front wheel bearings

snot · May 1st, 2014, 06:24 PM

Any tricks for getting the bearings out of the front rim?

I searched and could not find any info.
Thanks in advance!

Motofool · May 1st, 2014, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snot

Any tricks for getting the bearings out of the front rim?

I searched and could not find any info.
Thanks in advance!

Heat + gravity

alex.s · May 1st, 2014, 06:48 PM

so if you pour enough liquid nitrogen onto the bearing, the cold will make it contract.

then just give it a little tap and presto. bearing is now dust.

snot · May 1st, 2014, 07:09 PM

Tried a heat gun, hammer and socket. No movement. I may need to take to a shop.

Motofool · May 1st, 2014, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snot

Tried a heat gun, hammer and socket. No movement. I may need to take to a shop.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Replaci...wheel_bearings

http://www.dansmc.com/wheelbearing.htm

snot · May 2nd, 2014, 06:06 AM

Anyone know if a press can be used or if the wheel tapers on the inside?

jkv45 · May 2nd, 2014, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snot

Anyone know if a press can be used or if the wheel tapers on the inside?

Pretty sure a slide-hammer style bearing puller is what you want. Harbor Freight has one that I've heard is adequate for occasional use.

Heating up the wheel should help.

When it's time to install the new bearings, put the bearing in the freezer for a while and heat up the wheel. The thermal expansion/contraction difference will make it a lot easier to install.

CZroe · May 12th, 2014, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkv45

Pretty sure a slide-hammer style bearing puller is what you want. Harbor Freight has one that I've heard is adequate for occasional use.

Heating up the wheel should help.

When it's time to install the new bearings, put the bearing in the freezer for a while and heat up the wheel. The thermal expansion/contraction difference will make it a lot easier to install.

I've looked at puller after puller at HF and haven't seen one that looked appropriate. Which one?

alex.s · May 12th, 2014, 03:17 PM

there isn't much lip to get blind bearing pullers on the inside with. i've never had any luck without tapping it out from the opposite side

CZroe · May 12th, 2014, 03:59 PM

What I don't get is how heating the wheel hub supposedly expands the chamber the bearing fits into. Expands the metal? Sure. I get that. At the atomic scale, the atoms expand and, thus, so does the material, but that wouldn't make the chamber expand as I understand it.

The way I visualize it is that it only helps if the aluminum is somehow magically only expanding outward from the bearing and, thus, widening the hole/loosening the fit. In reality, I would expect it to expand in ALL directions which means it would also expand in, putting MORE pressure on the bearing (especially considering that the bearing has also expanded outward however little). A heated ring would increase in outer diameter but the inner diameter would only increase to make room for the circular expansion (it doesn't just expand in/out). A wheel hub has enough material everywhere else that I don't see that phenomenon applying.

I don't doubt that it does make it easier, but is that really why? Could it be that the metal is simply softer and conforming to the forces you apply? If so, then it may cause you to lose more aluminum with the steel bearing than you would have otherwise.

alex.s · May 12th, 2014, 04:45 PM

when you heat both metals up (bearing and the thing its touching) they expand even from the inside and push on each other, slightly compressing the touching surfaces into each other. when they cool, they contract and theres a bit of a gap until the metals smoosh back together from other compression and oxidation and crap. the amount it moves is not very much but with such tight tolerance, just a little bit makes it loose enough to free up a bit

......maybe

snot · May 12th, 2014, 04:55 PM

Took mine to the dealer, $60.00 this included mount an balance of new rubber.

mgentz · May 14th, 2014, 05:57 PM

I bought a wheel bearing puller to get mine out. $70 one time charge. Now I can do any bike I ever need to.

May 1st, 2014, 06:24 PM	#1
snot sammich maker Name: snot Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '15	front wheel bearings Any tricks for getting the bearings out of the front rim? I searched and could not find any info. Thanks in advance!

May 1st, 2014, 06:48 PM	#3
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	so if you pour enough liquid nitrogen onto the bearing, the cold will make it contract. then just give it a little tap and presto. bearing is now dust. __________________________________________________

May 12th, 2014, 03:17 PM	#9
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	there isn't much lip to get blind bearing pullers on the inside with. i've never had any luck without tapping it out from the opposite side __________________________________________________

May 12th, 2014, 04:45 PM	#11
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	when you heat both metals up (bearing and the thing its touching) they expand even from the inside and push on each other, slightly compressing the touching surfaces into each other. when they cool, they contract and theres a bit of a gap until the metals smoosh back together from other compression and oxidation and crap. the amount it moves is not very much but with such tight tolerance, just a little bit makes it loose enough to free up a bit ......maybe __________________________________________________

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May 1st, 2014, 07:09 PM	#4
snot sammich maker Name: snot Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '15	Tried a heat gun, hammer and socket. No movement. I may need to take to a shop.

May 2nd, 2014, 06:06 AM	#6
snot sammich maker Name: snot Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '15	Anyone know if a press can be used or if the wheel tapers on the inside?

May 12th, 2014, 03:59 PM	#10
CZroe CPT Falcon Name: J.Emmett Turner Location: Newnan, GA Join Date: Apr 2009 Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F Posts: A lot.	What I don't get is how heating the wheel hub supposedly expands the chamber the bearing fits into. Expands the metal? Sure. I get that. At the atomic scale, the atoms expand and, thus, so does the material, but that wouldn't make the chamber expand as I understand it. The way I visualize it is that it only helps if the aluminum is somehow magically only expanding outward from the bearing and, thus, widening the hole/loosening the fit. In reality, I would expect it to expand in ALL directions which means it would also expand in, putting MORE pressure on the bearing (especially considering that the bearing has also expanded outward however little). A heated ring would increase in outer diameter but the inner diameter would only increase to make room for the circular expansion (it doesn't just expand in/out). A wheel hub has enough material everywhere else that I don't see that phenomenon applying. I don't doubt that it does make it easier, but is that really why? Could it be that the metal is simply softer and conforming to the forces you apply? If so, then it may cause you to lose more aluminum with the steel bearing than you would have otherwise.

May 12th, 2014, 04:55 PM	#12
snot sammich maker Name: snot Location: West Ohio - in the kitchen Join Date: Feb 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2013 white 300, 09 KLX 250 SF, 09 thunder blue 250(traded) Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '15	Took mine to the dealer, $60.00 this included mount an balance of new rubber.

May 14th, 2014, 05:57 PM	#13
mgentz Board Member Name: ... Location: WI Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): 250R (street), 250R (dirt) Posts: A lot.	I bought a wheel bearing puller to get mine out. $70 one time charge. Now I can do any bike I ever need to.