in the fork lower (exactly opposite to what they were telling me). Sure enough, one look here tells me that I was right and their advice was useless. At least as far as OEM seals go, the end with a flatter top and a slimmer groove goes up and the end with the wider groove and more open top goes in. |
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June 25th, 2020, 01:53 PM | #204 |
Clean Title? No Problem.
Name: Sean
Location: Knoxville
Join Date: Apr 2020 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 '11 Posts: 6
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Is that 12.2 oz split between both fork legs or is that per side?
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June 25th, 2020, 08:48 PM | #205 |
Clean Title? No Problem.
Name: Sean
Location: Knoxville
Join Date: Apr 2020 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 '11 Posts: 6
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I'm going to reply to myself to maybe help someone else out. I wanted to take a shortcut and just pour a set volume of fluid into the forks. I confirmed the volume per leg in this DIY is correct, however the aftermarket spring which I swapped out is considerably thicker and has more coils in 5mm less length, and DING DING DING.. displaces more fluid. Moral of the story is don't take shortcuts.
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June 25th, 2020, 09:27 PM | #206 |
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Name: AKA JacRyann
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Another way to measure is drop ruler down from top and measure distance to top of fluid.
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June 26th, 2020, 06:35 PM | #207 |
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Name: C
Location: Hawaii
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250 Posts: 472
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I did mine with a wire bent to 130mm inserted into the fork.
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June 29th, 2020, 09:46 AM | #208 |
Clean Title? No Problem.
Name: Sean
Location: Knoxville
Join Date: Apr 2020 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 '11 Posts: 6
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So I used my vacuum brake bleeder and just measured 130mmm of length from the end of the end of the tube. Stick that in and pump out all the excess. Made it a super quick job.
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December 15th, 2021, 02:00 PM | #209 |
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Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
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December 15th, 2021, 02:03 PM | #210 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Anthony
Location: Vinita, Ok
Join Date: Sep 2021 Motorcycle(s): 07 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 343
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For part a very nice post but
Never every used steel wool on your fork tube that a very bad way to ruin them actually a chrome finish it needs to be super smooth you're supposed to use a cotton wheel and buff them. |
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November 3rd, 2023, 05:04 PM | #211 |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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My spare forks were freshly rebuilt nearly a decade ago and stored vertically inside my accessory building for several years before being wrapped in plastic and moved into a storage unit for a couple more. I’m not the one who retrieved them but I think they were stored horizontally (not sure but they were definitely transported that way). Anyway, I unwrapped the plastic only to find them swimming in clear fork oil.
Not sure if it leaked from one, both, top or bottom, but it makes me think back to the weird thread tape or whatever it was that I removed from the bottom bolts and never replaced. Since then I’ve seen many more EX250J fork rebuilds I still seem to be the only one to ever encounter it. Guess I’ll be rebuilding these AGAIN. Tempted to add some teflon tape this time since I really think that’s what mine had from the factory. Last futzed with by CZroe; November 4th, 2023 at 08:23 AM. |
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November 6th, 2023, 08:19 AM | #212 | |
Fighting Texas Aggie '05
Name: Neil
Location: Hutto, TX
Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '07 ZX6R, '08 Versys, '09 250R Track, '93 F2/F3 Track Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
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November 6th, 2023, 10:53 AM | #213 | |
CPT Falcon
Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
I should order new bolts when I rebuild them again, just in case. *shrug* I have to order new crush washers anyway. Could adding plumber’s tape hurt? That said, I don’t recall any leaks when they were stored vertically and only found it after they were stored horizontally… so perhaps they didn’t even leak out the bottom. I’ve been looking for them about as long as we had the storage unit and assumed they’d been stolen since I didn’t wrap them up and put them in there. Regardless, it’s time to get this them back on the bike! Thanks. |
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