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Old December 17th, 2014, 02:31 PM   #1
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Headlight Issues

My high beam doesn't work. Hasn't worked since I put my bike together after crashing. Bulbs are fine. It's not coming from the headlight unit since I just put on zx-6r headlights and I still have the same issue. Only one headlight fuse so that's not it.

No apparent issue at the connectors, which is the only wiring I can see. The rest of it is wrapped up nice and tight in the wiring harness. What are the chances the wiring is screwed up inside the harness? What other things should I check for?

Or maybe I should just wire it over to the low beam, re-aim it, and call it good
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Old December 17th, 2014, 02:44 PM   #2
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if you have a multimeter, check the power going to the bright bulb. maybe it will give you a hint? it could be the brights switch itself is not triggering? i would think if you screwed up the harness that you might have more issues than just the brights
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Old December 17th, 2014, 03:28 PM   #3
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I've been meaning to get a multimeter
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Old December 17th, 2014, 04:32 PM   #4
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i think harbor freight sells one that works reasonably well for $3
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Old December 17th, 2014, 05:56 PM   #5
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Or really splurge and get the $6 one.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 07:25 PM   #6
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I went ahead and got something nicer from radioshack. Figured it might be useful at some point after I finally transfer to a 4-year school.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 07:51 PM   #7
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Good for you! I still use my Radio Shack multimeter that I bought in 1983. (It's a knockoff of a Fluke).
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:27 PM   #8
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If you get a really crappy one and you have it on ohms instead of volts and you try to measure voltage, it might break it. And if you have it set to measure AC instead of DC (vice versa), it also might break it. Just letting you know, being someone who's made this mistake before Now I've got one with diodes and ****, so it's not really a problem.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 09:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcj13 View Post
Good for you! I still use my Radio Shack multimeter that I bought in 1983. (It's a knockoff of a Fluke).
a lot of the older fake flukes are actually real flukes built by fluke just without the fluke name then sold to others to have their name slapped on so it could actually be a real fluke just branded to tandy. i have several flukes. they're honestly the best you can buy.
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 03:28 PM   #10
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I was lazy and left my bike apart for a few days lol.

Anyway so I finally tested stuff. Definitely no current going to the high beam bulb itself. Not sure how to check the switch. I took it apart and tried to at least get any current reading but got nothing, even when not specifically checking the high beam side so I'm likely doing something wrong.
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 03:30 PM   #11
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But really though, I'm feeling lazy and considering just wiring it over the low beam side so I could just have both sides running all the time automatically. It's not like I've had the high beam for the past year anyway. I don't really miss it at this point.
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 06:13 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
I was lazy and left my bike apart for a few days lol.

Anyway so I finally tested stuff. Definitely no current going to the high beam bulb itself. Not sure how to check the switch. I took it apart and tried to at least get any current reading but got nothing, even when not specifically checking the high beam side so I'm likely doing something wrong.
OK, so no current going through the bulb. How about voltage at the bulb? With the high-beam switch on, do you get a reading between the hot contact that plugs into the bulb and chassis ground?
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Old December 24th, 2014, 01:46 PM   #13
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Do you have a shop manual?
• Set the dimmer switch to high beam position.
• The low beam [A] and high beam [B] headlights should
go on.
• The blue high beam indicator light (LED) [C] should go on.
If the high beam headlight and/or blue high beam indicator
light (LED) does not go on, inspect or replace the following
item.
Headlight High Beam Bulb (see Headlight Bulb Replace-
ment in the Electrical System chapter)
Meter Unit (see Meter Unit Inspection in the Electrical
System chapter)
Dimmer Switch (see Switch Inspection in the Electrical
System chapter)
• Turn the engine stop switch to stop position.
• The low beam and high beam headlights should stay go-
ing on.
If the headlights and blue high beam indicator light (LED)
does go off, inspect or replace the following item.
Headlight Relay in Relay Box (see Relay Circuit Inspec-
tion in the Electrical System chapter)
• Turn the ignition switch to off.
• The headlights and blue high beam indicator light (LED)
should go off.
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Old December 24th, 2014, 03:01 PM   #14
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I don't have an issue with the indicator lights and the headlight bulb is new.

Haven't had time to work on it during the day and I figured people wouldn't appreciate me turning my bike on and off constantly around midnight.
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Old December 25th, 2014, 10:34 AM   #15
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No voltage at high beam bulb
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Old December 25th, 2014, 11:08 AM   #16
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check the switch
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Old December 29th, 2014, 01:22 PM   #17
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Assuming the 300 is wired the same as the NewGen 250, the high beam power leaves the switch on the red/black wire in the 8-pin plug. It also goes through the connector where you move the wire for the diode kit. Check for voltage in both of those places to narrow down where you're losing power.
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Old December 31st, 2014, 04:24 PM   #18
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No voltage at switch. Don't have a diode kit.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 07:23 AM   #19
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I want these lights! Better start saving now

Nevermind if prices stay the same ill just buy them next month...

Wonder if both lights work low beam an brights? Hope I don't have to get my dad to do no fancy wiring ( he always gives me that look )
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo View Post
I want these lights! Better start saving now

Nevermind if prices stay the same ill just buy them next month...

Wonder if both lights work low beam an brights? Hope I don't have to get my dad to do no fancy wiring ( he always gives me that look )
No, they work like the 300; one side low, one side high. Just better looking and a tad brighter. You'll have to go with the bixenon retrofit if you want dual lights.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:36 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
No, they work like the 300; one side low, one side high. Just better looking and a tad brighter. You'll have to go with the bixenon retrofit if you want dual lights.
Boo... Boo. Hmmmm im gonna have to call my dad and get him to figure out how to do this on the cheap
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:48 AM   #22
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Boo... Boo. Hmmmm im gonna have to call my dad and get him to figure out how to do this on the cheap
Maybe try something like this? http://zx6r.com/guides/1354-dual-hea...onversion.html Of course then you run into the problem of the lights not being aimed correctly since that won't change when you hit the switch.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:04 PM   #23
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They can point where ever they please as long as they are cut on
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:09 PM   #24
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They can point where ever they please as long as they are cut on
Yes you can change their focus but they will still stay in that position so you have to choose a dual high beam position or dual low beam position. Or keep it the same and be somewhere in between, but I guess that's already like leaving the high beams on.
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Old January 3rd, 2015, 08:13 PM   #25
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Surely you don't think I'd be the type to leave my high beams on just so I can have both lights on all the time do ya guilty as charged
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Old January 5th, 2015, 07:37 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfkrocks View Post
No voltage at switch.
Again, I'm looking at the NewGen's wiring diagram, and just assuming they're the same... The low beam forks off the blue/yellow wire just before the switch, then the switch makes or breaks the high beam circuit. If the low beam is getting power but the switch isn't, then the problem must be between the low beam fork-off and the switch.
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Old September 24th, 2016, 10:11 AM   #27
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I forgot I made an entire thread for this. The source of the problem was a cut wire. Easy fix once I figured that out. Only took me 2 years to discover that
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